I just bought a used CRATE PA-B6350 and hooked it into 2 peavey 15" bass cabinets and there is hardly any sound output and the red light comes on and the sound that does come out is distorted. what could the problem be?
The 2 speaker jacks are wired in parallel. If your subs are 4 ohm rated the amp is seeing a 2 ohm load and may be trying to protect itself - hence the red light. I would suggest you unplug 1 of the subs and see if the problem goes away. You may have a problem with one of your subs. This amp is probably not the best choice for such demanding work as it is not fan cooled. Good luck.
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The 130 special was released as a Combo Amp, though I have seen quite a few taken out of the original cabinet and used in a rack system. Mine had a single 12" Scorpion speaker, I think a revised model came out in 86 (in Canada at least) that had twin 10" black widows.
As these units get old, the solder joints can start to fail. Also, come of the components are getting tired. If you have no electronics experience, bring this to a servicer. I typically overhaul these units for about $100 plus parts. In most cases, the parts costis less than $20. These are solid units and you can probably get another 30 years out of it.
Part of the overhaul should be reseating all of the output transistors and replacing all of the heatsink compound as well as cleaning out all of the pots and switches.
I just saw your post. I happen to have a Crate BX-160 and was able to call Crate in St. Louis and talked with a tech there at the plant and he actually sent me full schematics for free.
Your problem, based on my electrical background and fixing audio equipment for 10 years, seems to be related to the built-in limiter in the power transformer. In other words, you might just need a new power transformer and it is a piece of cake to install (all push-on connections).
The schematic will show you the many test points for voltage checks, but unless you know what you are looking for, its just information overload. It is a rather simple amplifier and built resonably well. I have been using mine since 2003 and have fixed it a few times (age related problems like loose connections). There just is not much to go wrong on them except for the fact the amp is subjected to extream vibration. THis causes physical connections to fail resulting in vexing issues that are hard to solve. This is not unique to this amp (all bass amps).
I would bet anything your problem is the power supply shut-down circuitry is malfunctioning. In my expereience with amps, unless the amp is drawing current (failing power circuitry) and making strange sounds, the failure is usually not related to the power section failing (like power transformers going out). Likely, the built in limiter is the problem.
This amp is designed for a 4 ohm load. By connecting the two cabinets, you presented a 2 ohm load to the amp and overworked it. I suspect that the amp will now need repair. I don't know the particulars of your model, but if you have a way to check transistors, you may be able to repair this yourself. Let me know if you want to attempt this.
To get the speaker out, pull the frame with the grill cloth out of the amp by prying it out from any side, top or bottom. The grill frame is only held in with plastic velcro-like stuff. Once it's out, the speaker is bolted into the cabinet from the outside. Just unscrew the bolts holding it in, and lift the speaker out.
For removing the amp chassis, unscrew the bolts on the chrome plated strips on the top of the amp at the end of the right and left sides. The chassis should slide out the back. You may need to pull the speaker wires off the speaker, or pull the connector that hooks up the the chassis from the underside, which means you need to take out the speaker first.
Contact Peavey for the diodes and any other electronic components you need.
hell yer, built in New Zealand... or Aussie, cant remember. Best sort of speaker box for bass is 4 x 10inch quad box. Next. a single 15 inch, or use both together. The head you have I think was more of a PA system than a bass amp, but will certainly do the job. So long as you are not trying to keep up with a Fender twin, or a Marshall stack. 100 watts don't go far for bass. I would go for the single 15 inch driver to more the most air.
There will be some overlap in bass response that you may need to tune out to tone down the boomy bits. You could tune this out with a 31 band EQ Another approach is to use a crossover or low pass filter to the subs to get some control over your bass frequencies. Another thought, if you're using the rig for stage work, how does it sound out the front. It may be standing waves created by the bass bins, moving them to different monitoring positions may also help.
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