Question about Dewalt DW744S 10" Portable Table Saw with Stand

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Blade Alignment? While ripping a piece of wood the blade and splitter become tight against the finished side of the board. the long the piece the tighter it gets. the blade and fence seem to be parallel. but some thing is misaligned.

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By splitter I take it you mean fence. If this is correct there could be a couple things that I would look for. UNPLUG saw and check the blade at 0 for being inline, make sure flanges are on correctly and finally what I would look at is the adjustable table bringing the fence toward the blade. Loosen lever and move it to the first slot where the guide would go align the front of fence and lock lever then check the back of the fence to make sure it is straight. If not you would have to adjust the back rail to align it. What I made to do this is 2 of the rails from the guide slide into the slot and on the back of the saw are 2 10MM bolts that need to be loosened and the rear slide moved one way or the other after loosening the lever push the fence tight to whatever you use as a guide and snug the bolts move the fence away and then bring back rechecking alignment sometimes you might have to try a couple times but it should work. Tighten the bolts and again recheck If not let me know and I will find a manual for you to download

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

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2. Hold on to the blade tightly with one hand.
3. Put the wrench on the arbor nut and turn it in the direction you would turn it as if the wrench were turning the blade to cut wood.

If you've previously overtightened the blade, jamb a piece of wood against the teeth and the saw table top and then follow step 3.

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My dad's old craftman table saw will not cut straight. I put a new carbide tipped blade in to try to solve the problem with no luck. the wood is cut narrower in the center and it won't stay tight against...


Your problem could be one or more of... 1- Check to see that the motor mounts are secure and the motor is not moving around. 2- Check the shaft that holds the blade for the same problem if the blade is not directly mounted to the motor. If there is any "give" in the above two ways the blade could be held in place, corrections must be made to secure the blade so that it does not "wander" during the cutting procedure. 3- Be sure the fence you are using to guide your wood is set as parallel as possible to the blade so it does not cause the wood to follow another line once the wood being cut goes beyond the cutting blade. There is most likely an alignment procedure you can run through.

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I have a Craftsman 10" table saw model number: 137.248830. The saw doesn't make square cuts, it is more of a problem when using the miter. I have followed the alignment procedure so that the right...


I assume that your alignment procedure is about adjusting your miter gage. But you should first verify if the blade is parallel to the miter slot (the slot the miter gage slides in). This is adjustable underneath the saw, and sometimes comes crooked from the factory or comes loose later on. To check if the blade is parallel to the miter slot you can do this.....1. unplug the saw. 2. Raise the blade as far as it will go. 3. Clamp a piece of wood to your miter gage so that it just touches the blade as close to the front of the saw as possible. 4. Use a marker and mark that spot on the blade. 5. Now slide the miter toward the back of the saw, and rotate the blade by hand so that your piece of wood hits the same spot as where you checked in the front. You can see a large misalignment by eye. But you can get a little precise by using a piece of paper between the wood and the blade as a feeler gage. Or better yet, use a drop indicator instead of the piece of wood and you can measure the difference. If this isn't as close to parallel as you are able to measure it, you need to turn the saw over and find the bolts that attach the whole assembly under there to the table top. Once you have this in alignment, you should be able to set your miter to be square against any good square. If you don't have a high quality square, you can go to a tool store (Sears or whoever) with your miter gage in hand, and set it to be square against their most expensive square. If the square is square, and the blade is parallel to the slot and it still won't cut square you either have a bad blade or there is too much play in the saw's arbor. Try to wiggle the blade side-to-side - any wiggle at all is too much.

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When ripping a board the width becomes narrower toward the end of the board, I have checked the fence and it is aligned correctly. the splitter is also aligned, replaced the blade and it helped did not...


Several possibilities come to mind:

1) Check the alignment of the arbor -- it's possible the arbor or arbor nut are not completely true. Detailed instructions are here:
http://woodgears.ca/saw_arbor/index.html

2) Check the alignment of the blade to the miter slots. If you aligned only the fence to the miter slots, it's possible the fence may not be aligned with the blade if the blade is out of alignment.

3) You said you checked the alignment of the fence and splitter, but these are the most common causes for the problem you're having. You might want to re-check the alignment of both, using a different method. Try these methods:
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2007/09/06/table-saw-alignment-for-005/


Be methodical and follow the directions for alignment closely. The extra attention you put into aligning your saw will pay you back many times over in clean, accurate cuts.

Aug 10, 2009 | Jet Saws

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Blade Alignment?


ok yep your blade is out of alignment with the fence. It is closer to the fence at the rear than the front. You need to make the modification or adjustment to your fence, if it allows that, and then worry about the miter slots later (which should be adjusted miter slot to blade, not miter slot to fence). You might be able to adjust the miter slot to blade by moving the actual table and then securing witht he table mount bolts. Check your manual for how to align the fence.

You do want to fix that though as it can be potentially dangerous and result in kickback of the workpiece which is a rather SCARY thing, and very dangerous.

Jun 01, 2009 | Dewalt DW744S 10" Portable Table Saw with...

1 Answer

When making a straight cut with my bandsaw, the blade will


Before tuning it up, loosen the guides and wheels away and square the table to the tensioned blade. Then follow these steps in order:
  1. First, adjust the upper wheel so the blade is tracking at the center or just to the front of center of the wheel tire. (You can see this with the cover removed, and adjust it with the nut/wing nut in the back).
  2. Now, make sure the blade guides are adjusted so they don't deflect the blade to either side (when looked at from the front), so they contact the blade just behind the gullet of the teeth, but not against the hooked teeth themselves, and are just tight enough to allow the blade to run freely (including the weld). (If your guides are worn and out of flat, you may wish to dress them on a sander before adjusting them against the blade.) Adjust the guides both above and below the table. At this point, ensure that the guide bar moves up and down easily and locks into position without torqueing the guides against the blade.
  3. Finally, adjust the bearings behind the blade, so they just kiss it, and turn freely when you revolve the bandsaw wheel. They will support the back of the blade when pressure is applied against it during a cut, and help immensely to keep the blade tracking straight.
At this point, check the cut by trying to follow a straght line penciled on a board. Some blades will naturally tend to veer slightly on a diagonal, depending on how they are sharpened, and you may have to adjust your fence to compensate for this "drift".
But if you follow the steps outlined above, and have a good sharp blade to begin with, you should be able to split a line.
If you follow these tips and they prove helpful, please let us know your problem is solved. Otherwise, give us a little more detail and someone will be happy to follow up.

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