Question about Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washer sparks at outlet then gets no power

There is no power to the washer. When I unplug then plug it back in, there is a small spark at the outlet, a flash of the control lights and a beep, then again no power. This happened out of the blue, there was no event that seemed to cause it. Does anyone have a clue how I can fix this? The washer is 2.5 years old and has been operating perfectly since I got it. It is not on an extended warranty.

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  • 2 more comments 
  • David Del Real Feb 23, 2009

    Yes, it is an Oasis 110.2707 top loading washer. Thank you!

  • David Del Real Feb 23, 2009

    Thanks for the try but that wasn't the problem. I removed both pumps and check them both. No blockage!



    I think the problem is the user interface or the mother board. When I unpluged the user interface the machine seemed to start but then stopped but did not lose power. When I repugged in the user interface and pugged in the power the machine lost power again. This makes me think it is the user interface, what do you think ? Is there any way to test both the user interface and the mother board?

  • David Del Real Feb 24, 2009

    Yes the impeller seems to spin freely. The machine was not in use when it began to fail. It had no water in it. We were just using it for the first time after a few days of non-use. I'm going to try replacing the user interface board unless you have a test for the user interface board and the mother board.

  • Ron Coons
    Ron Coons May 11, 2010

    ???? is this perhaps an OASIS, mashine?? toploading no center agitator????

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 2,651 Answers

Heres what i think is the issue. sounds as if you have something lodged in hte pump assembly. to correct this unplug the unit, and while standing in front of unit leant in over to the left side. scoop out as much wateras possible.the bottom ofthe unit is open and youll findthe drain pump in the back bottom of right side of tub.after removing as much water as possible, remove the pump hose from the tub and the pump will release with (3) 5/16" screws. almost sure that you will find something in that pump!!!

Posted on Feb 23, 2009

  • Ron Coons
    Ron Coons Feb 23, 2009

    were you sure to look inside the pump impeller and make sure it spins freely???? debris will lock the impeller from spinning although there was nothin in the hose.

  • Ron Coons
    Ron Coons Feb 24, 2009

    if your able to "pop" hte main top assy, 2 clips perhaps 2-3 inches form each side between the top and front panle. there is a techsheet/trouble shooter taped to the inside of thefront panel

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1 Answer

When I plug MY washer into the outlet it sparks and it read ub and keep flashing on the panel


Check your outlet by plugging something that works properly into the outlet. If it works right, then the problem is a short in your washer. If it still sparks when you plug something in, there is a problem with the outlet itself. Get a qualified person to check out and /or the outlet.

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I have DeWalt3750 psi pressure washer, its been long time since I used it, now that I wanted to use it, I can not start it. I already changed the oil and filled it up with new oil but still can not start,...


Here is the long answer with everything we learned while using a power washer twice a day for years::
This assumes you did not turn power washer over or on its side to drain oil, or dirty oil will flow into carburetor requiring complete carburetor cleaning.

It sounds like could be one of the problems listed below or a combination of those things.
1) The exhaust is partially blocked. Check the screen covering exhaust port for carbon and dirt build-up. High-speed exhaust air must pass freely. We finally broke the exhaust screen out with a screwdriver to get our machine going one day.
2) Gas is not flowing freely to carburetor > under gas tank, find the rubber hose connected to carburetor. Pull off rubber hose and make sure gas flows freely. You can use this hose to drain gas tank of old gas ... and then put in fresh gas.
3) Carburetor is partially gummed up and engine cuts off when gas flow slows down. Buy some gum out, and then don't store power washer with gasoline in the tank. Or put additive in gas when storing machine.
4) The choke is letting in too much gas or not enough gas. Try different adjustments. The choke-lever on our power washer got so bad that we could not set throttle at full open or the machine would die. We still use the machine at 2/3 throttle, and then start it each time using WD-40 as described below.
5) Dirty air filter that won't let engine breath enough air to keep up with combustion. Take off air filter and see if problem persists.
6) The spark coil is going bad?? Change spark plug to see if problem persists. Is spark plug wire pushed all the way onto the spark plug?

