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1 drain pipe with 2 traps

ISE recommends a separate trap for the disposer, but I only have 1 drain line out. The T fittings I have seen are meant to be vertical, which I do not have room to do

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  • eyohe Feb 20, 2009

    double sink, 1 1/2 PVC, out the back through the drywall on the non disposal side. I'm now thinking maybe a T with the water sink going into the disposal outlet, rather than the disposal going into the water drain.(Which would line up with the existing plumbing)

  • Arthur Bayne May 11, 2010

    Please describe your situation in more detail.

    Are you working with a single or double sink base?

    What size & type of existing drain pipe is installed? cast iron, steel, copper, PVC

    Where does the drain pipe exit the S/B? back, side, or bottom

    Any other details you feel might be important...

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  • 152 Answers

Eyohe

Please read and understand these entire posts and collect all tools & materials before beginning this project.
 
Materials needed:
 
2 - PVC 1-1/2" compression x 1-1/2" female Schedule 40 solvent        weld trap adapters.
 
2 - 1 1/2"PVC-DWV ADJ P- traps (serviceable)
 
1 - PVC 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 sanitary Tee 
 
1 - 90 degree PVC short turn elbow 
 
1 - 4' piece of 1 1/2 PVC sched. 40 pipe
 
1 - 4oz can Oatey PVC Regular Clear Advanced Cement
 
1 - 4oz can Oatey PVC Clear Primer
 
1 - Small container plumbers putty (To be used as a gasket like bushing between the disposers basket strainer and the sinks surface)
 
Tools that are needed:
 
Safety glasses
Latex gloves
Hacksaw
Torpedo level
Measuring tape
Channel locking pliers
Sharpie type pen/marker
Old work rags to clean the edges of freshly cut PVC pipe of loose debris.
Old newspaper to protect your floor/work area and the floor of the sink base.
Any other tools listed with the disposal installation instructions.
       

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

  • Arthur Bayne Feb 21, 2009

    1. Lets first start with removal of all of the under
    sink plumbing and
     Cutting the existing 1 1/2" PVC to aprox. 2" protruding
    from the back wall, then dry-fitting (attaching WITHOUT glue) the
    11/2" 
    sanitary "T" .( paying close attention to the
    flow direction) leaving you with the one basket strainer & tail piece
    attached opposite the "disposer" location and "T"
    fitting at the back wall



     


    2.  Moving to the "disposer" install it as instructed with the turned down
    fitted ELL piece toward the back.



     


    3. Assemble a trap and the trap adapter with a temporary short
    piece of pipe dry fitted close to the trap inlet, and then snugly attach it to
    the disposer's ELL piece. (so the parts can be spun or moved if
    needed) 



    Note: A longer piece of pipe can be added later, between the trap
    and the trap adapter when the proper trap height is established.



     


    4. Now measure the distance from the back wall to the to rear edge
    of the flange of the "T" that is pointing toward the general
    direction of the disposer. Record that measurement.



     


    5. With the trap exit port pointing toward the back wall, hold a 1
    1/2" ELL to the back wall behind the disposer with one port
    facing the trap and the other port facing the "T" fitting. Measure
    the distance between the trap flange and the  1 1/2" ELL flange,
    allowing for what’s called "make-up (which means the consideration for the
    length of pipe needed to fit inside and bottom out in to the flange it is
    attaching to) Now record that measurement and subtract the recorded measurement
    from step #4



     



  • Arthur Bayne Feb 21, 2009

    6. Cut a piece of 1 1/2" pipe to the length achieved in step
    #5, (this piece will now be titled as pipe "B" for reference
    purposes) then dry-fit that piece into the flange of the 1 1/2" Ell, then
    fit that assy. in to the flange of the trap pointing the exit port of the ELL
    toward the "T"



     


    7. So far, if all seems uniform and the locking nuts for the trap
    are accessible for the operation of the channel locking pliers (enough room for
    tightening) Measure the distance between the flange of the "T" to the
    flange of the 1 1/2" ELL allowing for "make-up". Now cut a piece
    of 1 1/2" pipe to that length (this piece will now be titled as pipe
    "A" for reference purposes) and dry-fit it in to the flanges of the
    "T" and the ELL.



