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GE Washer Model whdrr418e1ww overflows the tub!

Hi,
I have a washer that either continuously fills and drains tub or fills and overflows the tub. Bad news on the second issue trust me. GE whdrr418e1ww is the model of the washer.
Can you steer me on what to check on? Thanks, Jerry

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  • Anonymous May 06, 2009

    water level must set to less than large, every time my son changed the water level to pass large, i have a flood. map up is a pain.



    timer also goes wild on me also, replaced with a new timer, a month later it happened again, wont stop or wont start to next ( after wash anfd wont spin and to rainse cycle.



    brought in 2005 only 4 years old.

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This advice is for a washer that fills and will not shut off, resulting in an overflow. Or, water is leaking from the washer while filling. The symptoms can apply to either a TOP LOADER or FRONT LOADER washer. This may be able to save you from an expensive service call by making these simple visual checks.

Water Does Not Shut Off and Overflows: The water level in a washer is controlled by the Pressure Switch. The switch is usually cylindrical in shape and has an electrical connection and an air hose attached. In many cases, the small air hose comes loose from the Pressure Switch fitting and/or falls off. This air hose is required to detect the air pressure from the wash tub as tub fills. With no air pressure, the switch will not function and the result will be a wash tub that fills continuously to the point of overflowing. The same would be true, if the air hose has any cracks, splits or holes in it.

Water Leaking While Filling: The other end of this hose runs to the air dome fitting on the side of the wash tub. If the lower end of the hose comes off, the water will begin to spill onto the floor under the washer, but the tub will not fill.

What to Look For: Check for the obvious. Make sure the air hose is still attached to the pressure switch and air dome. Then, inspect the entire length of the hose, paying particular attention to areas where chaffing may occur and at the points where the hose connects to the pressure switch and air dome. Vibrations from the washer can cause some wear if the hose is rubbing against anything, and the ends of the hose can stretch over time and not seal properly.

On most top loaders the Pressure Switch is located inside the operator console behind the knob that controls the water level. This knob is commonly referred to as the “Load Level”, “Load Size” or “Water Level”. On front loader washers the pressure switch location is usually located in the back of the washer behind the wash tub, or along the interior cabinet wall adjacent to the wash tub.

How to Correct: If the hose has slipped off, cut about ½” off the end of the hose and reattach to the pressure switch and/or air dome fitting. Take a small zip tie and place it around the hose at the point where it connects to the fitting. DO NOT over tighten as this can damage the air hose fitting. Just make the zip tie snug enough to keep the air hose from sliding off. If the hose has any cracks or holes, you can attempt to seal them by using electrical tape. Replacement tubing can be purchased at any hardware store.

NOTE: This is not an all inclusive fix, as the Pressure Switch can fail in some cases and cause similar symptoms. This is merely a preliminary check for a common occurrence that I have discovered. It can give symptoms of a major problem, resulting in a call for a repairman, only to turn out to be a simple fix that any Do-It-Yourselfer should be able to check and correct themselves. I hope this information is found to be helpful and saves many of you a future service call.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 13, 2010

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Ftf2140fs1 water fills up tub and over flows with door open when not using it


Hi Greg Meigs - If your washer will not stop filling up with water and overflows the tub, check for one of these problems:

1) Turn off the electricity to the washer. If the water *stopped* filling when power was disconnected, the problem would usually be in the control system of the machine. If the water still continues, then the plunger in the water valve is either stuck open or slow to close. Try turning the water faucets off and on a few times. This small joltmight unstick the water valve. If not, it will need replacing.

2) There could be a problem with the water level switch. Call in a professional.

3) There is a pressure switch hose that is attached to an air dome. This switch tells the washer that there is water in the tub and allows the agitator to start.

- Remove the control panel and you will notice a small hose. See if it popped off of the air dome. If it did, secure it with a zip tie.

If water flow continues, but drains out immediately, then raise the drain hose above the highest water level line of the tub. Do not seal the drain hose to the discharge pipe. This could cause a siphoning action.

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Hotpoint washing machine model vbxr1090b2ww leaking from bottom of unit


Here are some solutions.