Now the nitty gritty: we're gonna start that thing right now
7) Take off air filter. Spray WD-40 directly into carburetor. Yes, we use WD-40 every time to start my power washer, and we use the washer twice a week.
Spray in the WD-40, Pull the engine cord. The engine will fire on WD-40. Guaranteed.
Once it starts, keep spraying WD-40 directly into carburetor to keep engine going.
If engine will not fire and keep going on WD-40, then your spark is suspect.
If your engine fires and runs on WD-40 but dies without it, then your gas supply or carburetor are suspect
8) Carburetor problem >>> try Gum out >>> and then take machine to small engine repair shop
9) Spark ... take out spark plug. Put spark wire back on. Hold spark plug by spark wire. Touch metal threads of spark plug to metal opening where plug came out. Metal to metal. Pull back start cord and look for spark between the metal.
If you have no spark, then spark coil is bad >>> take machine to small engine repair shop

Add a comment if you need more help

Nov 28, 2010 | Dewalt 3800 PSI Pressure Washer

1 Answer

I have a pressure washer at work that has good spark and starts when I put gas in the carburetor.But it wont stay running. I have the gas turned on but it doesn't seem to be getting to the carb. It's...


Here is the long answer with everything we learned while using a power washer twice a day for years:: It covers the things you already tested, but doesn't hurt to repeat. Your problem is actually #8 on list below.

It sounds like could be one of the problems listed below or a combination of those things.
1) The exhaust is partially blocked. Check the screen covering exhaust port for carbon and dirt build-up. High-speed exhaust air must pass freely. We finally broke the exhaust screen out with a screwdriver to get our machine going one day.
2) Gas is not flowing freely to carburetor > under gas tank, find the rubber hose connected to carburetor. Pull off rubber hose and make sure gas flows freely. You can use this hose to drain gas tank of old gas ... and then put in fresh gas.
3) Carburetor is partially gummed up and engine cuts off when gas flow slows down. Buy some gum out, and then don't store power washer with gasoline in the tank. Or put additive in gas when storing machine.
4) The choke is letting in too much gas or not enough gas. Try different adjustments. The choke-lever on our power washer got so bad that we could not set throttle at full open or machine would die. We still use machine at 2/3 throttle, and then start each time using WD-40 as described below.
5) Dirty air filter that won't let engine breath enough air to keep up with combustion. Take off air filter and see if problem persists.
6) The spark coil is going bad?? Change spark plug to see if problem persists. Is spark plug wire pushed all the way onto the spark plug?

Now the nitty gritty
7) Take off air filter. Spray WD-40 directly into carburetor. Yes, we use WD-40 every time to start my power washer, and we use the washer twice a week.
Spray in the WD-40, Pull the engine cord. The engine will fire on WD-40. Guaranteed.
Once it starts, keep spraying WD-40 directly into carburetor to keep engine going.
If engine will not fire on WD-40, then your spark is suspect.

If your engine fires and runs on WD-40 but dies without it, then your gas supply or carburetor are suspect

8) Carburetor problem >>> try Gum out >>> and then take machine to small engine repair shop

9) Spark ... take out spark plug. Put spark wire back on. Hold spark plug by spark wire. Touch metal threads of spark plug to metal opening where plug came out. Metal to metal. Pull back start cord and look for spark between the metal.
If you have no spark, then spark coil is bad >>> take machine to small engine repair shop

Nov 22, 2010 | Honda Pressure Washer PSI 3000

1 Answer

It starts but it shuts off immedially.