     


    8. At this point place the torpedo level on top of the pipe
    "A" to make sure it has "proper fall" (meaning a SLIGHT
    decline toward the exit, which assures the waste will flow out of the pipe
    toward the "T") You can slide the trap up and down on the turned
    down fitted ELL piece of the "disposer” to achieve this goal or you
    may need to add a longer piece of pipe between the trap and the trap adapter.



     


    NOTE: The standard for "proper fall" is 1/4"
    of decline per foot, which is roughly a 1/4 bubble on the torpedo level
    (meaning 1/4 of the bubble is past the bracket line on the high side)



     


    9. With all parts in place use the sharpie pen to make line-up
    marks at each connection (on the flange and on the pipe) disconnect all parts
    and begin the permanent installation in this order: apply primer to the inside
    of all flanges and approx. 2" of coverage on the outside of both ends of
    pipes A, B & the 2" stub at the back wall, allow all parts to dry.
    Apply glue only to the primer surface of pipes and flanges directly before assembly.
    Glue & Attach "T" fitting to stub and line up the marks -Glue
    & Attach pipe A to ELL fitting and line up the marks
    - Glue & Attach pipe B to ELL fitting and line up marks
    - Glue &Attach pipe A to "T" fitting and line up the marks -
    loosen and divide the trap in to two parts then Glue &attach the trap
    Ell piece to pipe B and line up the marks. loosen the nut and slide the other
    trap section on to the disposer's ELL piece and reassemble the trap.
    Recheck pipe A for proper fall (as described in step #8) then tighten all
    locking nuts.



     


    10. Assemble remaining trap (dry fit) and install on to the tail
    piece of the second sink then point the trap exit port toward and in line with
    strait inlet port of the "T" fitting, Measure the distance between
    the trap flange and the "T" flange, allowing for "make-up"
    Dry fit the pipe in to the trap and the "T" make the line up marks
    and disassemble then permanently assemble these parts typically as has been
    described above not forgetting the proper fall.



     


    Recheck locking nuts, then run water in both sinks and check fore
    leaks.



     


    I hope this helps...


     


    Any questions feel free to ask...


     


     



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I have a Badger 5xp & a double sink. When I turn the disposal on I get a small eruption of water, air and disposed of debris from the other drain.


Take apart the tubular drain pipes beneath sink and clean out everything.
Take photos before removing pipes so parts go back together easily.
Loosen 2 nuts on trap, and trap falls loose.
Remove 2 bolts/screws and remove tailpiece from side of disposal.
Then run snake down drain line leading away from sink to make sure blockage is removed.

I wrote ez disposal steps that give tips on reconnecting tubular drain pipes:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r7929008-replace_garbage_disposal

Sep 24, 2011 | Buck In-Sink-Erator BADGER 5XP BADGERVEXP...

1 Answer

The unit works, but if the water level gets too high, while operating, it begins to drip from the bottom of the unit. Nothing on the exterior is wet. Can it be fixed, or should I replace it? Where can I...


Where is leak coming from?
From the pipes or from bottom of disposal?
If leak is coming from tubular drain pipe or around dishwasher connection, then clean out disposal and repair connections.
If leak is at bottom of disposal, then disposal is probably rusted out and needs replacement.

To solve high water issue and leaking pipes.
Loosen 2 nuts on P-trap and trap falls loose. Then remove tailpiece that connects to side of disposal. Hang rag over opening on side of disposal so water is directed downward, then turn on water and disposal and flush out the clog. Clean trap and tubular drain, and then reassemble.

I wrote ez disposal replacement steps, that also show how to take apart and reassemble tubular drain pipes:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r7929008-replace_garbage_disposal

Aug 18, 2011 | Ace Hardware InSinkErator Badger 5, 1/2 HP...

