Question about Kenmore Dryers
It sounds like the motor switch which is actually inside the motor on the model. It is very expensive to replace motor so it may not be worth fixing......
Although I stick to the above statement; I have seen cases where a thermal fuse wire has come loose and perhaps sometimes touching(allowing heat) and sometimes not(hitting something blowing the breaker.... Check all wires on blower vent area... GOODLUCK!!!
Posted on Dec 17, 2007
Recheck for 220 at plug. May have tripped breaker.
PULL PLUG FIRST!!
Remove rear panel. Check for continuity at white thermal fuse located near bottom center on the blower housing. It should close to 0 resistance. Also check hi-limits on side of heater housing. Also should be close to 0 resistance. If any are open, replace and clear venting. Also remove 4 screws on bottom of filter housing and pull bottom of housing out. Reach in and remove lint.
Posted on Nov 15, 2007
SOURCE: Heating element
The model number you provided suggests that the lint screen is on top of the dryer, right? If so, the heating element can be accessed from behind the dryer by removing the rear panel. Of course, you should know this already since you stated you've already replaced the thermostat and fuse. The heating element is located on the right-hand side as you are looking at the dryer from the rear. There are TWO components on the heater housing. One is the high limit thermostat, one is a thermal cut-out. Are these the components you mentioned replacing? BOTH should read a short (0 ohms) when measuring resistance with the dryer turned off. If you haven't replaced both of them, double check to see if they are both good. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the ceramic heater connection. The thermal cut-out will be mounted to the heater box. Perform a resistance check of the heating element as well. Measure across the leads of the heating element at the ceramic terminal connection. It should read between 8 - 13 ohms if good. If your readings prove that the heater is bad, it can be removed by using a 5/16" hex drive. The heating element should slide out the bottom of the heater box housing. Sometimes removing the heater box, and then removing the heating element is easier.
Your dryer is also equipped with an electronic cycle control board under the control panel that goes bad from time to time. This also may affect the dryer heating circuits. Inspect the small circuit board for any obvious signs of burned components.
I hope this information is helpful to you. If I'm wrong about your dryer configuration, please post back with comments, so I can give you proper instructions.
CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer prior to making any resistance checks. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off.
PS I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, here. As a rule, I tell everyone this information because some are not as savvy as others.
Posted on Feb 24, 2008
SOURCE: Intermitten Heat up
I would like to thank the ones who responded to giving me a 'hand' in repairing my dryer. I did like you said & changed out the coils & now the dryer is working like it should.
Posted on Apr 12, 2008
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Hello friend, we appreciate your post!
It appears you have a laundry center FEX831CS0 and that your dryer is not working. Can you provide me more specific details? Is your dryer not heating, not turning on, or not completing a cycle? For instance did you notice any strange functions or odd noises prior to this issue? With this information I can better address the issue at hand. Thank you - Matt
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