Here is the long answer with everything we learned while using a power washer twice a day for years::

It sounds like could be one of the problems listed below or a combination of those things.
1) The exhaust is partially blocked. Check the screen covering exhaust port for carbon and dirt build-up. High-speed exhaust air must pass freely. We finally broke the exhaust screen out with a screwdriver to get our machine going one day.
2) Gas is not flowing freely to carburetor > under gas tank, find the rubber hose connected to carburetor. Pull off rubber hose and make sure gas flows freely. You can use this hose to drain gas tank of old gas ... and then put in fresh gas.
3) Carburetor is partially gummed up and engine cuts off when gas flow slows down. Buy some gum out, and then don't store power washer with gasoline in the tank. Or put additive in gas when storing machine.
4) The choke is letting in too much gas or not enough gas. Try different adjustments. The choke-lever on our power washer got so bad that we could not set throttle at full open or the machine would die. We still use the machine at 2/3 throttle, and then start it each time using WD-40 as described below.
5) Dirty air filter that won't let engine breath enough air to keep up with combustion. Take off air filter and see if problem persists.
6) The spark coil is going bad?? Change spark plug to see if problem persists. Is spark plug wire pushed all the way onto the spark plug?

Now the nitty gritty: we're gonna start that thing right now
7) Take off air filter. Spray WD-40 directly into carburetor. Yes, we use WD-40 every time to start my power washer, and we use the washer twice a week.
Spray in the WD-40, Pull the engine cord. The engine will fire on WD-40. Guaranteed.
Once it starts, keep spraying WD-40 directly into carburetor to keep engine going.
If engine will not fire and keep going on WD-40, then your spark is suspect.
If your engine fires and runs on WD-40 but dies without it, then your gas supply or carburetor are suspect
8) Carburetor problem >>> try Gum out >>> and then take machine to small engine repair shop
9) Spark ... take out spark plug. Put spark wire back on. Hold spark plug by spark wire. Touch metal threads of spark plug to metal opening where plug came out. Metal to metal. Pull back start cord and look for spark between the metal.
If you have no spark, then spark coil is bad >>> take machine to small engine repair shop

Add a comment if you need more help

Nov 01, 2010 | Karcher 2500 PSI Pressure Washer

1 Answer

Can not start the engine


Here is the long answer with everything we learned while using a power washer twice a day for years::

It sounds like could be one of the problems listed below or a combination of those things.
1) The exhaust is partially blocked. Check the screen covering exhaust port for carbon and dirt build-up. High-speed exhaust air must pass freely. We finally broke the exhaust screen out with a screwdriver to get our machine going one day.
2) Gas is not flowing freely to carburetor > under gas tank, find the rubber hose connected to carburetor. Pull off rubber hose and make sure gas flows freely. You can use this hose to drain gas tank of old gas ... and then put in fresh gas.
3) Carburetor is partially gummed up and engine cuts off when gas flow slows down. Buy some gum out, and then don't store power washer with gasoline in the tank. Or put additive in gas when storing machine.
4) The choke is letting in too much gas or not enough gas. Try different adjustments. The choke-lever on our power washer got so bad that we could not set throttle at full open or the machine would die. We still use the machine at 2/3 throttle, and then start it each time using WD-40 as described below.
5) Dirty air filter that won't let engine breath enough air to keep up with combustion. Take off air filter and see if problem persists.
6) The spark coil is going bad?? Change spark plug to see if problem persists. Is spark plug wire pushed all the way onto the spark plug?

Now the nitty gritty: we're gonna start that thing right now
7) Take off air filter. Spray WD-40 directly into carburetor. Yes, we use WD-40 every time to start my power washer, and we use the washer twice a week.
Spray in the WD-40, Pull the engine cord. The engine will fire on WD-40. Guaranteed.
Once it starts, keep spraying WD-40 directly into carburetor to keep engine going.
If engine will not fire and keep going on WD-40, then your spark is suspect.
If your engine fires and runs on WD-40 but dies without it, then your gas supply or carburetor are suspect
8) Carburetor problem >>> try Gum out >>> and then take machine to small engine repair shop
9) Spark ... take out spark plug. Put spark wire back on. Hold spark plug by spark wire. Touch metal threads of spark plug to metal opening where plug came out. Metal to metal. Pull back start cord and look for spark between the metal.
If you have no spark, then spark coil is bad >>> take machine to small engine repair shop

Add a comment if you need more help

Nov 01, 2010 | Karcher G3025OH Pressure Washer

1 Answer

My pressure washer is 3 years old, never had a problem with it until now. It runs for 2 seconds only on choke. It will not start or turnover at all with out the choke on. Please help, I miss my...


