Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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Kenmore series 80 washer filled with water now unresponsive

My wife started the washer with a load of clothes and the washer filled with water. The cycle dial did not move at all, and it will not agitate, spin or drain by moving the dial manually. I've checked the obvious for power at the outlet/breaker not tripped. I read the post on the lid switch, took the two screws out of it and pulled it out past the tub where I could see it and it clicks when I press down slowly on it, but, it also looks like it's either cracked at the gray/black seam, or is in two parts. I'm not sure which. I don't know how to simply open the washer top where I can get to the switch from under the lid... it doesn't just "unsnap" and tip open like in the "olden days", so I'm sure there's a trick or something here I'm missing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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  • wburkejr Feb 21, 2009

    First things first! Unplug the washer from the outlet. I tested the outlet and breaker both of which were OK.

    Reading a couple of other posts I figured the lid switch was gone. The lid switch on this model is on the right side away from the hinged lid. The probe/post which engages the lid switch was fine, so I removed the two screws from the back of the washer at the top left and right corners which hold the back of the console to the back of the machine. My machine has two end caps which pop out from the bottom and swing up after which they can be removed and set aside. There are two screws now exposed at the bottom left and right of the console which was covered by the end caps. Remove each of these screws and set aside. You can now gently lift the console up and let it rest over the back of the washing machine being careful not to damage the clear hose connected to the console. There is only one connector going through the washing machine top with three wires. If you have an ohm meter you can stop and test your lid switch here. Disconnect the harness from the machine top connector which goes to the lid switch. The two outside connectors go to the switch, the center connector goes to ground. If you have an ohm meter, attach it to the two outer connectors and depress the lid switch on the right hand side of the top with a screw driver gently until you hear it click. The ohm meter should change and read 0 ohms if the switch is good (mine goes from 0 to reading 0.000. If it's bad, you will see no change. Mine was actually cracked horizontally on one side around the switch body allowing the lever to move the body enough that no contact was being made in the switch itself.

    To get to the switch, remove the two brass colored clips which were under the console using a screwdriver by springing the front of each clip forward. Remove the clips and set aside. The entire outside cabinet of the washer will tilt forward away from the back now by lifting under the back edge of the top of the washing machine body and using the lid which is open, simply tilt the entire body forward to gain access to the switch. There are two screws holding in the switch from the inside of the washing machine edge which must be removed and set aside.

    I ended up fixing the switch rather than replacing it by using a couple of thin zip strips around the outside edges of the switch where the would not interfere with the switch levers action, and then testing with my ohm meter to make sure all was well by manually depressing the switch. I reinstalled the switch, tested it again with the ohm meter after installing it, and all was still good, so reassembled the washer in the reverse order from above, plugged the thing in and problem solved.

    I think the lid got dropped (slammed) on the switch once to often which is what ended up cracking the case of the switch. Appropriate parties have been chastised accordingly to NOT drop the damn lid again. :)


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It appears your timer/main controller has failed in this instance.

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