Photo appears saturated green when set on manual setting
When shooting a hockey game yesterday I noticed when setting my custom WB photo was green, if set to an auto setting everything appeared normal, have looked through the menu setup and all appears normal. Color settings at zero etc. Where else can I look to be sure all settings are default? I have to have hit something - frustrating as I prefer using manual settings to auto Thanks in advance for your help.
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Re: photo appears saturated green when set on manual...
The image you selected for Custom WB is probably inappropriate - it may be shot somewhere else with different lighting or not enough of the image is white/grey. To do a proper Custom WB, take a picture of a white or grey card in the same lighting conditions as your subject. Go to menu, select Custom WB and choose that image. Then set your WB mode to Custom (if it's not already).
When you move to another site to take other photos, you must change your Custom WB image to another 'current' one. As the sun progresses through the day, your Custom WB will need to change as well. Auto WB will, in most conditions, be able to deal with changing light if you prefer not to keep updating your Custom WB.
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Yes you need to change the white balance (WB). If the pix are yellow it is because the white balance is set to daylight and you are shooting under tungsten(orange) and/or fluorescent (bluey green). Try the WB in auto but sometimes auto doesn't work perfectly, or if shooting under tungsten only change to tungsten etc If you want to be sure to get the correct balance shoot a white card slightly underexposed and correct it afterwards in whatever photo software you use. The blurry is caused by too low a shutter speed but if already at 1600 iso you cant go much higher without running into noise problems so use a flash gun on auto. I hope I have been of help but please do not hesitate to ask if you have any further questions.
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I doubt that formatting the card will do anything but, if you choose to do that, download any pics first since formatting will completely erase the card. Have you tried going back to "Auto WB" to see if your camera works properly that way? How about going into the menu and finding "reset" to get back to factory default settings?
The Fuji S2 sensor is noted for this red sensitivity. Here's a few different approaches to getting the shot with the S2, all of which require some experimentation.
1. Set the "Color" and "Tone" Function options to "ORG". Underexpose the shot. Progressively change the exposure compensation downward until when checking the histogram, the red channel does not show saturation at the high end. Advantages: this is the simplest approach to getting the picture. Disadvantages: the S2 already had a fairly limited dynamic range, and this will make things worse for the parts of the photo that are not red. For the surgical setting and use of a ringflash, this may not be much of a disadvantage, since a lot of the stuff of interest will be red, and ringflash illumination generally is of lower contrast than directional lighting.
2. Set the "Color" and "Tone" Function options to "ORG". Use a custom white balance. The idea here is to have the camera adjust the red channel sensitivity itself, and leave the blue and green channels alone. To do this, start with several sheets of white paper and a red or pink marker or highlighter. Scribble with the marker across a sheet, then use that to set a custom white balance. Take a test shot of the red stuff that has been problematic, and see whether the histogram for the red channel shows that there is no saturation at the high end. Repeat this with progressively more red or pink on each sheet used to set the custom white balance until you find the custom white balance that takes enough of the edge off the red channel response. Alternative: I just tried out making a gradient across an 8.5x11" sheet of paper going from white to about 30% red saturation. I can set more or less red adjustment in a custom white balance just by pointing the camera at different parts of the page. This seems to work OK for me. Advantage: can allow the full dynamic range of the sensor to be used. Disadvantages: the experimentation period is likely to take a while to get the best results, and the final images are unlikely to look completely natural.
3. Set the "Color" Function option to "B/W". Use a green or cyan filter on the lens to cut the amount that the red color channel contributes to the final image. Advantages: this is fairly simple as an approach. A similar post-processing technique can be applied to the photos that you already have, by nulling out the red channel contribution and desaturating the blue and green channels to produce a grayscale image. Disadvantages: you lose the color information entirely. Since much of what you want information about is colored red anyway, the organs are likely to appear quite dark when only taking the blue and green channel contributions to the image.
If it was set to one of the three manual WB settings & the lighting changed [fluorescent tube to incandescent light bulbs, this will happen & all you need to do is either re-WB with the new light, or set it to auto & let the camera figure it out itself.
You probably have the White Balance set to a setting other a
than "Auto White Balance" (AWB). On the top of the camera, above the exterior LCD panel, there is the "AF-WB" button. Turn the camera on--past "on" to the bent line. Press the AF-WB button once. On the left side of the exterior LCD panel there is a vertical, reticular box with the symbol of the selected setting for WB. Normally, the setting should be set to AWB. If it is not, turn the command dial at the back of the camera until "AWB" is showing. Try shooting again-the color should be better.
In the "auto" modes (green box, portrait, landscape, etc) the AWB is automatically set. In the "advanced" modes (P,Tv, etc) the WB is manually set for whatever light source you are using. The command dial may have been accidently turned to different setting. Hope this helps.
Click the AF-WB button and then with the wheel in the back of the camera select either K or any of the other settings. If set to K then you must go to your Menu (click menu button on back) then go to Color temp. and select your Kelvin tempature.
Hope that helps....
I know this contribution might be late, but try to avoid using the auto white balance. Use a tungsten mode and test each of its compensations until you get the desired result. I haven't had a similar problem on the 14n, but my D100 always places a magenta cast on white when shooting auto WB. I learned how to adapt the other WB modes to any situation.