Convergence chips changed out now I have no picture
I had a convergence problem with a Hitachi 43fdx20b. I changed out both convergence chips and checked resistors. I had a 3D looking picture before but now I have no picture. My power light blinks and I hear a clicking noise. I also smell something burning. I left the rear cover off but can see no smoke or glowing resistors. took board out again and checked my soldering. made sure all of my connections were put back correctly. I am frustrated.....
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voltages to IC's There's a shielded module near convergence IC's It could be bad too. Check voltages to It.. I had simular problem /replaced IC's did not fix..Replaced module & did convergence.. TV was fine so try this 1st k
No,ur tv have a problems,known as a convergence problems,it dead.Very common problems on the DLP tvs design flaw.Most commom problems are R,G,B mis alignment,will not align,Colors shadows pictures,3D pictured and blurry?The tv convergence board require changing the 2 STK convergence ICS and some or all it resistors are dead,must changes to solved convergence problems.The shop will cost u $300-350 for parts and labors.
It sounds as though you have a convergence problem. This problem is normally a convergence chip ( there are two (2) of them on the convergence board ) If you intend to correct the problem yourself, always remember to practice precautions by unplugging the tv before removing or servicing the set. To change these chips, carefully follow these tips . I do suggest you change both chips as I have found that when one goes bad, the other one is on the way out also.
Remove the bottom back cover by using the proper screw driver or nut driver. usally a 1/4 inch nut driver or a phillips screw driver is all that's necessary.
When you have the boards exposed to view, notice on the left center of the convergence board ( the convergence board had 2 large ( large being 3X4 inches) chips next to each other. These chips normally are marked with number like STK 3020, STK 3050 etc.( I don't know the exact number on this perticlar set but they are all about the same ) They usally have about 15 pins ( wires ) coming from them. May be 12 or 18 but normally 15. This board needs to be removed to change the chips, so remove any screws that mount the board and disconnect each wire connected to the board. ( NOTE : I normally mark each wire with some kind of a color code with permanite marker pen as to know exactly where to reconnect the wire to eliminate any mistakes ) With a soldering iron ( normally one of about 25-40 watts works well ) and some de-soldering wick ( can be purchased at most electronic parts stores or Radio Shack ), remove the chips. Clean all the connections after taking the chips loose from the heat sink ( the heat sink is the aluminum plate the chip is screwed to ). Apply an ample amount of heat sink compound ( silicon grease it is sometimes called) ( can also be purchased at Electronic Parts Store or Radio Shack ) to the back of the heat sink and reinstall the new chips ( make sure the new chips are of exact numbers as the old), being extra careful not to bend the pins. Solder the pins being extra careful not to jump solder across any connections.( if you happen to apply too much solder and do in fact jump lead across the connections, simply use the de-soldering wick and remove any excess solder ). Reinstall all the wires and screws to the board ( double check for mistakes ) and turn the set on, checking for the correct convergence. You'lle need to do a quick convergence with the magic focus switch after warming the set up for appr. 20 minutes. Reinstall the back of the set. The set should work fine. I do hope this helped Ed NC Electronic Mills, Wyoming