The red light on the front of the amp that is for the left channel surround (rear) is lit and i'm recieving no signal to the speaker. double checked connections, but still no sound from the speaker. all other channels working properly
I don't have experience with the 7500 but I had a 7000 with multiple bad channels (red light lit). The problem was bad filter capacitors on the amplifier boards. The large black filter caps (two per channel) were leaking on every amp board. Its a relatively easy repair if you can solder.
FYI you'll probably need a set of small hex head drivers to open the unit.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
My right channel went out on my GFA 7500 and the problem was TWO blown internal fuses. Each amplifier inside the GFA 7500 has two fuses. In order to get to the fuses you must first take the top of the amplifier off by removing the screws using an allen wrench. Then put the top back on.Turn the amplifier over and remove most of the screws from the bottom to access the fuses in the bottom of the amplifier. There are two different size allen wrenches on the bottom. Be careful to not drop a screw inside the amp and make sure you line up the screw holes that hold the amps using a small screw driver to push the amps into position. I replaced all the fuses on the top and the bottom. AdCom sells the fuses on their site.
Red light is on if:
- thermal protection, overheated amp, bad thermo sensor
- DC at speaker terminals
- high current at output transistors
Also could be a protection circuit malfunction.
In any case you need new channel module or send your module or whole amp for repair here.
no reason why not, 3 channel amps used to be the "state of the art" back in the early stereo days. the third channel was produced from the sum of the right and left channels, (the plus side of the right and the plus side of the left were sent to the center channel. produced what was considered at the time a true reproduction of the sound as it was intended to be. your lucky to have this old amp.
Unfortunately can't connect it that way. The pre out is only meant to go directly into an amplifier that has all of the same inputs (front/rear, center and surround), not a standard receiver. (Pre amp to amp only, not pre amp to receiver) If your Onkyo doesn't have all the same inputs as your Kenwood preamp has outputs you will just use your standard left/right outputs from the Kenwood to your Onkyo input (CD, Tape, Phono,DVD etc) then use the outputs (front/rear, center and surround) from your Onkyo receiver and connect directly to your speakers..
Ahhh, the good ole Bose 901. (I like those)... And you want to connect them to the Yamaha RX-V765 AV receiver. That should be a piece of cake. I assume you only have two Bose 901 cabinets. If so, you simply need to connect one end of your speaker wires to the terminals found on the 901 cabinets, and the other end of the speaker wires need to go to the Front Left and Front Right speaker outputs of the RX-V765. The RX-V765 is a 7 channel surround receiver. Weather you run it as a 7 channel theatre or as a more classic 2 speaker configuration, you will want to run the 901 cabs from the Front L and Front R speaker outputs, unless for some reason you want to specifically use them for any of the surround channels in which case it will not harm anything if you use them for surrounds - it's just that if you're simply wanting to use them as your principal speakers, you want Front L and Front R.
So connect them as I explained, power the receiver up, put on your favorite CD and enjoy!
Try just the power amp on ..nothing connected no Dakiom thingy either. It's a matter of elimination. Start at the output device and work back. Keep the Dakiom out of the loop. If there's hum with just the Adcom..then it's the ADCOM
It sounds as if there is a broken solder joint somewhere that slowly opens up with heat. The other possibility is that an input or driver transistor is dying. Since the whole channel is dying, I would guess the broken joint and/or dying transistor are near the very input of the channel.
A tech can very easily find the spot by playing the amp until it starts to die, then spraying small bursts of freeze spray, one component or area at a time, until the amp suddenly comes back to life.