Hope this helps you...Jim...Please leave a comment...Thanks!
LEAKS ALL THE TIME Is your GE washer leaking all the time, even when not in use? If so the problem is the fill hoses or the valve. Look behind the washer to see if water is coming from the hoses. If not, take the cover off to the control panel. Once off, you should see if the water valve and if there is leakage - it needs replacing (if it is leaking). This is the most popular water valve for GE top-loading washers made after 1995 and the part number is WH13X86 Order Here. show?id=6bjnatppuce&bids=92089.1&type=10. Note that some models have a water valve with more than two coils. In this case, you will need to order the valve by model number at AppliancePartsPros.comshow?id=6bjnatppuce&bids=92089.10000015&type=3&subid=0 Buy Fill Hoses Here. show?id=6bjnatppuce&bids=92089.1&type=10
LEAKS DURING FILL CYCLE Is your GE washer leaking during the fill cycle? If so the problem may be in the valve. Follow instructions above, only this time start the fill cycle before looking at the valve.
If your washer overflows with water during fill cycle your problem is the water level control or the water valve. If you must cut the water off from the house plumbing to stop the water then there is no need for testing, just replace the water valve. First, you need to turn on the washer. The washer should start to fill with water, now cut the washer off and on repeatedly (note to yourself whether the water turned off every time). If it does cut off every time you cut the washer off, then it's most likely in the water level control. If it keeps running after you cut the washer off then, the water valve is bad and needs replacing. (Note that the valve can stick intermittently so it still may be bad if it passed the test) Water valves can be purchased at AppliancePartsPros.comshow?id=6bjnatppuce&bids=92089.10000015&type=3&subid=0
If the water valve doesn't stick in the first test then you need to check the water level control. First, remove the front of washer (insert butter knife between the top and the front pushing on the clips) then look on the side of the tub and you should see a tube attached to a box. Remove the tube (make sure all the water is out of the tub) look in the tube to see if is stopped up. Often it will stop up near the end. If it is, you can clean it out with a toothpick. Once it's clean, reinstall it and your washer is fixed. If the tube is not stopped up reinstall the tube. Now set the water level control on the lowest setting and start filling the washer with water. If the water stops when the tub is approximately half full (this varies with every model) turn it up to the next level (you may have to reset it). Repeat until the tub is full. If at any the water level gets above the last row of holes in the tub, unplug the washer. If the water stops running when you unplug the washer, replace the water level control. If the water doesn't stop, turn the water off at the wall then replace water valve. Water level contorls and water valves can be purchased at AppliancePartsPros.comshow?id=6bjnatppuce&bids=92089.10000015&type=3&subid=0 . LEAKS DURING WASH Is your GE washer leaking during wash? If so the problem is the tub seal (seals around the transmission where it goes through the tub), drain hoses (including the tub to pump hose) or the pump. First take the front off the washer (insert butter knife between the top and the front, pushing on the clips) then start the fill cycle. Now start watching until you see a leak. If the leak is coming from the tub seal, the transmission needs to be replaced (note that changing the transmission is expensive and takes special tools, so you may consider replacing the washer). If the leak is coming from the drain hose or the pump you need to replace it. If you don't see it leak at all, your soap may be the problem. To check this fill the washer with water and the amount of soap you normally would use. Then start the washer and watch the tube coming from the left back of the tub (the overflow pipe). If soapsuds come out of the overflow pipe then try cutting down on your soap or switch to another brand. This may fix your problem. These parts can be purchased at AppliancePartsPros.comshow?id=6bjnatppuce&bids=92089.10000015&type=3&subid=0
LEAKS DURING PUMP OUT Is your GE washer leaking during pump out? If so the first thing you should look at is the drainpipe (to your house plumbing). Fill the washer with water, and then turn it to spin and start it. Now while it's pumping, look at your drainpipe if water backs out (it may not back unless you have soap in the tub), then the problem is in your plumbing. If it doesn't, follow the same steps as above in "leaks during wash." Only this time watch for leaks during pump out as well.

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The washer leaked water. It is about 8 yrs old and was working just fine til tonite. It didnt leak from the supply hoses or drain hose, I tipped it over and the outside of the drum was wet like it...


If it looks like the water overflowed then it could be a bad pressure switch the way to test it out is just fill it with water and set the washer on small load if it continues to put in water past the small load setting then you have a bad pressure switch







AST Appliance Repair in San Diego

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You might have a partially clogged drain past your drain hose
(In the wall etc)
Thats overflowing behind the washer.
Watch the drain for a few washings and see if it overflows
It may be second or third or fifth load. Its hard to catch
If this was helpful please rate me.
IMUFO2
Leo Ponder Appliance-Tyler,Texas
imufo2@sbcglobal.net

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1 Answer

Water dose not stop runing and go into wash mode


Does your washer constantly attempt to fill and never does? Or, does the washer continue to fill and overflow?

If the washer is constantly trying to fill, but your water level does not change, you may have a condition known as siphoning. Siphoning occurs when you don't have a proper air gap on the drain line and the washer will actually drain as it attempts to fill. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575830-how_to_prevent_washer_siphoning

If your washer fills, won't shut off and then overflows, this is caused by either a pressure switch malfuction, or a water inlet valve that won't shut off. The following link explains how to diagnose the problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3753517-whirlpool_top_load_washer_fills_when_not

I know the link is for a problem where the washer continues to fill even when it is not in use, but this problem occurs while the washer is running as well. The method of determing the cause is the same. In many cases, an overflow problem is caused by the air hose slipping off the pressure switch. Without the air hose, the pressure switch never detects the pressure differntial from the wash tub as it fills and won't shut off.

