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Intermittent heat from dryer. We have a stacking washer/dryer. The dryer (over the last few months) only heats up some of the time. When we monitored more carefully yesterday, it seems like sometimes, the heat comes on at the beginning of the cycle (we can see the pilot come on and the glow of the element), but some point later, the heat turns off for the remainder of the cycle. If we stop the dryer after the heat turns off and restart it, sometimes the heat will turn on initially. Sometimes, the dryer starts/restarts without the heat ever coming on. So is this a problem with the thermostat?? If so, is this easy to replace? So far, we've only removed a small panel at the rear right of the dryer to be able to see inside the dryer, and we can see that the pilot/element area is at the front left of the dryer. No idea where the thermostat is. Thanks for any help!

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5 Suggested Answers

Bgillespie
  • 89 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 90 Plus Series Electric Dryer trip

It sounds like the motor switch which is actually inside the motor on the model. It is very expensive to replace motor so it may not be worth fixing......
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Although I stick to the above statement; I have seen cases where a thermal fuse wire has come loose and perhaps sometimes touching(allowing heat) and sometimes not(hitting something blowing the breaker.... Check all wires on blower vent area... GOODLUCK!!!

Posted on Dec 17, 2007

Amigaman
  • 248 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer does not heat up and now wont start!

Recheck for 220 at plug. May have tripped breaker.
PULL PLUG FIRST!!
Remove rear panel. Check for continuity at white thermal fuse located near bottom center on the blower housing. It should close to 0 resistance. Also check hi-limits on side of heater housing. Also should be close to 0 resistance. If any are open, replace and clear venting. Also remove 4 screws on bottom of filter housing and pull bottom of housing out. Reach in and remove lint.

Posted on Nov 15, 2007

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Heating element

The model number you provided suggests that the lint screen is on top of the dryer, right? If so, the heating element can be accessed from behind the dryer by removing the rear panel. Of course, you should know this already since you stated you've already replaced the thermostat and fuse. The heating element is located on the right-hand side as you are looking at the dryer from the rear. There are TWO components on the heater housing. One is the high limit thermostat, one is a thermal cut-out. Are these the components you mentioned replacing? BOTH should read a short (0 ohms) when measuring resistance with the dryer turned off. If you haven't replaced both of them, double check to see if they are both good. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the ceramic heater connection. The thermal cut-out will be mounted to the heater box. Perform a resistance check of the heating element as well. Measure across the leads of the heating element at the ceramic terminal connection. It should read between 8 - 13 ohms if good. If your readings prove that the heater is bad, it can be removed by using a 5/16" hex drive. The heating element should slide out the bottom of the heater box housing. Sometimes removing the heater box, and then removing the heating element is easier.

Your dryer is also equipped with an electronic cycle control board under the control panel that goes bad from time to time. This also may affect the dryer heating circuits. Inspect the small circuit board for any obvious signs of burned components.

I hope this information is helpful to you. If I'm wrong about your dryer configuration, please post back with comments, so I can give you proper instructions.

CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer prior to making any resistance checks. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off.

PS I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, here. As a rule, I tell everyone this information because some are not as savvy as others.

Posted on Feb 24, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Intermitten Heat up

I would like to thank the ones who responded to giving me a 'hand' in repairing my dryer. I did like you said & changed out the coils & now the dryer is working like it should.

Posted on Apr 12, 2008

SOURCE: kenmore dryer. 80 series. 6 years old.

Sounds like there is dirt and or lint in the fire eye that is used to keep the gas on. Find that, clean it, and try again.

Posted on Apr 27, 2008

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