Question about Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

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I have a Goodman GMS9/GCS9 Gas-Fired Warm Air furnace and it's no

The Induced Draft Blower starts to run but there is no furnace operation. The Integrated control module diagnostic LED is flashing 3 flashes. The possible causes listed in the manual say:

1. Pressure switch hose blocked, pinched or connected improperly.
(I took of the front cover of the furnace and looked at this rubber Pressure switch hose and it looks fine to me)

2. Blocked flue and/or inlet air pipe, blocked drain system, or weak induced draft blower.
(I went outside and checked the flue and inlet and they both look fine, with no visible blockage. I inspected the drain system that comes out of the side of the furnace and that also looks fine, with no visible problems. The Induced Draft Blower sounds fine when it kicks on too, sounds strong with no audible odd or weird noises eminating from it.

3. Incorrect pressure switch setpoint or malfunctioning switch contacts.
(I don't have any idea how the pressure switch setpoint could be off since I have never adjusted it and I have no idea how to adjust it or what would even be a proper adjustment of it. As far as malfunctioning switch contacts, I don't know why they'd be malfunctioning, the furnace is in a clean dry furnace room with little or no dust and very little moisture. Visibly, all of the contacts look great.

4. Loose or improperly connected wiring.
(I don't know how any of the wiring could be loose or improperly connected because the furnace has run for 3 years with no problems)


This problem all started about 4 weeks ago when the furnace would run, but never for long enough to get the house warmed up to the adjusted thermostat tempurature of 69 degrees. It was keeping the house heated at around 65 degrees at that time. Now it has entirely stopped heating whatsoever, with the blower turning on and then the Integrated control module LED goes from steady on to THREE quick flashes, meaning that there is a problem. The flames never ignite and then the blower eventually turns off. I pulled the drain tubing from the trap to see if any water is being held back. I blew into it and it seemed clear, although the trap is filled with water, but it looks like it's supposed to be because the trap drains at the top.
I also disconnected the pressure switch tubing at the pressure switch and by blew through it slightly to see if any debris was blocking the port. It seemed clear too.

The gas flow is definintely on to the furnace and I have just recently installed a new filter.


Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm layed off and I really don't want to pay for a service call here.

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For anyone who finds this question in the future - It's the condensate drain hose for the heat exchanger.
Get a bucket and some towels handy and unplug the lowermost flexible rubber hose - if you do this right after the furnace has stopped, water will come gushing out. Mine was continually plugging up causing my furnace to stop, like yours - the L shaped plastic tube that dips into the drain trap on the outside of the unit (the thing filled with water) was too close to the bottom of the trap. I took it out, shortened it by 1/2 an inch (keep the same bevel that's on there!) and I haven't had a problem since. Blowing out the line would only hold things off for a few weeks before it started acting up again.
Cost me $90 for a service call the first time since visually it looks fine and I checked the upper hoses that go to the pressure switch :)
Learn from my service call!

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

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Take the hose connected to the pressure off the heat exchanger end and turn unit on and **** on the hose and make a vacuum to the pressure to make it connect if the unit starts the vacuum switch could be getting weak and needs changed

Posted on Feb 23, 2009

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Remove the rubber vacuum hose and make sure the hose is clear. Then stick a thin wire down the fitting of the heat exchanger and dislodge anything that may be blocking it. After i did this, I reconnected the hose, and the furnace fired up like it should. I talked to my service guy shortly after. He says that Goodman painted the inside of the motor and after a couples of years the paint flakes off and clogs the opening. Just saved myself probably $150. To everyone who posted solutions, thanks for the help.

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

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Also check to see if hose from bellow switch to draft inducer has water inside. if hose is to long can trap condensate

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

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SOURCE: How to manually relight a

You should NEVER attempt to relight manually this furnace. Serious burns could be the result. This furnace has an electronic ignition and should light by itself. If it does not light you may have a bad ignitor. These are usually around 30-50 US dollars.

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

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SOURCE: need help with a goodman gmt070 furnace

it may be clogged at the barbed fitting on the induced draft motor where the pressuer switch tubing connects. take a paper clip and **** it out make sure you can stick it thru freely till you can feel the Inducer wheel then reconnect and try again.

Posted on Nov 05, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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That thang might be sensing a lazy flame. In other words the flames took too long in the board's opinion to quit sensing the flame. Yall probably need to do pressure tap on the gas valve.
Here is a realistic look at goodman fault codes and what to check fer and I am assuming you are not a tech and don't know this already and am hoping it helps:


Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.

Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.

Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.


Read three LED flashes to mean your furnace has an open pressure switch circuit or it has an induced draft blower operating. Check the pressure switch hose of your furnace for blocks or an improper connection. Also, look for blockages in the flue, and tighten any loose wiring.

Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.

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See eight LED flashes as meaning an igniter circuit problem due to a bad igniter or an igniter connected improperly. Replace the bad igniter or check the ground wiring, making necessary corrections.



Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.

Read continuous flashing on the LED to mean your furnace has a reversed polarity of 115 volts. Turn off the power and correct the wiring polarity after reviewing the wiring diagram.

Now here is how it should all go down:



Bottom dollar: it all goes back to type of gas, the initial setup, the pressure tap. and how it is wired up to begin with.
This will give you an idea where to start I hope.

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1
1 FLASH
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