Burnt factory-placed fabric/foam inside Kenmore Dryer

What model Olympus camera?

I have a Maytag 9200 which is similar. There are a few ways to troubleshoot the problem. There is a sensor inside the drum which detects whether the clothes are wet, that sensor can be broken. There are two "fuses" which prevent the dryer from overheating and the third possibility is the heating element is burned out. The sensor/fuses are very inexpensive, as is the heating element. I've found it's less expensive to purchase all, and replace each until the problem is solved. In all, if you are able to do the work yourself, it's going to be less than the cost of a "housecall", or diagnostic fee. If the dryer is older, it's often less expensive, or logical to replace it rather than fix. Ebay and Amazon are great places to purchase the required parts...

Here's a previous solution offered.
http://www.fixya.com/support/t149478-kenmore_he4t_dryer_no_heat

If your Kenmore dryer has stopped producing heat, chances are the problem lies with the dryer's thermal fuse. A fire-prevention safety device, the thermal fuse is designed to disrupt the flow of electricity to the dryer's heating mechanisms if the dryer temperature reaches a predetermined maximum. Once activated, the thermal fuse must be replaced to restore the heat to your dryer. In Kenmore brand residential dryers, the thermal fuse will be located in one of two places.

Instructions

Front Panel Access
1 Unplug your Kenmore dryer from its power source. Make sure that the appliance is unplugged before proceeding.
2 Use a flathead screwdriver or putty knife to remove the dryer's bottom service panel, sometimes called the toe panel. Slide the screwdriver or putty knife along the top of the toe panel until you've located the toe panel clips. The clips are usually located about four inches in from either side of the service panel. Push down on the toe clips with the screwdriver or putty knife to release. Remove the panel and set it aside.

3 Locate the thermal fuse on your Kenmore dryer. Look for the thermal fuse directly above the dryer's motor; it looks like a white strip with two wires, and is usually mounted off to one side. See Resources for a diagram of thermal components.
Rear Access
4 Disconnect the Kenmore dryer from its power source while locating the thermal fuse.
5 Move the dryer away from the wall so that you can access the back of the appliance.
6 Use a screwdriver to remove the dryer's back panel. Set the panel and loose screws aside until you are ready to replace them.
7 Locate your Kenmore dryer's thermal fuse just above the exhaust port. The thermal fuse looks like a white strip with two connected wires.

Tips & Warnings

Clogged exhaust ports are a common cause of thermal fuse failure. While you've got your Kenmore dryer in pieces, clean out the exhaust ducts to keep it functioning at its best.

Take all proper safety precautions when working with electrical appliances. Make sure that your Kenmore dryer is unplugged before attempting to service it.

Check this link ,if you use Whirlpool Dryers:
http://www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/thermalfuse-dryer-Whirlpool-29inch-electric.html

Thanks

Good Day,
Welcome to Fixya.com. Well for the requirements here they are:
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Hope this helps you, but may I tell you to please post in English language next time, to have your questions/problems answered by more experts and a lot quicker. Not all experts here can understand Tagalog.
Thank you for using Fixya. Hope you get your passport soon.

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

I'll start by saying your post indicates it is obviously a Kenmore gas dryer, If this is a symptom where the ignitor does glow, I would be looking at the burner coils.

This is what you'll be looking for...



Once you've gain access to the coils you'll need to remove the wire harness and check the continuity.

Here's the tricky part though...many times they will ohm out ok when cool (not operating) yet as soon as there is current passing through the coil it "opens". The wire inside the coils is so fine that often it only takes a small current to "open" the circuit.

Most times it will only be one coil that fails but it is good practice to replace them both, many places used to sell them in a kit so double check with your supplier. I've attached a link here, though it may be different than your model the principles to changing the coils are the same.

As far as what part you may need and how to get it. There are a couple of places I prefer, on-line at "searspartsdirect.com" or "repairclinic.com".

Kit contains both the two wire and three wire solenoids. One solenoid is the primary and one is the safety. Both have to operate for the gas valve to open. Usually, one of them burns out as I said but you should always replace them as a set.

**unplug the appliance and turn off the gas supply before attempting any service...safety first**

The most common for Kenmore is part number 3479 at "repairclinic" as this link should provide you.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Gas-Valve-Solenoid-Set/3479

Let me know how you make out or if you require further assistance and I'll do whatever I can. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

I'll start by saying your post indicates it is obviously a Kenmore gas dryer, however if you could post the complete model number I can speak directly about possible remedies instead of generalizing.

At the risk of doing so, you mentioned you do get heat intermittently, and the drum does turn correct ?

If this is a symptom where the unit at first begins to heat but the flame drops out in a matter of seconds or minutes I would be looking at the burner coils. This is what you'll be looking for...


Once you've gain access to the coils you'll need to remove the wire harness and check the continuity.

Here's the tricky part though...many times they will ohm out ok when cool (not operating) yet as soon as there is current passing through the coil it "opens". The wire inside the coils is so fine that often it only takes a small current to "open" the circuit.

Most times it will only be one coil that fails but it is good practice to replace them both, many places used to sell them in a kit so double check with your supplier. I've attached a link here, though it may be different than your model the principles to changing the coils are the same.

As far as what part you may need and how to get it. There are a couple of places I prefer, on-line at "searspartsdirect.com" or "repairclinic.com".

Kit contains both the two wire and three wire solenoids. One solenoid is the primary and one is the safety. Both have to operate for the gas valve to open. Usually, one of them burns out as I said but you should always replace them as a set.

**unplug the appliance and turn off the gas supply before attempting any service...safety first**

The most common for Kenmore is part number 3479 at "repairclinic" as this link should provide you.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Gas-Valve-Solenoid-Set/3479
Let me know how you make out or if you require further assistance and I'll do whatever I can. Thank you for your patience while I was away for a while. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Good Evening

The sun canopy is removable from the chassis, but you can't take the fabric out of the framework. You'll need to clean any marks with mild detergent and a sponge, it isn't suitable to put it through the washing machine.
The Zapp seat fabric slides out of the chassis - it's a bit fiddly if you've never done it before, so allow yourself some time to do it. If you're in the UK follow this link for our Handy Hint guide http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.112250718852471.18255.104570846287125#!/photo.php?fbid=112252052185671&set=a.112250718852471.18255.104570846287125&type=1&theater

Headliner you mean? Do it yourself. You can buy the thin foam underpad, & spray adhesive on it, then material chosen from a fabric shop. Scrape old stuff off good, spray adhesive on cardboard like headliner, apply foam, then spray foam good, and apply fabric, let it cure overnight, wrap material around to back side, and put back in place. Follow directions on adhesive, and make sure it's o.k. (compatible) on foam & material.

no heat usually means your only getting110 volts into your dryer.....you need the full 220volts to run heaters....with voltage meter you checkwires on the plug OUTLET...or inside back cover REDwire to WHITEwire =110v.........BLACKwire to WHITEwire =110v.....REDwire to BLACKwire =220v. you probably have aBAD 220V. 30 amp circut breaker..or if still using FUSES one is burnt out (In house electric panel) or burnt off RED or BLACKwire in back of dryer.....