Sounds like your starter is bad, you could take it off and to the auto parts store and they can test it. My chevy did the same thing, all it is is a bad solenoid most times, which is located on the starter
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First, check the battery in the remote control unit. It may be dead, or the battery contact has broken loose from the board and needs to be resoldered. If the remote control unit looks good, check the receiver in the vehicle. Make sure the wiring harness is properly connected and undamaged and the fuse is good.
If you take it to a custom shop, they can quickly swap you out for a new module of your choosing. If you are handy and have a wiring diagram for the old module, you may be able to do the swap on your own. This is assuming the module is the only thing that needs changing.
If some problem exists in the wiring or the car, all bets are off. Electricity and electronics is not a forgiving field. Even if you are good with cars and circuits, a pro install shop would still be faster and much less of a headache.
You may need to replace the fan motor but before you do check and make sure you don't have a loose wire going to the fan motor. You might be loosing power to the fan motor. Is the fan motor making noise before it stops. Chev are famous for having the bearing on the fan motor going out and the fan will clatter against the fan motor housing. If you need to change the motor just remove the wire to the motor and pull the beauty cover off then you can remove the holding screws and put your new motor in. Be sure to remove the battery cable to ensure you don't short something out during the process and burn the wiring.
Start by inspecting the spark plug. If it looks ok, swap it with another cyl and see if the miss follows the plug. Do the same with the wire. If the miss changes with the part, that is the problem. If it stays with the cyl make sure you are getting spark from the dist cap. If the miss is still there, check engine compression. If it is good, may have a bad injector or mechanical problem or vacuum leak
It is very important to know what kind of car you have. First sounds like you have passlock issues thats what the pljx is for. You have to have to know what car so you can program it for that car and to make sure you are using the right interface module. If you do have the correct parts then remove the module and make sure all connections are right and no wires are cut. You should be able to start the car at this point. If it does start then you must have not programmed the pljx correct.
Hi, I had a 1996 dually that did the same thing while pulling my 36ft. fifth wheel. I found that the oil pump drive/shaft had some how disassociated itself from the distributer. I fished it out with a magnet, popped in a new shaft, and it fired right up. I kept the truck until 2003. No new issues to report.
IF ENGINE CRANKS BUT NOT START -, sounds like a short in the tach wire, plug remote starter in and cut the tach wire to the engine for the remote starter. if the truck starts then you remote starter module is faulty.
IF ENGINE WON'T KRANK -, then there is a starter kill hooked in with it. if you bypass this you should be fine. just follow yellow wire from ignition switch till you find where it is cut. rejoin these two yellow wires and you should be good to go
just read over the tach learning procedures for this. Are you sure your hooked up to a good tach source. My notes show its the green wire at the coil. Check your connections and let me know if there good.
first, is it an alarm, keyless entry, remote start, or combination of the three? if you're SURE its just a remote start, you need to find the control module. it will probably be a black box, probably a bit larger than a pack of cigarettes. you can usually identify an aftermarket component by its wiring; it wont look like it fits with everything else that the factory put in there. a dead giveaway is red power wires with an in-line fuse holder in them. THIS IS NOT FACTORY WIRING, THEY PUT THEIR FUSES IN THE FUSEBOX! the module should be either in the driver's kick panel area, or up under the dash around the steering column. when you locate the non factory wiring with the in-line fuses, pill them out. done. if you have any problems, email me at firstname.lastname@example.org. (i am a mecp first class certified installer with >10years of experience)