Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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"F" code followed by "dl" and machine beeped, stopped and won't s

Recently had F11, had repair man come and clean drain...
worked for one week, now 3 minutes after begin of cycle, began beeping, "f", then "dl" flashing, not in manual, and can't get to completely cancel. I have unplugged at the moment? What does the "dl" mean?

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1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.


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Posted on Sep 13, 2010

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For Miele Dishwasher G2470SCVI Need help with remaining water in the bottom. Model# G2470 SCV1 SF Type-HG03. Runs through the entire cycle,long,short ect..everything is clean and dishes look great but


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Belt, Water Pump Although few dishwashers have a water pump belt, if the dishwasher won't drain there might be a worn or broken water pump belt. After removing the lower kick panel the motor can be seen in the front, the water pump belt is on the bottom of the motor.

Drain Pump If the dishwasher won't drain, the drain pump might be defective. Test the pump motor with an Ohm meter. Drain pumps are not repairable, if it's defective it will need to be replaced.

Drain Impeller The drain impeller is attached to the pump and pushes the water out of the dishwasher, through the drain tube and into the garbage disposer or drain line. If the dishwasher won't drain, the drain impeller might be broken or worn out. Replace both the impeller and seal at the same time.

Drain Solenoid Kit If the dishwasher won't drain, the drain solenoid kit might need to be replaced. The drain solenoid is an actuator that opens a flap to allow the water to drain.
Drain Valve The drain valve can get clogged with debris and should be cleaned out if the dishwasher won't drain. If it seems clear of debris but won't actuate, it will need to be replaced. The drain valve is not repairable.
Pump and Motor Assembly If the dishwasher won't drain, the pump and motor assembly might be defective. If the motor runs during the drain cycle, check for a blockage in the drain line. If the motor won't run during the drain cycle or if it just hums when it should be running, the pump and motor assembly might need to be replaced.

Clogged or Improperly Installed Garbage Disposer If the dishwasher won't drain and the garbage disposer was installed recently, the installer might have forgotten to knock out the drain plug from this disposer. All garbage disposers are sold with a solid plug in the drain tube for situations where a dishwasher isn't connected. However, if the dishwasher is connected, the plug will need to be removed. If the disposer wasn't replaced recently, remove the dishwasher drain hose from the disposer and clean out both the fitting on the disposer and the end of the drain hose. These are the most common places to find an obstruction if the dishwasher won't drain.

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Check Valve If the dishwasher won't drain the check valve might be stuck closed. The check valve is a small plastic device which prevents water from returning to the dishwasher after it has drained. If the valve gets stuck closed, it will prevent the water from draining. The check valve is the device that the drain hose is attached to on the dishwasher
Check Ball If the dishwasher won't drain the check ball might be stuck. The check ball is a small plastic ball in the check valve which prevents water from returning to the dishwasher after it has drained. If the ball gets stuck, it will prevent the water from draining also. The check valve is the device that the drain hose is attached to on the dishwasher.

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Sep 28, 2012 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Washing machine stops after wash cycle beeps flashes f11 or dL error


Might be the pump is plugged Remove the lower front panel and if you see a large white thumb screw attached to the pump remove by unscrewing to the left and clean.

Feb 27, 2011 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

F11 and DL failure codes


The F11 error indicates a communications error between the CCU (Central Control Unit) and the MCU (Motor Control Unit). Check the wiring harness and connections at both the CCU and MCU. Unplug them and check for corrosion on the terminals / pins, clean them if necessary then reconnect them securely. As there is a D11 error as well it indicates a problem with the door lock relay, faulty hall sensor, faulty CCU or faulty MCU. If you still have the problem then call in a repair man to fix it.

Sep 11, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

The washer beeps and flases f dl


it probably flashes also f11....to correct that problem , you must replace CCU board (upper board) and latch assembly...

F11: CCU board
FDL: latch problem

Jul 03, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

"F" code then "dl" flashes, won't continue


"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

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Feb 20, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Fdl code message


>"dL" indicates Door Lock Failure: dL flashes if the following conditions occur:
Door lid is not closed completely due to interference.
Wash media buildup is preventing the lock bolt from extending.
Machine/motor control detects open door lid switch when attempting to lock.
Machine/motor control cannot determine if door lock is in a locked state.
Check for lock interference with lid or lock bezel


Jan 09, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

How do i find what an error code means?


if that is a whirpool or kenmore remove bottom panel look for tech sheet in plactic bag codes are in it

Sep 02, 2008 | Washing Machines

3 Answers

F-2 Error Code


f2 is long drain so your already on the right track. check and replace drain pump.

May 24, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Error F11


Plug off the wall. Shaking & vibration of your washer causes circuit board connections to become loose; due to faulty manufacture. Remove the 3 or 4 screws from the back & take off the top cover to secure the connections, make sure they are tight. This applies for the F11 & F dl codes. Works for certain machines, dont see why it wont for yours.

Dec 10, 2007 | Kenmore 46462 Front Load Washer

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