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Hi, i would suggest to check the faucet and make some adjustment for proper water flow and if you already replaced the faucet then this problem should not occur , i have had same problem and i had called A-General for this and they fixed easily all issues ,please take some help http://www.a-general.com
Step 2- Use 1/8" allen wrench to remove handle from faucet.
Step 3- Next it has a retaining ring to loosen, they make a little spanner wrench to fit this in all complete rebuid kits. And then you are ready to loosen the collar. To do this would be best to have a tool to grip the collar and not do damage to it. Some hardware stores carry rubber slip on's to fit on chanel locks pliers to avoid marking. Or if you have access to a strap wrench that will work.
Step 4- After collar removed, remove plastic cap and washer and ball. Seats and springs are located in valve bottom. Remove seats and springs with a small screw driver.
Step 5- Pull up spout to remove it to replace the o ring's on shaft. Also if it has a sprayer the diverter is in the base near the bottom. A little round brass diverter for sprayer.
Step 6-Install o rings for spout on base and diverter for sprayer if it has one. Plumbers grease will make install of spout easier to go back onto base. Now you can reinstall spout back onto base .
Step 7- Install new seat's and spring's with a small screw driver. Line screw driver to port and let spring and washer slide into place and press it gradually into place to seat in.
Step 8- Install new ball and notice that it has a groove in it to line up in valve.
Step 9- Install washer and plastic cap with slot in proper space.
Step 10- Install cap and tighten and adjust retaining ring to tighten up movement from spout from side to side. At this point you can turn water back on to make sure you have no leaks before tighting handle in place.
Step 11- Install handle and you're in business, and have rebuilt your very first faucet with knowledge to tackle the next plumbing project. Take your time and look closely how everything is put together, so you will know how it goes back together.
Disc faucets may have one or two handles. The water is controlled by openings in the two discs. When the discs are rotated to align, the water flows; when the discs are misaligned, the water shuts off. If the discs wear, the worn discs cause the faucet to leak. Simply turning the handles harder will not stop the leak.
To repair a leak in a two-handle disc faucet, turn off the water and remove the handle on the side that's leaking.
Use pliers to pull the disc assembly out of the faucet.
Beneath the disc unit is the seat assembly, or seal. Replacing this special O-ring may stop the leak.
You may need to install a whole new disc assembly for faucets that have been used over a long period of time. In this case, all moving parts of the faucet will have been replaced and should last as long as the original discs did. The parts of some disc units snap apart into a separate bonnet assembly and bottom cap.
To repair a leaking single-handle disc, turn off both the hot and cold water and remove the handle to expose the disc assembly. Take out the screws to lift the assembly out of the faucet.
You'll notice that beneath the disc unit are three O-ring seals. Though unlikely, water could be leaking between the unit and one of these seals. In this case, you may be able to stop the leak by cleaning the disc assembly and faucet body and installing a new set of seals. If that doesn't work, the entire disc unit must be replaced. This will renew all moving parts.
Replacing the unit is fairly simple. Place the three O-rings into their recesses in the bottom of the disc unit. Then install the unit and tighten the screws. Finally, replace the handle–and you're done!
hi, noisy taps can be numerous things 1st i would be checking the washers, if they are the neoprene (plastic) type squash the end with pliers so that it will fit tight in the spindal and won't jump up and down when you turn on the tap, if that doesn't work undo the airrator from the outlet and clean it out, it may have some forein matter in it restricting the flow
A leak in a washerless faucet usually indicates that the working parts need replacing. Often, prepackaged repair kits are available. Kits may contain all the necessary parts, or may include only the specific parts that need replacing. Follow the instructions for installing the replacement parts. Washerless faucets on tubs and showers are repaired in the same way as those on sink and washbasins.
Washer-type faucets work with a rubber or composition washer that closes onto a metal washer seat (Fig. 1). The washer can become hardened, worn or the seat wears, causing the faucet to leak. You can close the faucet tighter to stop the leaking temporarily, but this increases the internal damage to the faucet.
