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I can tell you how to get access to the glass panel, although I cannot remember how easy it is to remove the glass itself: First remove the lifting lid by unplugging the jack plug connector at the back, then riase the lid to vertical position, pull the plastic tab in the middle of the hige towards you and wiggle the lid upwards so that it comes out. Then pull off the keypad label plate, then gently pull off the control panel (which has two ribbon cables attached) by sliding it forwards from back to front of the printer. Disconnect the ribbon cables from the control panel (they pull off) and thread the cables back through their retaining clips on the top cover. Now you can remove all FIVE retaining screws (Torx T-10 driver required) from the top cover and lift it off, leaving the ribbon cables in situ. You can then turn the top cover over and work on removing/ repairing the glass. I would say it s not worth bonding - just get a new piece of glass.
Check the ribbon. On mine sometimes tha ribbon gets caught by the impact wires and snags. The printer stops functioning when this happens. Remove the ribbob carefully; pull it free from the impact wires. Turn the printer off and on again; it should work.
Yes, the code is caused by toner getting into the laser unit. The laser unit likely only needs to be cleaned out. To do so, turn the machine of with the red rocker switch on left side of the machine. You will need to remove the front cover and the brown cover behind it. The mechanical counter is plugged into the brown cover so be careful not to damage the wires. The laser unit is the black plastic case you will see behind the brown cover. Be sure to remove the necessary screws and connectors. Be extra careful of the ribbon cable, it kinks easily and the contacts are easily damaged. The Laser unit will slide out, and you can remove the screws holding the top cover on. After removal, clean the interior of the case and mirrors. Do not use any liquid to clean it, preferrabley canned air and a lint free cloth. After cleaning, reassemble, turn the machine back on, and test.
Okay...i had the same problem when I replaced the original ribbon that came with my Classic 12. I think it was the ribbon that came with the typewriter.
Anyway, on the ribbon carrier, there are two sets of metal prongs on top of one another. If you get the ribbon behind both of them, it will pop up and not go back down or won't come up at all.
You have to get the ribbon between the two sets of prongs. There's isn't much room and you have to kind of pull the bottom of the ribbon taught and slide it down from the top.
It isn't easy the first time, but after you get it, you won't forget.
As for your ribbon not feeding...take the spools out and make sure the pegs that go into the holes in the spools are rotating when you type. This is what moves the spools. Then make sure you're getting the pegs in the hols when you put the spools back in.
Also, make sure the ribbon isn't twisted anywhere and that it's threaded correctly. Both spools should look identical with the ribbon coming out of the top toward the carrier.
To ensure you have the correct ribbon, got to the Office Depot online store and do a search for Smith Corona Classic 12 and you will get a pretty generic, double-black ribbon that fits and works perfectly...and is so soaked in ink you can reuse each side three times. I don't recall the brand name, but the box is grey with red lettering.
You have already answered you own question. The ribbon wire holds about 30 wires in it. they all have to be seated in perfectly or it won't work for you. Take it to a computer store and see if they can re-seat it for you. Probably 30 bucks for labor to fix.