Re: Karcher dirtblaster does not oscerlate the water.
Stripped down the head of the dirt blaster by unscrewing the shaft from the end nozzle(it was quite tight). Removed the white disc from the nozzle using pliers and then cleaned out the 4 holes in the disc. Under the disc is an assembly which houses a ball bearing. I noticed that the ball bearing did not protude beyond the recess which houses it. I PUT TWO SMALL FIBRE WASHERS IN THE RECESS THEN REPLACED THE BALL BEARING. THEN REPLACED THE WHITE DICSC. Noting that the ball bearing protrude by approx 1/16th of an inch. Re-assembled and the dirt blaster now works perfectly
Re: Karcher dirtblaster does not oscerlate the water.
I fixed mine after it had exactly the same problem. Firstly I unscrewed the head assembly and cleaned out the holes with fuse wire (which did not change the problem but eliminated one possible cause) - I then noticed a single o-ring on the white plastic assembly in the nozzle itself - there was only one o-ring but two grooves to support o-rings. I moved the o-ring from the position it was in furthest from the nozzle to the position closest to the nozzle and the lance is now working beautifully.
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you will need a pump that has a greater ability to pump water thru two or more nozzles , this pump spec is known as (GPM) this number needs to be greater than all the nozzles gpm , second pump spec goes hand in hand with the first spec and that's LIFT the pumps lift (head pressure) needs to be greater than the height of highest waterfall plus 2 inches , id suggest using two valves after the pipe Tee from pump to restrict flow to the lower of the two outlets (water seeks its own level ) so the lower of the two or more outlets will receive all the flow , and last but not least the PIPE or tube size needs to be of large enough size to handle all the flow needs of your pump ,simple std pipe size flow rate charts are avail on internet easy enough so I wont go into that
if this is installed in a small rv , wow I know all about the problem with these , seems this type of pump allows one to draw water from a storage tank on board and the user provides the "power" via moving the handle up/down to draw up the water , but then when in the park you can connect fresh park water to faucet and using the same handle in opposite direction pressurized water flows out of it , first thing , its in a rv !! if inside air temp is not maintained 24/7 365 between 35F and 210F it plastic its gonna crack (mine did) and I don't know about you but my rv is outta my mind in the off season so no temp is being maintained inside it , if this is what happened then just replace it , no glue will hold up to its use ! second parks water pressures vary so carry your own water pressure regulator and use it between park and your rv ! these things only handle about 40 psi and then they crack open , and last but not least invest in some food grade rv antifreeze this is great stuff to "put up" the rv for the off season run it thru everything that gets water into it saves you tons on replacing things in the spring time
foam can be caused by only a few things one and it's most important is water chemistry as algesides and such can foam some , one should allways have a good test kit on hand for water chemisty when they have a pool, if its sensative enough it can tell you ahead of time when thiings are gone to be a problem i got mine in a pet store for fish tanks , second thing that causes foam is sometimes when filters are new theres a small amount of assembly lube that washes out into pool , if this is the case just skim it off using a towel wrapped on your normal hand skimmer a few times , there is one other case , some prankster has added soap to your pool ?
WARNING YOU MUST PRIME THE PUMP FIRST
about 3 gallons. if you don't it will burn up the shaft seal and slowly
leak water into the motor.. need more help search your area for the pool
pump repair guy and ask him for help you might be able to get the motor rebuilt, cost about $75.. pictures are a big help so have a
few on hand ready to email.. Jay the pump guy in longwood Florida
You would be better off with a brand that has better representation than Grundfos. Several of our commercial customers change to brands such as Armstrong or Bell & Gossett the first chance they get because Grudfos is less reliable and getting parts or service on them much harder.
I had the same problem I replaced 2 switches, the first failed because of leaking, the second switch just stayed triggered, with a gauge installed I got 35psi @ 1500 rpm, I really think there is a problem with the new replacement switches, I ran the tractor for about 10 hrs with the gauge installed and it maintained 35-40 psi only dropping with the PTO ingauged or the P/S shifted.
There are tow screw adjustments on the switch. One is the high shut off and the other is 'differential'. This is the one you need to adjust. It gives the 'window' that the system needs 'between' on and off.
you say it sounds like air? air passing through a pump that also has a flow of water typically souds like bb's are passing trough the pump...if this is what you are hearing you may have a bad/cracked suction line or collapsed/dried up well..no way to know for sure without actually being there. otherwise adjust pressure switch to a higher shut off. or look for a bad valve. if a valve is not opening all the way it restricts flow hence it uses less water creating a cycling effect.best if you can hook a pressure gauge to the faucet to check pressure.
Well, I am no plumber but I would think that 108 psi is a bit high for your plumbing system. I have this pump installed in my house and have the max pressure set at 50 with a PRV on the outlet side of the pump.