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Washing machine motor runs sometimes

The washer stopped at mid cycle full of water.Allit would do is make a buzzing sound. I drained the water and removed the clothes. I tried different positions on the cycle selector switch and the only function it would perform is filling with water, no movement related to the motor. I removed the top and sides and jumpered the lid switch connector so it appeared closed. I removed the pumpand turned the motor shaft with pliers and it appears free.The capacitor checks OK per your test procedure but I can't check the actual capacitance.I don't see any burned or loose wires. So I tried to run the washer at the spin setting since there is no water in it. Sometimes it will spin and sometimes the motor just humms and doesn't turn. While it was humming I tried to turn it with pliers but it won't turn either direction. I can't decide if the problem is the motor or the motor switch or maybe the timer. What further tests would you suggest? Thanks Jack

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There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




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Posted on Sep 14, 2010

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Machine stopped in mid cycle with the drain/unlocking light on. No error codes. Machine goes directly to the drain/unlocking position after start. Will not fill, spin, operate. Any ideas?


Good Day,
Your washing machine is fully automatic?
the washing cycle is normal?
if yes do the same maybe it will help you.
for the fully automatic washing machine mostly have drain pump, please check the filter of your drain pump, how? remove the cup of your drain pump like a ordinary cup, screw it clock wise or counter clock wise.
Remove drain pump filter and clean it, some hair pins, cotton buds or coins or any small item that coz of clog up.
if your washing machine dont have drain pump ,but fully automatic check the drain motor if running or not? how? open the back cover for top loader washing machine only, select spin cycle and press start to see the drain motor running? the drain motor is like a small box with small wire to pull the lever of the drain to remove water inside, if the motor running or pull the lever of the water pipe but water still inside the washing machine, remove the drain cup or cover and clean it or check if have coin or cloth inside that coz of clog or water stuck,
if the drain pump or drain motor is weak this is will cause and long time draining or totally not running the drain pump or drain motor and its cause of totally stop the cycle of washing machine in rinse time or spin time, because all fully automatic washing machine, after washing cycle the drain pump or drain motor must be on, to remove water before start the next cycle. rinse or spin cycle.

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Lid Switch Assembly

If the washer stops mid cycle the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.


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Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly

If the washer stops mid cycle the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.


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Water Inlet Valve

If the washer stops mid cycle the water inlet valve cold water side may have failed. Most washers have a cold water rinse and so if they can't fill with cold water they just sit indefinitely waiting for the cold water to enter. If there is cold water to the water inlet valve and the cold water works in other parts of the cycle - or to make warm water - the valve is not the problem.


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Main Control Board

If the washer stops mid-cycle the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other causes first such as the lid or door switch and other components.


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Timer

If the washer stops mid cycle the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.

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if it stops at the drain and spin cycle check the lid switch,open the lid,set the washer to spin cycle and pull out the timer knob,stick a screw driver into the hole where the strike from the lid goes into and push down,if you don't hear a clicking sound when you push down on the switch in the hole then you have a bad lid switch but if your machine does run sometime it sounds like the switch will work if you push down on it,could be cracked where the screws go into it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5aW9WkTFhE watch video on how to replace it.if you do hear a clicking sound when you open and close the lid or push down with the screw driver you could have a bad timer but check the lid switch first

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