To repair the leak, first turn off the water. If there's a shutoff valve beneath the fixture, turn off the water at that point. Otherwise, turn it off at the main house shutoff valve in the basement, utility room, or crawlspace. Turn off the hot water supply at the water heater.
Take the faucet apart by removing the handle (this may not be necessary on some older faucets). Loosen the Phillips-head screw, which usually is beneath a decorative cap in the center of the handle. The cap either unscrews or snaps off when you pry it with a knife blade. If you must use pliers on decorative faucet parts, pad them with electrical tape or cloth to protect the finish. And take special care with the plastic parts found on many modern faucets. Next, lift or pry the handle off its broached stem. Unscrew the packing nut beneath the handle, exposing the rest of the stem. Remove the stem by rotating it in the "on" direction. It will thread out. Reinstall the handle if you have difficulty turning it (Fig. 1). Clean chips from the faucet cavity, but do not use harsh abrasives or a file.
Examine the stem. If the threads are badly corroded or worn, take it to your retailer and get a new stem to match. Clean the stem if it's dirty.
Now look at the washer, which is located on the lower end of the stem and held in place by a brass screw. If the washer is squeezed flat or has a groove worn in it, replace it–this should stop any dripping. Take the washer with you to your dealer to ensure an exact match in size and style. If the brass screw is damaged, too, replace it with a new brass screw.
The washer seat is located inside the faucet body. You probably can't determine if the washer seat is causing the leak just by looking at it. Any faucet that needs frequent washer replacement obviously has a damaged seat. The seat should either be refaced with a seat-dressing tool. A seat-dressing tool is not costly. Every home with washer-type faucets needs one. Use the tool according to the manufacturer's directions, placing it in the faucet along with the packing nut. Then rotate (Fig. 2) until the seat is smooth, and blow out the chips.
Some washer seats can be unthreaded and replaced. Check the faucet body with a flashlight to see if it has a square or hexagonal hole through its center or is slotted for a screwdriver; if so, it is replaceable. However, if the seat simply has a round hole through its center and no slots, it is not replaceable. In this case, dress it with a seat-dressing tool. To replace it, you'll need a faucet seat wrench, which comes with a combination of square and hex heads to fit most faucet seats. Turn the washer seat counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten (Fig. 3). Add a little silicone rubber sealant (RTV) or pipe joint compound around the threads of the seat before you install it to make it easier to remove during future repairs.
It's important to install the correct type of faucet washer (Fig. 1, bottom). A swiveling washer (C) is preferable to either (A) or (B). To install washer style (C), file the shoulder off the end of the stem, drill out the threads of the screw hole. Instead of rubbing against the seat as it closes, a swiveling washer closes with a straight-down, frictionless action – this allows it to outlast fixed washers.
Following this seat and washer service, your faucet should be like new. Put the parts back together in the reverse order of taking them apart. Spread a bit of petroleum jelly or silicone grease on the threads of the stem to lubricate the faucet's action.
If the faucet leaks around the stem rather than from the spigot, install new packing. You may want to install one of the newer nylon-covered or graphite-impregnated packings–their lubrication allows the faucet handle to turn more freely. Wrap one turn of this packing around the stem just beneath the packing nut (Fig. 1). Use three complete wraps if you're applying string-type packing. Some stems use O-rings, rather than packing. For these stems, replace the O-ring with a matching one to stop a leak. Hand tighten the packing nut, then tighten it another half-turn.
If you mean to turn off the water to the faucets, they should be installed under the sink where you can get at them. Usually they are put right on the end of the supply pipes coming up from the cellar.
The singing noise is due to high water pressure of your water system. It can eliminated by installing a pressure regulator at your main water lines. But for the meantime, you can minimize it by closing your main water valves and open it by two full turns. Hope this will help.
Yes, the diverter assembly is probably corroded or clogged shut. Garunteed its the problem on a 10 year old delta kitchn faucet.The diverter routes water from the spout to the sprayer when the sprayer is triggered.