Samsung dryer blowing thermostats, constantly

Is there a reset button on it it usually red press it in the other is a small thermostat on machine drum they blow sometimes

could be thermistor but also may want to check the heating element, the hi-lo limit thermostat, and see if u are getting full power to the unit as if only getting 120 instead of 240 u have enough to run the motor but not the heater? thermistor located in the housing near the blower, sometimes in the drum or on the door

If it is blowing but no heat at all check the thermal fuse, cutout fuse, all thermostat's & centrifugal switch on the motor. Check the heating element also check if the heating element is grounded to the heater box. First clean the vents inside the dryer and all the way to the outside completly. Hope this does the job

3-5 ACCESS TO THE BLOWER WHEEL OR THERMOSTATS

To get to the blower wheel, remove the back of the dryer.

The blower wheel is under the bottom of the lint screen duct to your left, as you look at the back of the dryer.

The operating thermostats are at the blower wheel outlet.

In electric models, the hi-temperature cutout thermostat is mounted to the heat riser.

3-6 TEMPERATURE CONTROLS AND HI-TEMP SAFETIES

These clothes dryer machines use operating thermostats to control the temperature inside the drum, and hi-limit thermostats to prevent overheating of the dryer drum.. Many machines also have extra temperature controls, such as bias thermostats and heaters, hi-temperature cutoffs, and thermal fuses.

Bias thermostats are just like regular operating thermostats, except that they are mounted inside a bias heater. When the bias heater is energized, it generates a small amount of heat, which causes the operating thermostat to open sooner, keeping the dryer drum cooler inside. Thus a bias heater allows a single operating thermostat to act like both a hi-temp and a lo-temp operating thermostat.

A thermal fuse is found on the blower outlet, right next to the operating thermostat(s.) This fuse will blow when too high a temperature is sensed at the outlet; usually when one of the operating thermostats has failed. If it blows, the motor may not start, or you may get no heat (no voltage to the burner.)

A thermal cut-off is mounted on the clothes dryer heater box. It is a back-up for the hi-limit thermostat. Whenever you replace it, you should replace the hi-limit thermostat, too. A high-temperature condition causes it to open, an overheated grounded heat element may also cause it to open.

always use caution around electrical appliances
electric dryer-runs but will not heat
1.loose wiring--check terminals & wiring
2.defective thermostat--replace
3.defective centrifugal switch in motor--replace switch--check linkage in motor
4.defective timer--replace
5.open heater element--replace

gas dryer
1.faulty ignition or reset valve or thermocouple
2.thermostat

if its heated electrically, not by gas,then it sounds like the heating element has shorted to the case and this would blow the breaker

This one isn't going to be easy, you've already replaced the major things. I'm guessing there's a crack in some connector, or other defect, that heats up like the element and opens up- giving the same symptoms. It could be a faulty connection in the power feed to the element connector, or any other connection en route to it. You might see something suspicious. If you have some electronic skills, you might run the dryer until it happens, then quickly disconnect it, and while it's still hot, ohm out all power connections and wiring that could affect the element. You might get lucky and find the open line, being able to hone in on the bad connection, etc. Good luck!

your cycling thermostat needs changed too. the thermal fuse is your last safety measure that goes, which means your cycling thermostat is not shutting down the heat element once it detects the right temp hot air in the blower housing so it let the heat element glow until either the high-limit sensor shuts the heat down or the thermal fuse blows. Change the cycling thermostat and good luck

I know you said the fuse box is fine but check and see if you have 220 volts at the dryer cord we need to start there let me know what you find
bill

There is not a reset button on an electric dryer that I know of. If a dryer is blowing air at all, that tells me that the blower assembly and drum motor are working. If you have not heat it is generally caused one of the following:

1. Bad thermal cut-out - located near the heating element housing. Should read a SHORT (0 ohms on an ohm meter) if good. If bad, it is generally a good idea to replace the TCO along with the Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted right next the TCO in most cases) because the TCO is designed to protect the thermostat and heating element. If the TCO fails, it is likely that the thermostat could also be damaged.

2. Hi-Limit Thermostat failure - located near the heating element housing. The thermostat opens when the internal heat reaches about 157 degrees (on most dryers). This helps regulate the dryer temperature and helps protect the heating element. If it reads a constant OPEN (infinity reading on an ohm meter), replace it along with the TCO (as mentioned above).

3. Bad Heating Element - located under the drum on some dryer models and in the rear on others. The element should read about 9-11 ohms if good. If they go bad, the element will generally burns itself OPEN.

I will need you model number (located near the dryer door opening) in order to give you better advice on how to access the inside of the dryer. Post back with comments and let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

PS I hope I didn't insult your intelligence, but some people are little more saavy than others, so I try to explain things in the simplest of terms.