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Define "doesn't work" -- dead, runs but won't heat, etc.
There is not a reset button.
Not everyone understands that Sears Kenmore is a house brand and Sears never built anything, but sourced from many different vendors. The first three digits in the model are producer identifiers with 110 being the code for Whirlpool.
IF it came from Whirlpool, and depending on the specific model (there are hundreds of models) then it might have a fusible link that will open (blow) due to overheat. If this is the problem two things are required: 1) replace the bad part (check with a volt/ohm meter) and, 2) correct the problem that caused it.
Air flow is far and away the main problem. This can be a mashed vent, long vent, clogged vent, wrong size vent or a combination of all those. Also, there can be foreign objects in the dryer, especially the blower. Excess fabric softener coats the lint screen mesh with a clear coating that is not obvious but slows air flow.
SEARS/KENMORE Range/Stove/Oven Manufacturers Sears is a department store. They do not build their own appliances. They contract with many different manufacturers to build all of their appliances. This chart will help you determine who actually built your appliance, then you can choose the manufacturer from the charts on this page.
The first 3 digits of the model number determine who built your Sears / Kenmore Unit. This can be helpful if looking for repair or replacement parts.
Your model is manufactured by the following if your units first digits starts with:
The blinking "clean light" is a common problem with some of the Kenmore and Whirlpool models dishwashers. The problem is usually attributed to water supply temperatures being too low when filling. Apparently, there are some issues with the temperature sensing circuits in some dishwashers that causes an error code to be generated if a certain water temperature is not achieved in a specified time interval (this time may differ between models). There is a reset sequence that you can try to clear the fault. Push the NORMAL WASH then HEATED DRY buttons in that sequence two to three times. The unit will enter diagnostics mode, but can be stopped by pressing the CANCEL button. This will clear any existing faults and should return the dishwasher to normal operation. To keep the fault from returning, it is recommended that you run your hot water faucet in the kitchen until it runs hot BEFORE you start the dishwasher.This will heat the water in the supply line for the dishwasher (most dishwashers are fed from the kitchen sink supply line). The theory is that if you fill the dishwasher with hot water from the start of the wash cycle instead of the cool water that is normally in the lines (especially if you have a hot water tank located far away from the kitchen), this should satisfy the requirements of the temperature sensing circuits. If the fault reappears, there should be a tech sheet located inside the lower panel under the door that explains what the fault is. The flashing light will be a series of flashes, followed by a pause. If you indeed have a component problem, it will depend on the number of flashing lights in the sequence. Refer to the tech sheet to determine WHAT component is affected and how to troubleshoot.
Sounds like safety temp switch is opening then resetting when cooled down. Clean out vent hose all the way outside. If you have a wet vac put the vac hose on the blower side and blow out hose if it is real long or replace hose
Nothing you did wrong! Probably needs a new heating element. Prices vary by model. Call Sears/Kenmore parts center nearest you. Tell 'em you need a heat element for your dryer. Be sure to provide your dryer's model number.
Unplug your appliance first before attempting repairs! Safety first and always!
There should be a button on the machine with a padlock symbol. Hold it down for 4 seconds to unlock it. If you want to lock it again, hold it down for 4 seconds to turn it on.
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