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Re: thumping noise when running---suspect the blower...
Before you can take off the fan housing cover to get at the blower wheel, you have to get the shroud off. On some models there a couple of long screws you can take out and it's simple. On others you need to take off more parts. But either way it's not a bad job for someone who can wield a screwdriver. You should also have a 5/16-inch nutdriver or small ratchet and socket handy.
Here's a website with some good pictures of the innards and procedures for getting to the fan:
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Not sure where your located, so check that unit didn't freeze up on you. Make sure evaporator and condenser coils/fins are clean and run on fan only to aid in thawing them out. Once you see condensation running off roof good, try using cool again and see what happens. When they freeze up, airflow gets restricted through unit. The outside fan and blower wheel for forced air inside are attached to same motor, so if fan is working, blower wheel should be turning as well unless it is broken, or allen key has come loose on clamp around center of blower wheel. Other possibility is that the blower wheel is turning but forced air ducts have blockage at inlet, which will require letting ceiling assembly down to inspect, or removing cover on roof and screws at front evaporator and opening it up. Make sure power is off during inspection.
Hello, if no air is blowing thru the vents then it could be a bad blower motor, a bad run capacitor, or a bad control board. If the motor is getting voltage from the board and it will start by spinning the blower wheel by hand you capacitor is bad. If it does not the motor is shot, however if you do not get voltage from the board but there is voltage to the furnace then the board is bad.
Hello, kindly check your air blower if is running if not u need to call a service technician to check it, if it is running and blow some air, i guess you don't have enough freon to your condenser, (freon is a liquid like a liquid nitrogen that running thru the aircon to create a cold air.Thanks
You have a bad blower . This piece slides onto the motor shaft and pulls the heat thru the drum and out thru the vent hose . It is easily replaced ( and inexpensive if you do it yourself ) by removing the front of the dryer .
when was the last time you cleaned the dryer?try removing the vent line from the back of dryer to see if any air is blowing out,also is the dryer noisy?you could have a bad blower wheel.you need to clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into and behind that duct you'll find the blower wheel,also vac out the dryer where the motor is and if the vent line is a long run from the back of dryer to the outside i use a leaf blower to blow it out,make sure the outside vent isn't blocked with anything before you blow the vent line out,send model number if you need help getting the blower wheel part number if that's your problem,you should clean the dryer at least once a year so you don't have a fire,good luck
Good day, Sounds like the vent system is badly blocked, the blower wheel has stripped off it's shaft, or there is a lot of lint in the blower wheel/lint screen area. 1. Remove the vent hose and see if your getting air moving thru smarty. Maytag moves a lot of air. If O.K. test dryer with vent off for performance. Clean or replace vent hose as needed. 2. Blower wheel sheared on it's shaft. You have to remove the front panel to see if the wheel is loose. Old version had 2 screws on the bottom of the front panel. Remove, disconnect door switch wires and remove. New style (no screws on bottom) requires a putty knife forced on each corner of where the top meets the front. About an 1 1/2 inch in from the edge. Force in, releasing clip, and pulling the top of the front panel toward you. Lift off.
Should the blower wheel be bad, replace but make sure the area between the blower wheel and door filter are cleaned.
unplug dryer,take bottom panel off and take out the lint filter,remove the blower wheel duct and clean out the lint,while you have the cover off read out the thermal fuse located on top of the blower wheel housing,remove one of the wires when you read it out, if the air isn't moving outside it will pop the fuse.vac out the inside of dryer and if you have a shop vac switch it on blow and blow off all the lint off of the motor,you should do this once a year so you don't have a fire.if the fuse is good,read out the ignitor,sensor and gas coils.when you get it running go outside and make sure the air is blowing out strong,if it isn't you could have a blocked vent line,if it's a long run use a leaf blower to blow out the vent line.
Sometimes blower wheels will get loose in dryers. Sometimes they will get a whole lump of lint in them or you can hear a rattling noise in the dryer, this is the blower wheel, its worn out and it can cause the fuse to blow too,or it can half *** work and take fifty forever's to dry the clothes.Or it could be just that the dryer needs a good blowing out .I use a lawn blower to get all the lint out of the dryer as well as the vent pipe and vent to outside. I take the filter HOUSING out and wash it also. That is, I remove the housing and clean is good! Making sure that the dryer is properly flowing air is a good thing!
I have the 03 Expy with continuous rear air unit "clicking" or more accurately flapping of the air damper while the plastic gears in the 2L2H-19E616-AA grind away into toothlessness. Ford designed this unit to find the end of travel by jamming the motor to a stop and monitoring the current to determine when to stop applying voltage. That would probably be fine if the gears were designed to handle the jammed torque or the motor did not slip out of groove and continue turning and cracking the plastic gears.
There are two white colored boxes, one is for the temp plenum door, the other the upper/lower air flow. To be sure, do what I did, turn on the ignition, rear ac/heat and listen for the obnoxious click/thump as you move the temp control from full heat to full cool, you will know which part. Disconnect the electrical connector, four bolts and it is out!
Go to your dealer, part should be about $60 or less, look on line, lots of dealers sell for this or less on internet.