Stackable Kenmore model 110.98752. Dryer drum turns but no heat. Vent does not appear plugged since air does flow through to outlet.
With your volt ohm meter (VOM) check for 220 volts at the terminal block the cord attaches to.
If 220 is present, unplug the dryer and remove the rear panel.
With meter set to continuity check the thermostats and fuses on the heater as well as the heater coil. Remember to unplug the wires to each component to check them correctly.
You should read 120 volts from black to white and red to white for a complete circuit.
Look closely at the wires at the terminal for a burned wire.
No burned wire, open the wall outlet and inspect the wires and the female connections.
Read voltage at the wall connection for 220 volts and 120 volts from hot to neutral on both legs.
With the power disconnected you should take at least one wire off each thermostat and limit just to be sure you don't somehow get a false read.
If it runs at all and the heating element is OK then you most likely need a limit kit.
You dryer has a series of safetys. If the control thermostat fails, the filter housing gets blocked with lint, or the vent gets stopped up the heat could cause a fire. The bottom cannister thermostat limit is the lowest temp one 250F, it should shut down first if it fails then the limit mounted at the top of the cannister is set to Blow at 300F When it blows that is an indication of an external vent blockage. If the problem is from within the dryer then the fuse mounted on the blower housing will blow an the dryer won't run. The fuse is rated at 350F and is tied into the door switch. That is why the wires are smaller. They don't carry the heat load. If the duct fuse blows it is the same as if you opened the door. The dryer simply quits running.
Jul 16, 2011 |