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Wiring up bass box.and deadlocking problem

How i can i feed a power lead from inside the car through the bulkhead to battery?
the dealocks don't work on this vehicle,central locking ok but deadlocks not working ,alarm not working any ideas.

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IF YOU MEAN THROUGH THE FIRE THEN RUN IT THROUGH THE RUBBER BOOT THAT IS AROUND THE STEERING COLUMN

Posted on Feb 24, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Wiring diagrams


Check for power at glow plug, connect meter to earth and wire feed to plug, should get a 12v feed, if you get a feed the plug is duff. You can remove the plug and test for an Ohm's resistance, no resistance it's broken! If you have a power supply then it is possible the glow plug relay is not working. Follow the cable from the glow plugs, this is generally a thick 30/60 amp cable, the relay is larger than other relays and not in the fuse box, possibly on the bulkhead or inner wing because of the power it has to transfer. DO NOT DIRECT POWER FEED THE GLOW PLUGS, You can burn them out!

Dec 28, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

All power windows don't work


Dealers-hmmph.
You may have to keep looking for another broken wire. To the driver's master switch, a tan wire looks like the hot wire (feed) for the switch. And a black wire is ground, originating at the master switch and going back into the cabin with the wire harness, and then to a nearby ground source, probably behind the left kick panel. If you pull the master switch off, key on,, check for power on the tan wire terminal of the switch connector. Use a test light or a voltmeter. Now if you have a hot wire on the connector, put one volt meter lead on the hot wire terminal and the negative lead onto the black wire terminal. If ground is good, voltmeter will read battery voltage. If ground is lost, voltmeter will show nothing. Same with test light-check for a hot wire with key on. If yes, put test light lead on hot wire and use probe to touch ground-if ground is good, tester will light up. Alternatively, you could remove the left kick panel and check the security of the ground to frame there.
The only place I know for a wiring diagram would be a repair manual. Haynes manuals are about the best (about $25 at parts stores), short of a factory service manual for big bucks.
If still no luck with windows, and no hot wire with key on, pull the circuit breaker for the windows on the fuse panel under dash. With key on,. one of those terminals for the circuit breaker should show power. Ground a test light and probe both terminals to check for power. If no power there, check under hood fuses or fuse links that feed the fuse box. If CB has power available, well, that's the feed for the tan wire-sounds like either the tan wire or the black ground wire may have a break. If power to switch, check ground wire.
As a last resort, try a new circuit breaker if powered at CB terminal but nothing at driver's switch. If power is to switch on tan wire, and ground is working, consider that you may have gotten a defective master switch-not likely, but known to happen.

May 09, 2013 | 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Don't know how to hook up the amp. It came with a wiring kit and I have no idea on how to hook it up.


You need to connect the Power wire (Most likely red wire with fuse) to the battery and run it to where you put the amp. You need to also drill a whole in the car and make sure it is grinded up and bare metal is shown. Screw the ground wire there with a bolt and nut. You will then need to run the rca cables from the amp location to either the back of the headunit if it has RCA outputs, or use a Line out converter, you can get them at best buy. Then you need to find your cars wiring harness code and figure out which is the remote ignition turn on and tap into that and feed that wire back to the amp to turn it on. Hook all wires up and make sure power and ground DO NOT TOUCH.

Jul 24, 2011 | Visonik Dual Bass Box with Amplifier Car...

1 Answer

We have no power. No lights or anything. tryed the battery that is good. Checked all fuses they are good. checked the spark plugs and they also are good. what could it be?


No power to anything on the bike means that the primary power circuit is not complete. On older bikes, especially ones stored outside for any length of time, the most common culprits are the ground wire and the main lead to the circuit box. A more distant possibility is a bad ignition switch.

Check the ground first, as it's easy. Follow the heavy cable from the negative lead of your battery down to wherever it bolts to the frame. See any rust or corrosion, either where the cable attaches to the battery or where it attaches to the frame? A bad ground can cause total electrical system failure, as well as all kinds of intermittent problems, and it's simple to fix--unbolt the cable, brush/sand off the corrosion, and re-attach. See if that makes any difference.

