Question about Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer
I replaced the heating element but no change. Where is the thermal fuse or thermostat, these are the only other things that I can think of to check. Where are they located and are there any other suggestions.
The thermal cut-out (TCO) and Hi-Limit Thermostat are the two additional items you need to check for a no heat problem. The Hi-Limit thermostat is small round component located near the terminal leads of the heating element on the heater box. The TCO will be located at the opposite end of the heater box and is similar in shape and size. Both components should read a short (0 ohms) if good. There is a drawing you can refer to at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Bulkhead" heading for item number 6. These components are often sold as a set and should be replaced at the same time. Do not get the TCO confused with the Thermal Fuse (item 19). If the Thermal Fuse were bad, the dryer would not run at all. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
PS Before you jump headlong into this repair job, did you verify the voltage at the wall receptacle? You should read 220-240VAC across the two hot terminals. If you are only reading 110-120VAC, this will give you the same symptoms as the dryer drive motor only uses 120VAC to run, while the heating circuits require the full 220. You need to check the voltage at the receptacle and at the terminal block in the back of the dryer to verify the power cord is good.
Posted on Feb 20, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 06, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer
Jan 25, 2010 | Speed Queen AES28AWF Electric Dryer
Jan 24, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers
Jan 18, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer
Jan 18, 2010 | GE Dryers
Jan 17, 2010 | Dryers
Sep 23, 2009 | Whirlpool LER7646E Dryer
Jul 31, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers
Mar 06, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer
92 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: