Question about Ryobi ZRTS1342L Factory-Reconditioned 14 Amp, 10" Compound Miter Saw with L

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Can't raise the saw assembly in ordr to cut wood

I know how to turn saw on but don,t know how to raise blade

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Search the rear of the saw for a locking latch or pin...

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

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Somewhere on the riser between base and saw there should be a metal pin to pull out . it may only pull out bout half inch.may half to put slight pressure down on handle while pulling pin

Posted on Dec 07, 2012

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1 Answer

How do you remove the blade on my toledo chop saw


Unplug the saw first. Then raise the guard and lower the blade onto a piece of wood to keep the blade from turning. Using a proper wrench, turn the nut in the direction the blade spins when cutting and remove the nut and blade.

Sep 04, 2014 | Saws

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I have a 12" Ridgid


if it is only 2 months old take it back and get another one. if this not an option try some loctite on bolt

Jun 27, 2011 | Ridgid Reconditioned 12 In. Compound Miter...

1 Answer

I just received a "LICOTA"


The extra brushes would likely be for the motor, and not used until the saw has LOTS of miles on it.
The allen usually backs off a clamp that holds the blade. In terms of metal and wood, the blade itself determines that. HOWEVER, Consider using and possibly distroying a WOOD blade. If there is metal in the wall, you usually do NOT want to cut that...!! I suggest cutting the drywall side first and see that there is nothing in the wall that you do not want to cut!!
The metal blade can cut wood, no worries.

Feb 13, 2011 | Saws

1 Answer

I'm a wife with a do-it-yourself knack. I recently purchased a Ryobi 10 in. BTS211 table saw. I find the manual complicated as far as how to actually use the device. Can you recommend where I can get...


I am a retired contractor.
I have a shop with a 10" table saw.
And I have opinions about safe operation.

For safety, turn saw off when making adjustments.

1) Raise blade:
There is a handle you turn to raise the blade.
If you are cutting 1/2" plywood, then set your blade at 3/4" or a bit more.
Keep blade low and away from hands.
Keep hands high and away from blade.

For 1-1/2" thick 2x4, I usually set the saw at 1" and run the board through, and then flip the board over and run it through again, taking 2 passes to make really thick cuts.

7c68409.jpg

2) Blade angle
There is a second handle you turn to set blade at an angle up to 45 degrees
Angle cannot be set if saw blade is fully raised >> lower blade to half way or less and experiment.
Angle cuts are difficult if wood is not perfectly flat and square, or too long or too short (boy is that helpful ... but cutting angles takes some experimentation)

3) Table Guide
You stand behind power saw to operate
The saw table guide is on left side of blade and clamps across the table
The guide markings show inches >>> these are usually approximate
To set guide for accuracy, measure distance from blade to saw guide, and then clamp guide down.

4) Push sticks push sticks push sticks and other safety stuff
Let me emphasize safety first last and always
A table saw will chop your fingers off in a blink
On the plus side, I hear it doesn't hurt. But OMG.
There is a very strong human instinct to reach in with your hand when working on stuff
Train your mind >> if the saw is running, do not lean or reach into the saw
If a board is stuck >>> turn off the saw and wait for full stop
If you wear baggy clothes of a loose shirt, the saw will grab you and pull you in too fast for you to react
Keep your clothes tight and your arms bare

Always use push sticks or push boards::
673c22b.jpg
Notice the saw blade is set low
Two push sticks are used to assist when cutting short board > one stick holds down the board ahead of blade, the other stick is pushing board through saw.
Keep your hands away from the blade no matter what.
The person stands behind and to the side of the board being cut.
The cut wood is supported by a catch table (in this case there are rollers)

Where to stand
Obviously you stand behind the saw to cut wood, and sometimes with long pieces, you can move in front and pull them through, and sometimes with large plywood you stand kinda back and to the side.

Why not stand directly behind a saw? Because saws throw stuff back.
When 'ripping' a board lengthwise as shown in photo above, if the saw catches the board just right, it will throw it backwards like a spear.

If a board 'binds' the saw causing saw blade to stop, then turn off saw, back up the board, and cut again.

Crosscut guide
The saw comes with a T-shaped guide that fits into a groove.
This is a 'push stick' >>> you use it to cross cut a board, and it lets you stand to the side of the saw blade so things wont flip back on you
When using the cross cut guide, remove the table guide that clamps across the saw, or push the table guide WAY back so pieces don't get caught in a bind and the blade flips up the piece and hits you in the face
Remember, the saw throws everything backwards

The saw is strong and fast, and you are best when traveling slow and without rush around your strong friend.

Oct 15, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

I can't get this saw to cut straight or square I


Band saws pull to one side on straight cuts, it's a function of the blade torque. My 14" saw pulls to the right. There's nothing you can do to stop this, you have to be aware of it so you account for it on free cuts and know to put your fence on that side so the wood pulls into the fence instead of away from it. Squaring the blade to the table is easier. Do not go by the tilt angle guide. First make absoutely sure all of your blade guides and bearings are properly alligned so they aren't pushing the blade out of line. Use a square to get it close then: using a 4" x 4" block of wood, make a light cut in the wood only deep enough to mark the wood from top to bottom. Turn the block over 180 and try to make a cut in the previous cut mark. If the cuts line up you're there. If you get a V or X you have to make adjustments to the table making sure you tighten the trunion locks tight. I had one of these, it's not a high end saw so don't expect a lot from it.

