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Sounds like a thermal overload on the motor. It will open and then have to cool down to close again. Check for it being dirty, or if it has a fan is it moving air? If you have it on an extension cord, the wire size may be too small. That is a pretty common problem with household equipment.
I can not find a Craftsman compressor with that model number anywhere so here are a couple things to look into. If the compressor fills to 70psi and keeps on running check the valve plate and piston/cylinder assemblies. Check that the valve reeds on the valve plate are not bent, broken or warped from heat. Then check that the wiper (oil less) or pistion rings (oil splash) are not damaged and that the cylinder wall is not scarred up. Any of these will let the compressor fill up to the point where the air pressure leaks past the valves or piston and won't fill any further. If the compressor fills to 70psi then shuts off the problem is in the pressure switch. Some have an adjustment screw or bolt to control when it turns on and shuts off. If you had a drop from 100 to 70 the springs may be weak or broke and you'll have to replace the switch.
You don't give much information about your compressor. I have had several smaller "oilless", 1/4 though 6 HP compressors and my experience is that as they age, the rings wear and they are not good at compressing air. You can get a rebuild kit for the machine but I think you will find the cost is about 1/3 the price of a new compressor. This is not unique to the Craftsman brand, BTW.
Hello babeaton, several things can cause that, but, the most common thing is the regulator. let it run again and right ofter it kicks off feel the power cord and see if it's warm to the touch, if so it likely is the regulator. Breakers operate based on the amount of heat generated from current running through the cord/wires.
Good luck my friend!
Your Craftsman model 919.165200, 5hp, 20 gallon compressor was designed to run on 115~120v 15amp. I believe that it was made by Campbell Hausfeld and is of the oilless single cylinder type. If however your compressor is oil lubed and has a motor /drive belt configuration it may be able to convert if there is a spec plate on the motor with alternate wiring diagram. Many high-end compressors like Rol Air, Jenny, Dewalt, etc with motor/belt drive have a switch selectable voltage, however one must still change the power cord when using 220v. Good luck with your projects and post again if your have other question.
If this is an oilless compressor you most likely need to replace the piston. The piston in oilless compressors are made of softer metals and will become distorted over time partially losing seal in the cylinder. It will have enough of a seal to build some pressure but not enough to reach the cut-off point.
Most oilless compressors suffer from a short lifespan of the cylinder and piston ring. Unplug the unit and remove the cover to expose the cylinder and rod. Move piston to topmost position and examine the condition of the cylinder. If you see scratches or worn areas close to the top of the cyl. then most likely will need rebuild kit. (Not expensive) If cylinder looks good, remove the head and check the reed valves for debris or broken reed. Reed valve plate is also available as part with gaskets. To extend the life of an oilless compressor try not to use it in dusty or sandy areas as the bottom of the unit is open and tends to **** dirt into cylinder. Good Luck.