It sounds like could be one of the problems listed below or a combination of those things.

1) The exhaust is partially blocked. Check the screen covering exhaust port for carbon and dirt build-up. High-speed exhaust air must pass freely. We finally broke the exhaust screen out with a screwdriver to get our machine going one day.

2) Gas is not flowing freely to carburetor > under gas tank, find the rubber hose connected to carburetor. Pull off rubber hose and make sure gas flows freely. You can use this hose to drain gas tank of old gas ... and then put in fresh gas.

3) Carburetor is partially gummed up and engine cuts off when gas flow slows down. Buy some gum out, and then don't store power washer with gasoline in the tank. Or put additive in gas when storing machine.

4) The choke is letting in too much gas or not enough gas. Try different adjustments. The choke-lever on our power washer got so bad that we could not set throttle at full open or the machine would die. We still use the machine at 2/3 throttle, and then start it each time using WD-40 as described below.

5) Dirty air filter that won't let engine breath enough air to keep up with combustion. Take off air filter and see if problem persists.

6) The spark coil is going bad?? Change spark plug to see if problem persists. Is spark plug wire pushed all the way onto the spark plug?

Now the nitty gritty of starting that bad boy and making you happy again!!!!

7) Take off air filter. Spray WD-40 directly into carburetor. Yes, we use WD-40 every time to start my power washer, and we use the washer twice a week. Spray in the WD-40, Pull the engine cord. The engine will fire on WD-40. Guaranteed.

Once it starts, keep spraying WD-40 directly into carburetor to keep engine going.

If engine will not fire and keep going on WD-40, then your spark is suspect.
If your engine fires and runs on WD-40 but dies without it, then your gas supply or carburetor are suspect

8) Carburetor problem >>> try Gum out >>> and then take machine to small engine repair shop

9) Spark ... take out spark plug. Put spark wire back on. Hold spark plug by spark wire. Touch metal threads of spark plug to metal opening where plug came out. Metal to metal. Pull back start cord and look for spark between the metal. If you have no spark, then spark coil is bad >>> take machine to small engine repair shop

Let us know how it comes out!!

Oct 15, 2010 | Honda Black Max 2600 PSI Pressure Washer

1 Answer

ENGINE WILL NOT START


My power-washer suffers from same problem after sitting idle.

After paying for a new carburetor, I discovered how important it is to drain the gas if washer is going to sit idle.

Another time, we had a problem with the screen covering exhaust outlet. Deposits from the engine + dirt clogged the screen. Although it's not the solution for everybody, we broke the screen open with a screwdriver and the machine ran fine after that.

Small gas engines require 3 things. Compression, spark, and fuel. Take out spark plug. Put finger over spark plug hole and pull cord or push starter. Do you feel suction? If yes, then you have compression.

If machine will not turn over at all, then your motor might have run out of oil. Power washer needs oil in 2 places. It needs oil for the engine just like a lawn mower. Oil plugs are located low on each side of engine. It doesn't hurt to change oil, but do NOT NOT turn small engine upside down or oil will get into carburetor which requires removal and cleaning. I learned that the hard way.

The power washer also needs oil for the pump head. This is the box attached to front of engine. Usually 10W20 non-detergent is a good choice. Oil is usually about half way up inside pump head.

Now hook spark-wire back to spark plug. Hold spark plug in hand. Touch threads of spark plug to metal spark plug opening. Now pull cord or push starter. Do you see sparking in the spark plug gap? If yes, then you have spark. Put new spark plug in anyway. If no, then you need parts from small engine repair service.

Spark plug is in. Take off air filter so you have access to carburetor air intake. Put fresh gas in tank. Use starter spray or WD-40 as a starting accelerant. Set your choke to start engine. Spray starter fluid into carburetor opening and pull cord or push starter. The engine should fire up on the starter fluid. If engine doesn't fire, then try setting choke in different positions. If engine doesn't fire up then carburetor is suspect.