1 Answer

Garbage disposal quit and both sinks are clogged , disposal won't work at all , is it a clog in the trap or is it the disposal


Clog is probably the trap.
Bail out as much water as possible, get some towels, and put bucket under trap and tubular pipes.
Remove two nuts off P-trap or S-Trap and drop trap down, and sinks will drain.
After clog is cleared, check disposal.
Check reset button on disposal.
If disposal is stuck, use wood boomstick to wedge open the cutter disk, or use allen wrench in slot on bottom of disposal.
If disposal will not work, check circuit breaker.
There are no repair parts for disposals.

For additional information about replacing disposal and permanently fixing tubular pipes:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r7929008-replace_garbage_disposal

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you via e-mail while you work on plumbing or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call

geno_3245_287.jpg

Feb 20, 2011 | Ace Hardware InSinkErator Badger 5, 1/2 HP...

1 Answer

The garbage disposal motor works but the water will not drain from the sink. What can I do?


You have clog in tubular pipes under sink.

Start at P trap under sink:
Take a photo if necessary so reassembly is easy.
Remove both nuts on p-trap and trap falls loose.
Any tubular pipe that gets moved, has to be taken apart and reassembled.
So move as few pipes as needed to get job done.
geno_3245_235.jpg
Remove tailpiece going into disposal.
Clean out disposal, tubular pipes and trap.

Re-assemble tubular pipe.
Rubber washers are replaced with new washers.
Plastic washers are cleaned and re-used.

Tapered end of plastic washer goes away from nut.
Clean and reuse tubular pipes.

We always use a good slap of rectorseal on all tubular joints and washers when re-assembling.
This guarantees there will be no leaks.
Use rectorseal on every joint directly on the washer or joint just before putting on nut.


geno_3245_234.jpg

Jan 09, 2011 | Ace Hardware InSinkErator Badger 5, 1/2 HP...

1 Answer

Unit was working fine. Ground up some brocolli. Now won't drain. Things tried: 1. Removed u-trap: water drained from sink. 2. Ran water w u-trap removed: water drians from sink. 3. Re-connected...


Hi,
If you pull the U trap out and run water through the Disposal and it comes out of the pipe, then there is nothing wrong with the drainage through the disposal. It's not clogged. If it isn't running, there is a small red button on the bottom that is a circuit breaker. If the button is sticking out, push it and it will reset the breaker. Every thing else with the Disposal you did perfectly.

It appears to me as though there is a clog after the Trap. There are several ways to unclog it.
A small snake will do normally, unless the clog is far down the drain system, such as between the house and the sewage or septic system. I have used another device with a hose that is a rubber bulb shaped device that attaches to a garden hose at one end and has a **** at the other end. When you put it into a drain pipe and turn on the water, it inflates and anchors itself against the walls of the pipe that is clogged. Then it forces water down the pipe to remove the obstruction.
Here is a photo. You can find these at places like Harbor Freight, Home Depot, etc.
Hope this helps. Happy New Year, Mark

markfreedman_2.jpg

Dec 31, 2010 | Ace Hardware InSinkErator Badger 5, 1/2 HP...

1 Answer

Garbage Disposal is about 2-1/2 years old It is now no longer grinding up potato peels and clog every time! HELP--do we need a new one!!!


1/2 horsepower is the lighter weight model, and if you use it heavily, then it will not work like before.
Another thing to consider is whether the water is draining away completely while you're cutting.
If water and potato peels are both present, your p-trap and tubular drain may need to be cleaned.

geno_3245_162.jpg

Let's go through the whole thing: replacement, p-trap, tubular pipes, everything.