Read through the links provided and let me know if you have any questions. If the conditions I have described do not match your symptoms, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can help you determine the source of the problem. Please include your complete MODEL NUMBER. I hope you find this information helpful.

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1 Answer

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you need to clean the pressure swith hose on the lft side of tub small rubber hose stop use in liqid soap

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1 Answer

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Try this. With the wash tub empty, start to fill with water. Without turning washer off, unplug the washer from wall.

If water filling stops (hot and cold), then you are looking at a bad timer assembly. Replacement isn't that hard, parts can be difficult to find though.

If water continues to fill, your valve body / solenoid assembly is likely full of lime-scale. Easily replaced.

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1 Answer

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Pat it sounds like you pressure switch or hose to it is bad.your washer isnt leaking its overflowing the tub right?I dont understand the rest of your question so ill leave it alone..

Nov 15, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Started to leak from clear (OVERFLOW) TUBE in backside of washer what could be the cause?


Geo,

The answer to your question is most definitely NOT what you want to hear, but I'll go ahead and deliver the bad news... (don't hate the messenger, OK?)

The transmission is shot. There, I said it.

Here's what is going on... See? When the washer fills and begins to agitate, the inner tub (where the clothes are) is supposed to "lock". The only thing that's supposed to actually move in there is the agitator. OK... now when the washer advances to "spin mode", the tranny switches gears (think of it like going from "drive" to "reverse") and the inner tub unlocks and is spun up by the tranny.

Your inner tub is not being locked by the transmission when it's in "agitate". When this happens, the inner tub begins to rotate with every stroke of the agitator (the thing in the middle of the tub). So, the tub continues to rotate... faster and faster, until the water in the tub rises because of centrifugal force. Eventually, the water rises high enough to overflow... that's where your overflow tube (and the leak you see) comes into play.

OK, Geo... there's good news if your washer is less than 5 years old. Can you believe it? Good news! The transmission is covered by a 5 year warranty. Yeahhh! Don't worry if you don't have you original paperwork for it. You don't need it. All you'll need to do is copy the exact model and serial numbers down (<-- they're located above and behind the control panel on a white sticker) and holler at GE (1-800-GE-CARES). Give 'em the M# and S# and they'll be able to tell if it's covered or not. Just tell 'em that you had an appliance repair company diagnose you machine with a "failed transmission" and you need to schedule a service guy to come replace it.

If it more than 5 years old, you ask? Well my friend... you are the proud owner of a very large boat anchor cuase that's all it worth right now. The reason being is that a transmission replacement (if you hire it done) would cost far more than the washer is actually worth. Obviously, it's possible to replace on your own... but I would NOT recommend it unless you are very very comfortable with tolls and have many of them accessible to you. The transmission itself would set you back about ~$140.00 (which is more than you'd spend on a good used Whirlpool washer from craigslist or classified ads).

So there ya go. I hope that the information/news I gave you was enough for you to decide which direction to go from here. If it was, please rate my solution here as "It solved my problem". Thanks for using FixYa!

SG

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May 17, 2009 | General Electric WHDRE526EWW Top Load...

1 Answer

Water leaking during drain and spin


Hi!

You Need to check the following--

The fill hoses : These are located behind the washer and are connected to the water mixing valve and faucets. Pin holes and cracks on the hoses may cause them to leak.



The water valve: The water mixing valve is located behind the washer. The fill hoses connect to the water mixing valve. Inside of the valve is that the water gets directed to the filling spout. Water leaks happens when the valve develop pin holes or cracks. Bad fill hoses or water valve could be the reason why the washer is leaking water.


The Filling spout: Is just a directing part, this part directs the water from the water valve to the tank. Pin holes and cracks is what make this part to leak.


The tank : The major cause for the tank to leak is through holes or cracks that the tank develops because of vibration or metal items hitting the tank during the spin cycle.


The tub seal : The tub seal is made of rubber, it is connected between the transmission post and the center of the tank. Leaks developed when the seal gets worn out and it looses the ability to make a good seal between the transmission and the tank. A crack tank or worn out tub seal could be the reason why the washer is leaking water.


The overflow tube : This tube is use to direct the water away from any electrical parts like the motor in case of an overflow cause by a bad water mixing valve or bad water level switch.


The pump : The pump job is to remove the water from the tank to the drain pipe. This pump has an electric motor and an impeller. When the pump motor is turning, any water that falls in to the impeller, is push out to the drain pipe.

Most leaks are cause by a worn out seal between the front pump housing and the rear one.


The drain hose : The drain hose is made of hard plastic and some times it develops pin holes and cracks leaks. Bad pump or drain hose could be the reason why the washer is leaking water.

Thanks for using FixYa and do rate the solution as Fixya if found helpful.

Rylee

Apr 03, 2009 | GE Washing Machines

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