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Tub won't turn

Black rubber piece left a lot of rubber shavings on the floor - don't know how to disassemble motor from the bottom of the tub

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  • Paulo May 11, 2010

    Is this a top loading washer? If the black shavings came from the motor coupler, I can assist you in how to replace it.
    Please let me know.

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Hi, it sounds like your drive belt is broken! all you need to do is remove the back panel to replace the belt its quite easy no need to touch the motor, hope this helps

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

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Estate washer baangs loudly when rinsing dances around o floor...rebalancing doesnt help


Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.

A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket.

In a transmission lock up the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions.

If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet

Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.

If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it.

Another noise issue can arise from a worn SNUBBER RING on some washers that have a snubber like some Maytags, if u notice tiny pc's of white/grey shavings on the floor or around the bottom washer area? A sign of bad snubber. When removing to replace be careful as the spring underneath is pressure loaded.

A very similiar sound can be produced when the belt is worn but the difference is that a snubber noise can be produced during the spin cycle or when the cycle has finished and the spin tub is coasting to a stop. A worn belt noise can only be produced while the motor is actively engaged in spinning the spin tub. If it is discovered that the belt is worn and the base has black, shredded belt residue then it may not necessary to clean it out (belt residue generally will not cause a problem with the snubber). It will be necessary however, to find the cause of the belt failure.



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Feb 22, 2014 | Estate TAWX700JQ Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Estate etw4400tq


LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.

A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket.

In a transmission lock up the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions.

If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet

Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.

If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it.

Another noise issue can arise from a worn SNUBBER RING on some washers that have a snubber like some Maytags, if u notice tiny pc's of white/grey shavings on the floor or around the bottom washer area? A sign of bad snubber. When removing to replace be careful as the spring underneath is pressure loaded.

A very similiar sound can be produced when the belt is worn but the difference is that a snubber noise can be produced during the spin cycle or when the cycle has finished and the spin tub is coasting to a stop. A worn belt noise can only be produced while the motor is actively engaged in spinning the spin tub. If it is discovered that the belt is worn and the base has black, shredded belt residue then it may not necessary to clean it out (belt residue generally will not cause a problem with the snubber). It will be necessary however, to find the cause of the belt failure.

Feb 18, 2014 | Estate ETW4400TQ Top Load Washer / Dryer

1 Answer

My washer tub nor the agitator spin or rotate you can hear a whining n grinding noise


whining and grinding most likely mean belt or coupler is binding or broken away unplug unit and open access panel or [remove water first]lay on side and access motor from bottom if belt driven check belt if frayed or broken replace-if has coupler [looks like a star shaped hard rubber /plastic piece between motor and trans] if broken pieces on floor or shredded replace- part's can be bought online-appliance stores coupler not expensive and both parts easy replacement good luck

Nov 08, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Have a Frigidaire front load wash machine model# FTFB4000FS1. I believe my wedding ring is at the discharge pump. I was told by a service tech if I remove a baffel I could turn the drum to line up with the...


Please use this link to view an exploded view of your washer.
http://www.apwagner.com/large_image_viewer.php?image=images/diagrams/00204/i411639.GIF
You cannot remove the baffles without disassembling the entire tub assemblys.
To access the inside of the washer cabinet remove the two or three phillips head screws at the bottom of the front of the washer and the lower panel below the door will come off to give you access.
If your ring is anywhere it is probably caught inside the lint/debris trap #40 on the diagram. You will want to remove the entire rubber drain boot that connects between the pump and the bottom of the outer tub. Also try to reach inside the tub with your hand through the hole where the rubber drain boot connected if you do not find it in the lint trap.

I would not recommend anyone other than a skilled technician attempt to disassemble the wash tubs on this machine.
Good luck to you on this!!

Jun 27, 2010 | Frigidaire FTF2140FS Front Load Washer /...

1 Answer

Kenmore 90 series tub won't spin on spin cycle. I can turn the tub when its off but it hard to turn manually. I can turn it from underneath easier with what seems to me is the clutch. Also it looks like a...


