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The chuck on almost all drill presses is held on by friction only by use of the tapered fit you mention. Make sure both the spildle tip and the chuck hole surfaces are completely clean and dry. Set your table so when you move the spindle down it will contact the table. With the drill OFF, put the chuck on the spindle and press it down on with the table as hard as you can without bending any handles or gears. This should be sufficient to hold it in place.
it needs to be reseated and to do that you will need to clean the shaft and the internal portion of the chuck with something like brake clean and use a paper towel to wipe off the residue, then move the table out of the way and get a block of wood and hammer, retract the jaws fully and position the chuck and put the block of wood under it and strike it with a hammer a couple times this should take care of your problem
Did you already read your manual for that drill press?if your manual is available there is an instruction on how the drill press work..I think the problem their is the shaft that can be found at the right of the drill press..maybe the error is that the wiring of the shaft.
I have one of these.
Here you will see how the drill is mounted in the device. Position (b) around the handle and tighten it up untill drill seats firmly in place. Take a speed square, or normal square and eyeball or measure the drill to see if its straight. Use the alignment adjustment (A) to fine tune the drill to get the drill bit straight and square. Tighten up all the nuts holding drill in device and recheck the drill bit for straightness.. Put your work under the drill, press the trigger and lock into place to get the drill to constantly run without finger on trigger, pull down the press lever to drill your hole... Hope this helps!
No there isnt. the chuck has a taper fit and needs to be cleaned and installed correctly. Use something like a brake clean or carb cleaner and spray the shaft and the internal socket of the chuck, wipe both clean with a paper towel and then move the table out of the way and with the chuck jaws fully retracted use a piece of wood and "seat the chuck" I usually strike the wood a couple of times. this should work as long as the tapers are not that worn.
Not sure if you ever found the manual for this model number. I just picked one up at a garage sale last weekend and it actualy had the manual with it. Doesn't really go into any overhaul of the machine, but does have a exploded view of the parts.
you can try using something like brake clean and spraying both the shaft and internal socket and then wiping with a paper towel. next move the table out of the way and place the shaft back into the socket with the chuck jaws retracted take a block of wood and a hammer and "tap" seat the tapers together. I would "tap" it a couple times and this should work if they are not worn excessively.
get something like brake clean and spray both parts the shaft and internal socket and then wipe with a paper towel. Next put the shaft into the socket and "tap" into place with a block of wood on the drill chuck with the jaws retracted. You might have to "tap" a little hard if you know what I mean but this will seat the tapers and you should not have a problem for a while.
I have a couple of drill presses that have a quill lock which fixes it in place. I am not familiar with your machine, but this may be an issue.
It may be a large wing type nut on the shaft that the handle is on.
It is also possible that the quill is jammed. There is a small gear on the shaft that the handles rotate that fits on a rack type gear that moves the quill. This could happen if the quill is all the way down and passed the gear.
It is also possible that this is jammed or has something stuck in it.
Release the belts and check if you can turn the chuck by habd, if the chuck won;t turn, two things could be wrong, 1) the quill bearings are bad or 2) the shaft that runs down thru the quill could ve rusted causing a restriction, if that's the case, WD 40 should loosen it.