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Re: While spinning my Neptune will dance all over the...
Dear gpotts839, Friday 2-20-2009 11:27pm EST (USA)
Underneath the washer on each corner are leveling legs that are probably not level. They are adjustable so make sure the washer is level by trying to shake it when off and adjusting the legs, with pliers or by hand, so it won't rock at all when off.
If this isn't your problem it may be from overloading the washer with clothes or a large comforter or not using enough water when filling.
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this is either the drain valve activator or a timer control issue
pull machine away from wall remove small panel in back (low down to floor) hang dish pipe in bucket , start normal cycle and watch with flashlite the mech in bottom go thru all the motions(don't stick your hands in there ) , you should see the drain valve activator move about one inch , when it gets to drain step its attached to hose that u hung in bucket
Open your home's breaker box and flip the circuit breaker
switch to "On." If it is already set to "On," flip it to "Off" and then
back to "On" to reset it. A power surge may have interrupted your wash
cycle so the drain/spin cycle never actually started.
Move the washer away from the wall and straighten the drain
hose if it is twisted or turned in a way that makes it difficult for
water to flow through it. Replace a kinked hose with a new hose.
Push on the washer door to make sure it is fully closed. The
washer will not drain or spin unless the door is closed tight. Press
the "Start/Pause" button after you close the door.
Wait for about 30 seconds after you press "Start/Pause." The
washer will not operate until it has been able to fully lock the door
and restart the drain process.
Run the clothes through a complete cycle again, making sure
you use cold water if there are a lot of suds in the washer. Too much
soap in the washer can make it hard to drain. Use high-efficiency or
low-sudsing detergents on subsequent uses.
Pull the drain hose up out of the drain if it has been crammed down inside. The hose should go maybe 4 inches down inside and be secured to something stationary so that it doesn't move. If the hose is shoved too far down inside, the water will not go down the drain and will instead come right back up and run all over your floor. Good luck.
Hi, follow the instruction below to clear the clooged hose.....
Pull the washer 2 to 3 feet away from the wall so you have enough room to access the drain pipe.
Locate the drain discharge hose where it comes out from the back of the washing machine. Typically it will be a 1 1/2-inch hose and leads to the drain in the floor, wall or laundry tub.
Detach the discharge hose from the drain. The hose may be secured by a squeeze clamp or screw clamp or it may just be inserted directly with no clamp. Use pliers for the squeeze clamp, screwdriver for a screw clamp or pull the hose straight up, depending on how it is secured.
Insert the pipe snake into the open drain until you feel the clog release. Typically this will be very close to the top rather than several feet down.
Check the drain hose section that is attached to the washer. If there is another clogged area, you will be able to see it; snag it with the wire and pull it out.
Replace the drain discharge hose into the drain and check all connections to ensure there will be no water escaping.
Move the washer back into place. It will now drain properly.
it's syphoning caused by the drain hose in the stand pipe (wall) too far.
pull the drain hose out and stick in 6 inches only and secure to one of the fill hoses so it does not go back down too far. This will solve your problem
It sounds like something is blocking the hose or the pump is not working. If you can get the washer drained pull it out so you can get to the back and pull the drain from it's place in the wall so you can look down the hose (make sure the dryer is off and the breaker is off to it) If ine is available try blowing air back through the drain line to the washer and this may unplug any obstructions there. If you don't have an air compressor you can find fittings at the hardware store to rig a water hose to the end of the drain and do the same thing.
if it is syphoning......pull the drain house out of the stand pipe it is in tooooooo far. once it is too far down it does not have an air gap anymore which causes it to fill and drain and never reach maximum water level. the hose should only be in the stand pipe 6 inches. when you pull the hose out of the wall and you hear it go glub glub glub and water exits the hose that is a major sign of syphoning. And yes it can be intermitten. Let me know how it goes and if you have any other questions.
It should all be drained out of there except a little in the hose. The sloshing sound you hear in there is not old water or stored up water. It is a liquid in a balancing ring that is sealed shut but it sounds like the water is in the tub. The best way to get all the water out is to take a wet vac and **** out the water from the drain hose. Just put you hand around the 2 hoses to kind of seal it and lay it on the floor. Nothing more is really needed to move it. Just don't be too wild moving it around lol. Front load machines are usually very heavy becuase they have cement or heavy pieces to keep the basket from moving around too much in a high speed spin. Good luck
Yes, there is...The legs on the washer are adjustable, the rear legs are often ( not always ) self adjusting, make sure the legs are not stuck and that they can move freely. But the front legs can screw in and out to move the washer depending on the floor the washer is sitting on. Make sure the washer is as low to the floor as possible. When the legs are screwed out too far the washer becomes wobbly. Often on the metal style legs there are lock nuts that can be tightened to secure the legs so they don't move on you. washers where really meant to sit on a cement floor, if your washer is on a wooden floor look carefully at the strength of the floor. If the floor is moving up and down when the washer is running, the floor may not be strong enough to support the washers weight. Most main floor laundry rooms floors are nailed down, the sub-floor is more secure if the sub-floor has been screwed down. Sometimes extra support may have to be added under the flooring to add some strength