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Refrig is not working

Door left open, trying to cool whole room, overload... made a really load noice... how do i fix it. unplugged for a year. once plugged in lights work inside but can hear the electric trying to start something but whatever it is won't crank up.... compressor?? motor?? can someone help me

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When you left the door to the unit open it is likely that the coils develped ice buildup on them. When ice formes on the coils, liquid refrigerant will flood over to the compressor. Since liquid does not have the same compression characteristics as gas, the compressor fails. The sure way to knowing if your comrpessor is bad is is by using an electric meter. If you have voltage being applied to the compressor and the unit is not running then it is time to repair or replace.

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Whirlpool refrige side by side doors refridge not cooling frezzer works fine when freezer door opens cool air goes into refrige colse freezer door air stops


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The air return is clogged or obstructed. At the bottom part of the unit, left side wall of the refer section is a port, this is the air return and you will need to make sure to check this and clear all obstruction. If its ice, it will need to be removed. DON'T USE A KNIFE OR AN ICE PICK!!! You can do more damage than needed to correct this problem. I use a steam machine but, you could use a blow dryer if you careful with the heat as it can melt plastic. If you can unplug the unit during this cleaning process. If this is too difficult, unplug unit and leave the doors open to dray out for 24 hours or so, this will fix the problem you have also. Good luck

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When i hit the remote the door opens about 8 inches, then stops. If I unplug the control box for a while, then plug it in it will work for a few times then the same problem occurs.


The motor seems to be overloading Something must be binding. The motor overload seems to be opening up and shutting down the opener. Once it cools down, the overload closes and the motor will run again.

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Have a GE side by side gsh22sgress unit. Child left freezer door open. Unit ran for days (in non-occupied appartment). Meat thawed. Cleaned unit inside with mild soapy mix. Unit runs but will not cool...


Open door let too much moisture into refrigerator. (The cooling coils, behind the back wall of the freezer compartment, are blocked with frost) If you unplug the refrig for a day or so it will work again, or you can take the back wall out from inside the freezer and melt the frost with a hair blower.

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GE GSH25JSTASS doesn't freeze or cool


Ok, first off, replace all thermistors, freezer (2) & refrig (2). Then check that evap fan is working properly. This is a DC volt fan, not ac volt. There have been some issues with these, I would replace if problem continues.

How this box works, main control board monitors everything from how many times doors are open, how long they are open, how and when I/M drops ice, etc.... Every so many hours, depending on how many times the doors are open, you got ice thru the door, etc... it will shut down and go into defrost mode. When it is time for defrost mode it will run refrig into a "sub zero" state, shut down evap fan, run deeper into sub zero effect, shut down compressor when the thermistors say it's cold enough, turn on defrost heater that melts any frost in evap, then turn compressor back on for a few minutes, then turn evap fan back on. Most techs think that the mother board is defective when in fact the thermistors are not measuring temps correctly within the whole unit. If the thermistor say, hey mother board I'm only 60 degrees in the freezer, then it will keep running the compressor trying to get to zero or -1 or till the darn thing freezes up and stops moving air.

Find another tech to work on your unit, one that has some electronics background and/or computer knowledge. It takes a electronics & computer degree to work on these units and understand how they function.

Doors, some of the new frigs have magnetic door gaskets, if it is not staying shut, replace door gaskets. If door stay open or is leaking air (especially around ice shoot) it can cause some really weird stuff to occur, like thermistors saying I'm cold at the inlet to evap but not at the top of evap and mother board will try to correct it's self by running longer. One other thing about door gaskets, if the drain plug in the evap area is frozen or plugged up, doors won't shut properly and stay shut.

For one thousand dollars, I'll come to Florida and fix for you, 200 to fix refrig and the rest for a good time at Disney World (LOL). Good luck. Contact GE for repair on this unit if you can't get good results from your repairman. Their people, like me, go thru extensive training on these boxes. You can thank our goverment for the energy codes that have gone into effect over the years requiring mfgs to have to keep the cost of running these refrigs down as low as possible, the only way to do this was to computerize these boxes. Good luck

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Freezer is very cold and refrig is cool


Hi. As long as the evaporator motor is working its one of the two as you mentioned. If the compressor and evaporator fan is running and the refrigerator door has been open, with the freezer door closed, reach into the back left top where the diffuser is located and put your hand in front of it and see if any air is coming out. You should feel a moderate breeze. If not, open the freezer door with your hand in front of the diffuser and if the air comes out good now, the return air is blocked (normally ice build up). If no air is felt, the damper is most likely bad. Use a mirror and see if the damper is closed or frosted up. This can happen from the refrigerator or freezer door being left open for some time.If you have a mechanical damper, make sure it is set in the middle. You want more air to the refrigerator section. Email me on ebay, user name themackshack if you need parts! Good luck, Mack

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Confused /


Ok the freezer section works the refrig section think of the refrigerator as a large cooler with an inlet and outlet hole cold air is blown into the refrig from the freezer via the fan motor in the freezer the really cold air comes in the top of the refrig and drops to the bottom of the refrig then it is sucked back into the freezer thru a vent hole in the bottom of the refrigerator ..GOT IT?? Now when a unit has a defrost problem there is an ice or frost build up in the freezer on the coil (bad heater,bad bi metal, bad timer can cause this) the ice builds and builds to the point where it blocks the air flow across the coil hence the air can not get to the refrigerator section making it warmer but the freezer section will work ok .. I hope this makes sense...Hint : A sign of this is a lg frost buildup on the back wall of the freezer.

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Referidgerator side is not cooling?? Help?


I had this problem. Here's what I found: The cooling core on the freezer side was froze up. Covered in ice. I think the reason this happened was that the freezer door was held open by one of the slide out trays just enough to pull in outside air. Don't know how long it was like this. When I found it (and corrected it) the interior of the freezer was covered in ice crystals. From then on the refer side contents began warming up. There was no flow of cool air to the refer side from the freezer side (this cool air comes in from the freezer side fan near the top left side of the refer side). Freezer side was near zero temp and the unit ran continuously. Here's what I did: Removed everything from both sides (put it all in another fridge/freezer). Turned off (or unpluged) the fridge and left it off over night. I put towels under the fridge because there can be an over flow of water that could go to the floor. It works great again.

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