If engine fires but dies, keep spraying starter fluid into carburetor to see if you can keep it going that way ... and then move choke in different positions ... you might need extra hands for that maneuver.

If machine turns on, but dies when filter is put back, then filter might be clogged. Time for a new filter anyway.

Finally check the fuel filter and fuel line below the gas tank. It usually has a hex head bolt. Loosen bolt and see if fuel is able to fall out of tank. Loosen rubber fuel line at both ends and see if fuel is flowing. This will tell you if fuel can get to carburetor.

Usually these measures get the thing going or tell you if professional service is needed.

Sep 29, 2010 | Briggs Stratton 020273 Elite Series...

1 Answer

When I start a load it will start filling with water then start beeping and flashing "F1". I have to press restart about three times before it takes. Any ideas what the problem is.


Keypad/User Interface Failure

A fault code of "F" then "1" flashes when there is a primary control failure.
You will need to replace the machine/motor control assembly.
Page 14 and 16, in the manual link below will help you with this.


HE Top Load Washers
Models:
F1 Error Code
WTW6200S WTW6300S WTW6400S WTW6600S WTW6700T
MTW6300T MTW6400T MTW6500T MTW6600T MTW6700T
Serial Numbers: CT01 - CU52
There are four areas of concern that can cause the F1 Error Code. Each area must be sequentially addressed to ensure
that the diagnosis is correct and the proper repair is completed.
A) Air leaks in the air pressure (switch/sensor) hose.
a. Inspect the hose for cracks, pin-holes or loose connection.
b. Replace the hose and harness assembly (W10058730) if it is compromised.
B) Moisture in the air pressure (switch/sensor) hose.
a. Inspect the hose for evidence of water.
b. Replace the hose and harness assembly (W10058730) if water is detected.
C) Lint or flashing in the air dome hose connection port.
a. Inspect the air dome hose connection port for lint or flashing.
b. Use a small round device (small screwdriver) to ensure that there is nothing blocking the air dome outlet on
the tub.
D) The control needs to be replaced.
a. Replace the control only after you have completed steps A - C above, and verified that there are no issues
with the air pressure system.




F then 2 flashes when in:
Diagnostics Test mode if a stuck key is detected.
Standby mode if there is a user interface mismatch.
DISPLAY (Saved Code) EXPLANATION AND RECOMMENDED PROCEDURE

Console and Indicators
This test is performed when any of the following situations occurs during the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test:


None of the indicators light up No beep sound is heard Some buttons do not light indicators None of the indicators light up:
1. Perform steps in Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, and visually check that the P11 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control.
2. Visually check that the user interface assembly is properly inserted in the console assembly
3. If both visual checks pass, replace the user interface assembly.
4. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
5. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.
6. If indicators still do not light, the machine/ motor control has failed: Unplug washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly.
Plug in washer or reconnect power. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.

No beep sound is heard:
1. Perform steps in Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, and visually check that the P5 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual check passes, replace the user interface assembly.
2. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
3. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.
4. If replacing the user interface assembly failed: Unplug washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.


Some buttons do not light indicators:
1. Perform steps in Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, and visually check that the console electronics and housing assembly is properly inserted
into the front console. If visual check passes, replace the user interface assembly.
2. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
3. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.





To Access/replace the CCU:

#1

Unplug the Whirlpool Cabrio power cord from the wall outlet. Turn off the water supply to the washing machine. Pull the washer away from the wall so that you can access the screws behind the control console. Remove the hex head screws securing the control console to the washer with a nut driver. The screws are on the lower rear edge of the control console.
#2

Lift the control console up, and rotate the console forward so that the face of the console is resting on the top of the washer. Locate the interface board cable connector to the right of the plastic tube on the back of the console. Pull the end of the connector straight out of the control console. The primary machine control is the box that the plastic tube connects.
#3

