How do i fit the flue to the wall? - Smeg KSED65X-1 Kitchen Hood

First thing to try is to check the flue to see if it is blocked or even partially blocked. This type of flue assembly exhausts burnt gases from the heater and another section draws fresh air in to the heater to be mixed and burnt with the gas.
the centre of the flue is the exhaust section and the outer section of the flue is the fresh air intake section.
removing the flue cowl will allow a visual inspection of the flue for any blockages.
If the flue is a long run then a plumber may need to be called to disassemble the flue for a closer inspection.

No, Rinnai manufacture other models with a conventional flue.
Most models these days are balanced flue for ease of installation.

Air line, flue brush , what ever will fit to clear it . not water.

Is this unit tight against the wall?
Can it be pulled away from the wall, without too much difficulty?
You need to be sure the leak is outside of the flue pipe going thru the wall to the outside.--
Or is it leaking in thru the inside?

If the leakage is due to a gap between the flue pipe and the hole thru the wall, then attention needs to be given to the flashing, and the air tight seal at the outside of the penetration...
Was a metal collar installed-- TIGHTLY against the flue pipe?
How was the needed air space (for fire prevention) made between the HOT flue pipe, and the framing materials?-- Then outside of that, how was the gap insulated?- (Non burnable-- like fiberglass can be used-- but it all depends upon the outer and then inner METAL seal rings being tight.)

Tell us more about where you are feeling the drafts..

Mack B

You can use single wall flue pipe with no problems, but any double wall would be more expensive than needed, but yes, you can use either as long as you can seal any seems or openings.

I have changed a 2001 Consule to an Ultima Consule once and just had to raise it up 50mm using a plinth. I made one myself using some nice tiles and hardwood face that pleased the customer. I've tried to search through my manuals for a 2000 to double check that the flue spigot is the same width and depth but couldn't find one.

All I can say is my swap worked ok with the plinth. Not sure how a 4" one will look though? Double check measurements on the old 2000 and you should be ok.

Only other way would be to cut out a larger hole in the wall to access the flue, fabricate an extension to the twin wall down pipe and actually drop the spigot opening. Sounds a bit more hassle, hard to say without actually seeing the thing. Hope it turns out ok and this limited advice was worth it.

water vapour is one the main products of combustion of gas. With a standard efficiency boiler, upon initial heat up when the flue is cold this vapour can condensate on the inner wall of the flue but should stop once the flue heats up, to stop this condense dripping back on to the heat exchanger the flue should be tilted towards the outlet and thus on initial heat up water can drip from the flue. with high efficiency (condensing) boilers, condensation will occur in the flue and secondary heat exchanger during normal operation, dispense of this condensate is accommodated for in the boiler and therefor the flue should be tilted towards the boiler, if not the flue will drip constantly.

Have you had problems lighting it?
Any sootng?

This unit can be vented through the roof but requires a specialized flue system-do not use an existing flue connection. Call a contractor - have them check and see if the unit can be modified to a vertical flue- it will require the existing piping to be replaced--Not a job for a do-it yourselfer

Older fires have an exhaust flue and get their air supply from the well ventilated room in which they're fitted. Balanced flue fires are the correct choice for rooms which lack sufficient fresh air ventilation. They have a flue which draws in outside air necessary for combustion whilst also acting as an exhaust for the combustion products. To work the appliance must be completely sealed so that no air is drawn from the room; the pressure of the incoming air and the pressure of the outgoing exhaust is equal so the flue is described as balanced.

The lack of a requirement for fresh air ventilation means that less energy is used; open outside vents let heat out as whilst allowing fresh air to enter.

Balanced flue appliances which exit directly through an exterior wall should cost very little more to fit than a regular appliance: the only additional cost may be in blocking up the old flue outlet and creating a new one but this rarely takes more than half an hour. A sealing collar is fitted to the outside of the flue (included in the flue kit) so there may be additional costs in hiring a ladder (or even erecting scaffolding) if you're higher than the ground floor.

Budget-level balanced flue fires typically cost between £350-£500 and the fitting charge may be fair depending upon your property, but it's also worryingly vague. A properly qualified and experienced gas fitter should be able to give you a precise quote and will already possess all of the tools needed to fit a new flue.

Also, ensure that you have your landlord's written permission to fit the new fire. If you don't then the landlord can claim that you have damaged the property and demand that you restore the property to original condition when you leave. If you get permission then you can also expect your landlord to insist that when you leave the property you do not take the new fire with you and that you supply an original copy of the gas fitter's installation certificate. Without this the landlord is within his/her rights to commission a safety inspection at your expense. Note that subsequent annual gas safety checks are required to be carried out by the landlord at his/her expense as per normal.