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

What appears to be a gasket could be what's left of the motor coupler or it could simply be a vibration / sound deadening rubber band type piece that goes around the brake.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Nov 16, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

WHEN I TURN WASHER ON WATER STARTS POURING OUT OF THE BOTTOM OF THE MACHINE AND ONTO THE FLOOR. WATER IS COMING FROM THE BOTTOM LEFT SIDE.


The drum seal is bad. The seal allows the center to come up through the tub and the tub to rotate around it, It usually has a rubber membrane that flexes so the tub can rock around. The rubber tears and the water runs right out. If you can, disassemble the washer and change the seal, otherwise the washer is toast. Sorry! You can verify this by pouring water in from a bucket. If this water doesn't run through then it is the hose from the fill valve to the water outlet under the lid.

Jun 08, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore 90 series mod.# 110.28912791


OK The Kenmore 90 series mod.# 110.28912791 is not hard to work on. The problem on the washer was no agitation or spin.First I took the agitater out of the tub,and put them aside. Then I tilted the washer to get to the bottom of the washer. Inbetween the motor and I gueuss pump there are three pieces that need to be replaced called (motor coupler). I disconnected ac cord from wall outlet, the cold and hot water hoses. I disconnected the wires at the motor one piece and one two wire connection pluss move a small canister with two wires out of the way. Removed three bolts bottom of pump pulled pump and motor out, you have to turn back and forth a little and the whole assembly comes out. there are two screws that hold two clips at side of motor and motor come off easy. You will notice there is a black rubber disc with a plastic white three prong piece on each side. (Remove those pieces install same way ( you need to use something to hit the center of the plastic till it sets in, install black rubber piece six wholes three prongs on one side. Install second white pronged piece on the pump side and also hit center to set. Place pump over motor looking to (make sure) the top three prongs go inside three holes left in the black rubber piece. Once you line and they go inside line the motor to where the for rubber legs sat before put clips back on install the two screws, install shaft back in moving the motor side to side install the three bolts, hook wires plugs under the motor put canister with two wires back hook the two hoses back next to motor, stand washer back up, install agitater back, hook hot and cold hoses back plug back in and test. parts at sears (one hours time start to finish taking your time) keep track of all parts. Make diagram if you need to believe me it was easy and washer works great now. By the way when I took the parts off they did not look broken but were bad because now I have a working washing mashine. ( Good Luck, Wyatt Earp )

Feb 02, 2009 | Kenmore 23822 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer doesn't agitate.


Hi Karen,
It is not normal to smell a burning smell after a new coupler install. If the pump is not held on the motor with two clamps then it will raise off of the motor and strip the pump. This would cause the burning smell and also cause you to need a new pump. Before you use it again install the second pump clamp. If you cant find it let me know and we can ship you one over. Contact us anytime m-f 9-5. (865)945-3808
Anderson Appliance Parts and Service
Michael Anderson (Owner)

Sep 24, 2008 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

1 Answer

Noise when agitating


if it is whirlpool then skid plate could be out of place. Ge has a total different suspension system. black rubber could be the strap that restricts movement - 4 that attach from frame to tub ring.

Apr 23, 2008 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore elite top load ms9711174


THE KENMORE TOP LOAD WASHER HAS A CLUTCH AND DRIVE COUPLING THAT IS PART OF THE SPIN CYCLE.
THE DRIVE COUPLING ATTACHES THE MOTOR TO THE TRANSMISSION AND IS MADE OF PLASTIC AND RUBBER.
IT COULD BE GETTING HOT AND TORN. THE OTHER POSSIBILITY IS THE CLUTCH MAY BE SLIPPING. THERE COULD BE OIL THAT HAS GOTTEN INTO THE CLUTCH AND SO THE CLUTCH WON'T GRIP. PULL THE CABINET OFF OF THE WASHER OR TIP IT BACK AND CHECK THE FLOOR FOR BLACK OR WHITE SHAVINGS OR OIL. THE SHAVINGS WOULD BE FROM THE DRIVE COUPLING AND THE OIL COULD BE FROM THE TRANSMISSION OR THE SPIN TUBE.

Apr 01, 2008 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

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