We have no power. No lights or anything. tryed the battery that is good. Checked all fuses they are good. checked the spark plugs and they also are good. what could it be?
No power to anything on the bike means that the primary power circuit is not complete. On older bikes, especially ones stored outside for any length of time, the most common culprits are the ground wire and the main lead to the circuit box. A more distant possibility is a bad ignition switch.
Check the ground first, as it's easy. Follow the heavy cable from the negative lead of your battery down to wherever it bolts to the frame. See any rust or corrosion, either where the cable attaches to the battery or where it attaches to the frame? A bad ground can cause total electrical system failure, as well as all kinds of intermittent problems, and it's simple to fix--unbolt the cable, brush/sand off the corrosion, and re-attach. See if that makes any difference.
If your ground looks good, the next most likely place to check is the line from the positive battery terminal to the fuse box. Disconnect both the positive and negative leads of your battery, and use a meter or continuity tester to touch where the positive battery terminal would connect and to the main fuse in the fuse box. You should see continuity. If you don't, try a few other fuses. If you don't see continuity on any of them, turn the ignition switch to the "on" position and check again, just in case the main electrical feed goes through the ignition switch before hitting the fuse box (most bikes I've serviced are not wired this way). If you don't find continuity, start tracing back from the fuse box to the positive battery terminal. You may find an inline main fuse outside the fuse box that's gone bad, or a fusible link that's gone open. In addition, particularly on vintage Yamaha motorcycles, the fuse box junction itself was prone to corrosion, so the wire would be fine all the way up to the fusebox, where electricity would then hit resistance.
If all this checks out, try testing the ignition switch. Usually, the switch can be disconnected via a (somewhat awkward to reach) connector, giving you a handful of unlabeled leads to test. Turn the switch to the "on" position, and use the continuity meter to test that a complete circuit is being made between some or all of the wires. Typically, one wire will be black (the ground), so clip a lead to that and test the other wires in this bundle in relation to that one. At least some of them should show continuity when the ignition switch is turned on. None of them should show continuity when the switch is turned off. Honda ignition switches are usually very reliable, though, so I consider this a less likely cause for your symptoms than a fault in your primary electrical wiring.
May 10, 2011 |
1982 Honda GL 1100 Gold Wing