If your ground looks good, the next most likely place to check is the line from the positive battery terminal to the fuse box. Disconnect both the positive and negative leads of your battery, and use a meter or continuity tester to touch where the positive battery terminal would connect and to the main fuse in the fuse box. You should see continuity. If you don't, try a few other fuses. If you don't see continuity on any of them, turn the ignition switch to the "on" position and check again, just in case the main electrical feed goes through the ignition switch before hitting the fuse box (most bikes I've serviced are not wired this way). If you don't find continuity, start tracing back from the fuse box to the positive battery terminal. You may find an inline main fuse outside the fuse box that's gone bad, or a fusible link that's gone open. In addition, particularly on vintage Yamaha motorcycles, the fuse box junction itself was prone to corrosion, so the wire would be fine all the way up to the fusebox, where electricity would then hit resistance.

If all this checks out, try testing the ignition switch. Usually, the switch can be disconnected via a (somewhat awkward to reach) connector, giving you a handful of unlabeled leads to test. Turn the switch to the "on" position, and use the continuity meter to test that a complete circuit is being made between some or all of the wires. Typically, one wire will be black (the ground), so clip a lead to that and test the other wires in this bundle in relation to that one. At least some of them should show continuity when the ignition switch is turned on. None of them should show continuity when the switch is turned off. Honda ignition switches are usually very reliable, though, so I consider this a less likely cause for your symptoms than a fault in your primary electrical wiring.

Good luck!

May 10, 2011 | 1982 Honda GL 1100 Gold Wing

1 Answer

I have fitted new engine and trans to 1981 Corvette and have disconnected all the old computer wiring as am no longer using computer chip.What is best way to go about getting power to fuse box.Have power...


Run a cable from the battery positive to the fuse box. Don't mess with the wires in the clip they are for the regulator. once you get power to the fuse box, you have power there from the ignition.

May 01, 2011 | Chevrolet Corvette Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I dont know why my amp is not getting any power? the power light wont even come on? everything seems to be connected properly, but its not getting any power?


Make sure you have both power wires hooked up. There's the main power lead/cable going to to the battery, and the trigger wire from the accessory wire from the radio (antenna) to the amplifier. Hope that's what you were looking for. If so please rate my assistance and leave a testimonial.

Dec 30, 2010 | Visonik Dual Bass Box with Amplifier Car...

2 Answers

Peugeot 406 HDI 2001. O/S rear door dead locked.


Deep joy. This can be a royal pain. The only way I have successfully done this is to put a battery charger on the car overnight, locked, and then when the battery is sitting at about 15v unlock it with the remote - when the lazy deadlock is stirred into action. It can take a couple of attempts. It really is incredibly difficult to get to. Otherwise, its most easily a case of breaking the unit...though you could try taking the leads off and applying 18v to the solonoid directly. That was my next move, but never needed to get there. You can however stop the deadlock from locking, by cutting one of the wires, test using a multimeter which one is live when you arm the alarm/deadlock the car. Thats also the one to apply 18v to if you want to.

Jul 05, 2009 | 2006 Peugeot 604

1 Answer

NO BASS


try hooking up the remote wire from the car to the amp turnon lead form the deck, some cars have factory amps that need a turnon lead


Don

Jan 02, 2008 | Pioneer DEH-P3600 CD Player

1 Answer

The bass box


Hi Jamesroy,

Remove the Audio inputs from the bass box to see if the thump is coming from the Audio input. Of course do this with everything turned on. What we are trying to figure out is where the thump is originating from. If the bass box does not thump when the audio inputs are disconnected, the thump is coming from somehwere between the bass box and the circuits inside the head unit.
If you still have the thump after the Audio input wires are disconnected, then your bass box's amplifier has noise problem. You might try getting a noise filter from best buy to put on the power supply feeding the bass box.

Nov 30, 2007 | Pioneer DEH-P7400 CD Player

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