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What often happens is the switch on the brake pedal gets knocked around by the driver's feet. This switch is suppose to be a safety switch to insure that your foot is on the brake pedal before it lets the starter work. On some models another safety switch is on the gear shift to insure that the vehicle is in Park or Neutral. If your vehicle is a stick-shift they sometimes put the switch on the clutch lever to make sure you do not try to start the car in gear.
you have to open the unit cover to remove the CD, its probably tried to eject it and its past the point that shows one in the slot which is causing the player to say NO CD , once opened, use great care in moving anything, and keep track of where everything goes,
The problem was two fold. First the diode D8 was blown and also the power supply chip was blown.
It is a tricky job, using surface mounted components so should not be attempted by a novice but I managed it.
I have a full set of photos etc if anyone cares to try it. I figured -
NOTHING to loose!! so what the heck and just went for it. Taking it
apart was fun! The surface mounted IC was easy to obtain and the total
cost was about £10 plus 4 hours panic labour. If anyone wants the info
just let me know and I will send the photos - but no promises - it
worked for me.I
figured out this ongoing problem. I purchased my TomTom One second
edition 1/20/07 for $395. I was 30 days past my warranty and had the
problem of unit not turning on. Green light came on when charged.
I opened my unit up and found the sw2 micro switch broken. If you press
too hard on the on/off button, this will eventually happen.
I couldn't find a replacement switch so I wired my own switch and it works now.
put units side by side and switch them both off. Plug in main unit, and using menu resort factory settings, then when it reboots, select language, and leave it there. Then connect the smaller unit and do the same thing (restore settings), they should then find each other.