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you havent specified where the switch becomes loose and inoperable .......it is in the plug point or the base of the unit
if it is on the mains then change the point
it it is on the base of the unit ...
then give some padding to the base where the plug is connected then
it will start working////////
i hope this suggestion will solve your problem
the handle has noting to do with the heater what you need to check on is the connection from the power supply if the connection is alright then you will have consider the element it is the heat provider connected to the wire it means that it is weak it need to be replace with a better one the element is in silver colour you can get it in any technical store/shop around you.
I bought the same horrible, cheap, dishonest unit. They disingenuously say to rinse and boil once. I've boiled the water at least twelve or thirteen times. They also brag it doesn't need immersion (not because such units don't require immersion since that will damage the unit and they don't need immersion) but because of their superior spirituality. Let them answer for dishonesty in 120 years.
Does the unit shut off only before the water boils, or does it shut off and on periodically? I just fixed my friend's WK200 Braun kettle. His would shut off and on, eventually coming to a boil. During normal operation, when you press the switch, it is connected to a rod which at its other end (ie the bottom of the kettle) is able to close the circuit allowing the current to pass through the heating element. In my friend's case, the contact had become weak - I just had to slightly bend the metal pole a little bit to provide a better contact when the switch was depressed. To repair the unit, I only needed a couple of torx screwdrivers and a voltmeter to measure continuity. (note, if you bend the metal pole too much, then the circuit will always be closed even when the switch is OFF - make sure you test for an open circuit when the switch is OFF)
To state the obvious, the steam sensor has failed. Unless you are quite adventurous, and confident dealing with electrics, there's nothing for it but to get a new kettle (unless the kettle is still within warranty, in which case you should be entitled to a replacement of course).
Hi Bruce or anyone else that has this problem.
I had this problem too and after pulling the base off I found that the switch was ok but the problem lay with the two bi-metallic thermal overload switches that are connected to the heating element. I managed to reset them both and now the kettle works fine. This can become an issue if you have accidently boiled the kettle dry once in it's life. Best of luck.
I use a solution of vinegar and water (1:1) and boil it in the kettle, to remove mineral deposits from the metal heating surface (We do the same with the percolating coffee maker and run it through several times)... It seems to take any residual tastes out of the unit and possibly also cleans the plastic parts that it touches (I believe it does).
By the way... WHO thought it was a good idea to heat apple cider in an electric kettle. Sorry but WOW
Coffee grounds go in the top. (i use a filter paper also.) Install baffle with stem up. Assemble top to empty bottom section. pour boiling water into top. I use 4 cups water, 2 scoops chickory coffee. Let water trickle down into bottom. I put mine back through 3 times, black as tar. That is the advantage of this machine. I will never use another.........