Place small pieces of masking tape around the nine wires connecting to the primary machine console. Label the wire locations onto the masking tape with a pencil. Grasp each wire at the connector with your fingers, and pull the wires away from the primary control. Pull the plastic tube out of the primary control.
#4

Locate the nut toward the bottom of the primary control. Remove the nut with a nut driver. Lift the front of the primary control slightly, and slide it down to disengage the retaining clips. Pull the primary control out of the control console. Insert the new primary control into the control console. Slide the primary control up to engage the lower clips. Secure the primary control to the console with the single hex head screw.
#5

Push each of the wire connectors into their respective positions on the primary control until they lock into place. Push the plastic tube hose over the port on the right side of the primary control. Remove the small pieces of masking tape from the wires.
#6

Position the control console back upright on the top of the washer. Secure the control console to the washer with the three hex head retaining screws. Slide the washer back against the wall. Turn on the water supply and plug the washer into the wall outlet.


TECH SHEET LINK: http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208567037.pdf


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Sep 29, 2010 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...

1 Answer

When I start the washer sometimes it starts and then starts beeping and flashing F1. I can push pause and restart and it will work fine


Keypad/User Interface Failure

A fault code of "F" then "1" flashes when there is a primary control failure.
You will need to replace the machine/motor control assembly.
Page 14 and 16, in the manual link below will help you with this.


F then 2 flashes when in:
Diagnostics Test mode if a stuck key is detected.
Standby mode if there is a user interface mismatch.
DISPLAY (Saved Code) EXPLANATION AND RECOMMENDED PROCEDURE

Console and Indicators
This test is performed when any of the following situations occurs during the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test:


None of the indicators light up No beep sound is heard Some buttons do not light indicators None of the indicators light up:
1. Perform steps in Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, and visually check that the P11 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control.
2. Visually check that the user interface assembly is properly inserted in the console assembly
3. If both visual checks pass, replace the user interface assembly.
4. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
5. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.
6. If indicators still do not light, the machine/ motor control has failed: Unplug washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly.
Plug in washer or reconnect power. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.

No beep sound is heard:
1. Perform steps in Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, and visually check that the P5 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual check passes, replace the user interface assembly.
2. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
3. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.
4. If replacing the user interface assembly failed: Unplug washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.


Some buttons do not light indicators:
1. Perform steps in Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, and visually check that the console electronics and housing assembly is properly inserted
into the front console. If visual check passes, replace the user interface assembly.
2. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
3. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.



To Access/replace the CCU:

#1

Unplug the Whirlpool Cabrio power cord from the wall outlet. Turn off the water supply to the washing machine. Pull the washer away from the wall so that you can access the screws behind the control console. Remove the hex head screws securing the control console to the washer with a nut driver. The screws are on the lower rear edge of the control console.
#2

Lift the control console up, and rotate the console forward so that the face of the console is resting on the top of the washer. Locate the interface board cable connector to the right of the plastic tube on the back of the console. Pull the end of the connector straight out of the control console. The primary machine control is the box that the plastic tube connects.
#3

Place small pieces of masking tape around the nine wires connecting to the primary machine console. Label the wire locations onto the masking tape with a pencil. Grasp each wire at the connector with your fingers, and pull the wires away from the primary control. Pull the plastic tube out of the primary control.
#4

Locate the nut toward the bottom of the primary control. Remove the nut with a nut driver. Lift the front of the primary control slightly, and slide it down to disengage the retaining clips. Pull the primary control out of the control console. Insert the new primary control into the control console. Slide the primary control up to engage the lower clips. Secure the primary control to the console with the single hex head screw.
#5

Push each of the wire connectors into their respective positions on the primary control until they lock into place. Push the plastic tube hose over the port on the right side of the primary control. Remove the small pieces of masking tape from the wires.
#6

Position the control console back upright on the top of the washer. Secure the control console to the washer with the three hex head retaining screws. Slide the washer back against the wall. Turn on the water supply and plug the washer into the wall outlet.


TECH SHEET LINK: http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208567037.pdf


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Sep 09, 2010 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...

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