Aug 23, 2010 | Ryobi 9 in. Benchtop Band Saw

1 Answer

How can I change the circular saw in my Back & Decker Circular Saw, model: P3703 (1100 watts)


Unplug it and loosen the bolt in the middle of the blade. It's a standard thread, so turn it lefty-loosey. But you need to hold the blade from turning. That's easy by putting a screwdriver in front of a blade tooth, under the sole plate. Let the sole plate prevent the screwdriver from rising up with the blade as you turn the bolt. If your current blade has small teeth (like a plywood blade) then you can raise the sole plate as for a maximum depth of cut, then push the saw against the front edge of a workbench (or block of wood somehow held still) as if you were going to cut it. Before you remove the bolt, take note of the exact orientation of the washer (or washers)so you can replace them the same way.

Jun 18, 2010 | Black & Decker Saws

1 Answer

I have a Craftsman 10" table saw model number: 137.248830. The saw doesn't make square cuts, it is more of a problem when using the miter. I have followed the alignment procedure so that the right...


I assume that your alignment procedure is about adjusting your miter gage. But you should first verify if the blade is parallel to the miter slot (the slot the miter gage slides in). This is adjustable underneath the saw, and sometimes comes crooked from the factory or comes loose later on. To check if the blade is parallel to the miter slot you can do this.....1. unplug the saw. 2. Raise the blade as far as it will go. 3. Clamp a piece of wood to your miter gage so that it just touches the blade as close to the front of the saw as possible. 4. Use a marker and mark that spot on the blade. 5. Now slide the miter toward the back of the saw, and rotate the blade by hand so that your piece of wood hits the same spot as where you checked in the front. You can see a large misalignment by eye. But you can get a little precise by using a piece of paper between the wood and the blade as a feeler gage. Or better yet, use a drop indicator instead of the piece of wood and you can measure the difference. If this isn't as close to parallel as you are able to measure it, you need to turn the saw over and find the bolts that attach the whole assembly under there to the table top. Once you have this in alignment, you should be able to set your miter to be square against any good square. If you don't have a high quality square, you can go to a tool store (Sears or whoever) with your miter gage in hand, and set it to be square against their most expensive square. If the square is square, and the blade is parallel to the slot and it still won't cut square you either have a bad blade or there is too much play in the saw's arbor. Try to wiggle the blade side-to-side - any wiggle at all is too much.

Jan 20, 2010 | Craftsman 10" Table Saw

3 Answers

It's extremely hard to turn the handle to raise the blade. Lowering the blade is smooth and easy, but I have to apply an excess amount of pressure to turn the handle when I want to raise the blade.


If this is a new saw, return it to the store for an exchange, but if it's an older than a few months:

These contractor saws often acquire this problem. It's usually dust, specifically pine dust (it has sap thus making it stickier), on the screw or the sliding mechanism. What I do is:

  1. Unplug the saw
  2. Remove the blade
  3. Dismount the saw from its stand
  4. Lower the mechanism all the way
  5. Flip the saw over onto its table
  6. Access the screw and the lift mechanism
  7. Use a brush to remove the accumulated wood dust from the screw and the mechanism.
  8. If you have a leaf blower or access to one; blow the interior of the saw (wear eye protection always!)
  9. Do NOT oil the mechanism, this will only serve to gum everything up faster - use a dry lubricant (graphite or silicone) or none at all.
To avoid this in the future;

  1. Avoid resinous woods (not a likely solution).
  2. Blow the dust from the saw interior when finished using it (this works well) - use an air hose or a leaf blower, the leaf blower actually works best.
  3. After cutting and before stowing the saw; run the blade to its highest position and then down below the table. This pushes any dust off the mechanism and screw.
If you find little or no dust accumulation, it's possible the saw has a bent screw or binding mechanism and will require service.

Always be safe; unplug the saw and remove the blade when working on it, and always retract the blade below the table when not in use to prevent damage to the blade - or being cut by an exposed blade; they're sharp!


Mar 15, 2009 | Bosch 4000 - 07 Electric Table Saws

1 Answer

Grinder question


Use a pencil and straight edge to mark the cutting line on the wood. Place the wood on the saw table and line the mark up with the saw. Place the mark on the right side of the blade to ensure proper cutting. Plug the saw in and put on your safety goggles. Support the wood on the work surface with your left hand, placing it far from the saw blade. Place your right hand on the handle, and push the trigger to start the saw. Move the saw blade down onto the wood. Put constant pressure on the handle to slowly move the blade through the wood. Release the trigger and raise the blade once the cut is complete. Make diagonal cuts in the same manner, by marking the wood and lining the mark up just to the right of the saw blade. Continue as you would for a straight cut. Remove the wood from the saw. Unplug the chop saw and dust the sawdust off. Remove the dust bag from the back and empty it. Vacuum any remaining dust off of the saw.

Aug 27, 2008 | Dremel 10 Diamond Cut-Off Wheels Saw Disc...

1 Answer

Jig Saws Blades Types


High Speed Steel - Used for wood and light metal cutting Bi-Metal - Also used for wood and light metal cutting. Cobalt Steel - Tougher and lasts longer than Speed steel and Bi-Metal. Used for wood and metal. Carbide Grit - Strictly used to cut masonry board. Scrolling - Thinner than the regular jig saw blades and are used for tight turning cuts.

Aug 27, 2008 | Milwaukee Tool Milwaukee Orbital Jig Saw...

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