It has a new map sensor, new MAF, replaced relay module box, new plugs, new wires, removed cat, fluids are good, and probably a couple others I can't remember right now. I've checked vacuum lines, nothing seems cracked or lose. I'm thinking o2 sensor for performance(The car has had these problems sense we purchased so I don't know if it is effecting fuel mileage), but I unplugged the o2 sensor but the car seems to run worse. I'm hoping it's just a cable link adjusting to fix the shifting problems... Any help will be very much appreciated! Thank you!
You apparently have no knowledge of the current OBD
systems or the previous systems, for the last 30 years or
more
You have to have exhaust converters & oxygen sensors
in order to have fuel control
You sort of bought a problem & added to it
Google OBD2 Systems & read up on what your asking
e.g. How a car actually works
Your sort of living in the 1970's--- today you need to know
electronics & theory
The wish & hope-- push & poke repair days are gone
SOURCE: 1994 ford ranger extended cab 6 cyl fuel injected 2 wheel drive automatic
This year of ranger had a few flaws, In one case, a break power booster was robbing the vacumm, you can test this by plugging it off and seeing the differance, but you will have limited brakes. This model year had a problem with a vacuum leak on the manifold. You can check these in many ways, but please don't use starting fluid. The rear of the manifold usually on the drivers side where it seals to the block.
Also, in 2 other cases a cracked head has gave me the same problem. It is caused from a loss of vacuum.
SOURCE: Running rough and jerking on acceleration
Depending on what kind of truck you have it may be the distributer. I have a 72 ford pk and same problem. Changed points and same problem. Changed distributer and fixed problem.
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After checking timing(Which is good), I noticed the 'Check Engine' light was on only when the key was in the on position. But up until today, the light is never on. Only times is after it dies, which it did today. I punched the throtle and it fell on its face. I was able to get a read on it once, And I replace the MAF. But running problems remain... The light decided when it wants to come on. That's why I'm searching the Web for answers like crazy, because our of the 4 times I hooked it up to the codes, I've only been able to get a reading once. I think when I have the money I'm replacing the o2 sensor, the car has enough miles now... Thanks.
I understand I pretty much need codes to solve problems with the newer cars. But this isn't working. I'm going to take the car down and hope the light is on, to get a code again, hopefully. Like i said, the people I take it to havnt been able to get reading from the car the other 4 or so times, because the car decided to not show any at the time. lol Only times the light comes on is when I disconnect something, or the car dies.
Are you saying I have to have a cat on the exhaust to have a motor run right?
You replace no parts at all You failed to read or understand what is wrote You have a check light & codes They are used to diagnose a systems components not replace a thing until a part fails a test Educated yourself first then work on the car
I'm trying to learn more, but I also need this car to work right. You are helping, I know the Mustang uses OBD1, and OBD2 started in -96 standerized, but some cars started to use is in 94. I'll post again what I come up with tomorrrow. Thanks again.
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