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eyohe
Please read and understand these entire posts and
collect all tools & materials before beginning this project.
Materials needed:
2 - PVC 1-1/2" compression x
1-1/2" female Schedule 40 solvent
weld trap adapters.
2 - 1 1/2"PVC-DWV ADJ P- traps
(serviceable)
1 - PVC 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 sanitary Tee
1 - 90 degree PVC short turn elbow
1 - 4' piece
of 1 1/2 PVC sched. 40 pipe
1 - 4oz can Oatey PVC Regular Clear
Advanced Cement
1 - 4oz can Oatey PVC Clear
Primer
1 - Small container plumbers putty (To be used
as a gasket like bushing between the disposers basket strainer and the sinks
surface)
Tools that are needed:
Safety glasses
Latex gloves
Hacksaw
Torpedo level
Measuring tape
Channel locking pliers
Sharpie type pen/marker
Old work rags to clean the edges of freshly cut
PVC pipe of loose debris.
Old newspaper to protect your floor/work area
and the floor of the sink base.
Any other tools listed with the disposal
installation instructions.
Comments:
Feb 21, 2009
- 1. Lets first start with removal of all of the under
sink plumbing and Cutting the existing 1 1/2" PVC to aprox. 2" protruding
from the back wall, then dry-fitting (attaching WITHOUT glue) the
11/2" sanitary "T" .( paying close attention to the
flow direction) leaving you with the one basket strainer & tail piece
attached opposite the "disposer" location and "T"
fitting at the back wall
2. Moving to the "disposer" install it as instructed with the turned down
fitted ELL piece toward the back.
3. Assemble a trap and the trap adapter with a temporary short
piece of pipe dry fitted close to the trap inlet, and then snugly attach it to
the disposer's ELL piece. (so the parts can be spun or moved if
needed)
Note: A longer piece of pipe can be added later, between the trap
and the trap adapter when the proper trap height is established.
4. Now measure the distance from the back wall to the to rear edge
of the flange of the "T" that is pointing toward the general
direction of the disposer. Record that measurement.
5. With the trap exit port pointing toward the back wall, hold a 1
1/2" ELL to the back wall behind the disposer with one port
facing the trap and the other port facing the "T" fitting. Measure
the distance between the trap flange and the 1 1/2" ELL flange,
allowing for what’s called "make-up (which means the consideration for the
length of pipe needed to fit inside and bottom out in to the flange it is
attaching to) Now record that measurement and subtract the recorded measurement
from step #4
Feb 21, 2009
- 6. Cut a piece of 1 1/2" pipe to the length achieved in step
#5, (this piece will now be titled as pipe "B" for reference
purposes) then dry-fit that piece into the flange of the 1 1/2" Ell, then
fit that assy. in to the flange of the trap pointing the exit port of the ELL
toward the "T"
7. So far, if all seems uniform and the locking nuts for the trap
are accessible for the operation of the channel locking pliers (enough room for
tightening) Measure the distance between the flange of the "T" to the
flange of the 1 1/2" ELL allowing for "make-up". Now cut a piece
of 1 1/2" pipe to that length (this piece will now be titled as pipe
"A" for reference purposes) and dry-fit it in to the flanges of the
"T" and the ELL.
8. At this point place the torpedo level on top of the pipe
"A" to make sure it has "proper fall" (meaning a SLIGHT
decline toward the exit, which assures the waste will flow out of the pipe
toward the "T") You can slide the trap up and down on the turned
down fitted ELL piece of the "disposer” to achieve this goal or you
may need to add a longer piece of pipe between the trap and the trap adapter.
NOTE: The standard for "proper fall" is 1/4"
of decline per foot, which is roughly a 1/4 bubble on the torpedo level
(meaning 1/4 of the bubble is past the bracket line on the high side)
9. With all parts in place use the sharpie pen to make line-up
marks at each connection (on the flange and on the pipe) disconnect all parts
and begin the permanent installation in this order: apply primer to the inside
of all flanges and approx. 2" of coverage on the outside of both ends of
pipes A, B & the 2" stub at the back wall, allow all parts to dry.
Apply glue only to the primer surface of pipes and flanges directly before assembly.
Glue & Attach "T" fitting to stub and line up the marks -Glue
& Attach pipe A to ELL fitting and line up the marks
- Glue & Attach pipe B to ELL fitting and line up marks
- Glue &Attach pipe A to "T" fitting and line up the marks -
loosen and divide the trap in to two parts then Glue &attach the trap
Ell piece to pipe B and line up the marks. loosen the nut and slide the other
trap section on to the disposer's ELL piece and reassemble the trap.
Recheck pipe A for proper fall (as described in step #8) then tighten all
locking nuts.
10. Assemble remaining trap (dry fit) and install on to the tail
piece of the second sink then point the trap exit port toward and in line with
strait inlet port of the "T" fitting, Measure the distance between
the trap flange and the "T" flange, allowing for "make-up"
Dry fit the pipe in to the trap and the "T" make the line up marks
and disassemble then permanently assemble these parts typically as has been
described above not forgetting the proper fall.
Recheck locking nuts, then run water in both sinks and check fore
leaks.
I hope this helps...
Any questions feel free to ask...