When I worked apartment maintenance, we replaced disposal with same brand disposal.
That way we didn't have to change out sink basket or move pipes around.
How to replace disposal body: Disconnect both nuts on p-trap. Remove p-trap and loosen tailpiece going into disposal.
Rotate connector disk clockwise that holds disposal to sink basket.
Before installing new disposal.
Attach electric wire to new disposal.
Attach dishwasher tube to new disposal. Knock out plug inside dishwasher opening.
Push new disposal up into place, and attach to old sink basket with new connector disk.
Use new connector washer.
Re-assemble tubular pipe.

geno_3245_163.jpg

If this is your home, you might want new sink basket that comes with new disposal because it looks shiny and new.
Buy a tub of plumbers putty also.
Remove old sink basket and clean opening.
Put finger-size roll of plumbers putty around sink opening, and then push new strainer basket into plumbers putty.
Tighten basket from below, wipe away excess putty around sink opening.
Install new disposal as described above.

Tips for tubular pipes:
When taking apart tubular pipes, start at p-trap and take apart as few pieces as needed to do job.
On image above, loosen both nuts on p-trap, trap falls loose, and then work on disposal.
Any tubular drain pipe that gets moved while working under sink needs to be disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled.
Metal pipes have rubber washer >> always use new rubber washers.
Plastic pipes have plastic washers > plastic washers can be cleaned and re-used.
Plastic washers have flat side that goes toward nut, tapered side away from nut.

geno_3245_164.jpg

When reassembling tubular pipe, we use rectorseal on washers and joints.
Apply good amount on washer just before pushing washer in place and attaching nut.
Rectorseal will ensure tubular drain pipes won't leak.

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Dec 10, 2010 | Ace Hardware InSinkErator Badger 5, 1/2 HP...

1 Answer

How to replace the trap for kitchen sink..there is a leak in the kitchen trap


open to drain pipes. remove the collars that hold trap on, sometimes you may need pliers or a pipe wrench to remove.install is reverse of removal the trap is there to contain the gases in drain pipe. if no trap. you will smell sewer water all the time. 1-1/4 for bathroom drains and 1-1/2 for kitchen sink drain.

Sep 07, 2010 | American Standard Plumbing

1 Answer

Insinkerator badger 5 runs sink wont drain


Properly piped, your arrangment should look similar to this picture so that there is a separate trap for the disposal and the other sink basin.




0636b7f.jpg

Mar 05, 2010 | Ace Hardware InSinkErator Badger 5, 1/2 HP...

1 Answer

Garbage disposer drain pipe is lower than the p-trap


Sorry you are doomed. The only other way to install is to have a plumber come back out and lower the drain in the wall.

Sep 09, 2009 | Ace Hardware InSinkErator Badger 5, 1/2 HP...

2 Answers

Garbage disposal doesn't drain


Sometimes what happens is that when they install a garbage disposal the pipe coming out of it ends up being lower than the pipe exiting the pea trap thru the wall under the sink. If it is a dual kitchen sink this is very common. Being lower than the exiting pipe causes water to stay in the bottom of the disposal and not just the pea trap. If you have a side by side sink in the kitchen and the water is backing up in the other sink also then more than likely the pea trap has a blockage. It is not common for the straight line from the pea trap going thru the wall to become blocked, but it does sometimes happen. The biggest cause of this is poring hot grease down the drain. It is just about the point that it cools enough, sticks and hardens plugging the drain pipe.
You probably should have a plumber look at it and make sure everything is running downhill under the sink. The only place that water should set in the plumbing is in the pea trap so that odor from the sewer does not come up into the house. Without actually seeing it, it is hard to tell exactly what is happening. The pea trap is easy to clean, put a really big pan under the trap, make sure you have emptied as much water out of the sink as you can, then with a big pair of channel locks unscrew the two nuts that hold the pea trap in place and let the fluid drain from it, then finish unscrewing it from the pipe. You can then clean it out and check the pipe thru the wall for blockage. When reassembling it, screw it all together loosely and then move the pieces around while hand tightening each joint so the they have no pressure on them, then use the channel locks to finish tightening the nuts. Don't over tighten them because they have nylon seals in them that compress to make the seal. Just tight enough to seal and not leak. You should be up and running again unless the plug-up is farther down the wall pipe. Good Luck, RAC

Apr 20, 2009 | Ace Hardware InSinkErator Badger 5, 1/2 HP...

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