Question about Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Noisy compressor at start and end of defrost cycle

Goodman GSZ130241A / ARUF182416
The Goodman unit now sounds like this during the defrost cycle:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gfnmVB5q3c&NR=1
The unit ran reasonably quiet for several months (installed Nov 2008) with just a very short clang at start.

New HVAC tech had a quick look at unit and is returning in a day or so when he has more time to remove refrigerant as a start in diagnosing problem.
Here is what he found:
40 F outdoor ambient - 73 F indoor
Hi PR 410 / Lo PR 96 Discharge temp 158

Air handler tested w/ actual measured voltage/current:
Hi speed: 19 F temp rise = 947 CFM
Mid speed: 21 F temp rise = 856 CFM

Unit was originally charged by weight (6 oz added) by different tech who said unit was installed correctly. They state that this is ''normal'' noise.

Could the factory overcharge (if that is the case) or other malfunction creating high pressures cause permanent damage to scroll resulting in this noise?

The unit heated (and defrosted) very good and the original noise levels were better than a neighbors unit. I was very pleased with it until it started making this noise.


Posted by on

  • 1 more comment 
  • lmpearson Feb 19, 2009

    About 7 to 8 amps if I remember correctly.

    Unit is not cycling on overload. It runs 20 min on 40 min off at 35 outdoor. No tripping of Hi pressure switch.

    Still awaiting tech. He mentioned overtightened "bullet" on indoor coil or possible valve malfunction on outdoor unit. His first plan of attack is to reduce charge while checking pressures. Worst case scenario is complete system purge, check components for proper sizing/functioning, pulling good vacuum and recharge by weight.

    Here's Goodman's heating data sheet that came with units:
    At 40 F data sheet shows 212/54 @ 7.0 A
    http://www.goodmanmfg.com/Portals/0/pdf/...
    Page 18
    GSZ130241A* / AR*F182416**

    Tech says pressures not correct for 410. See anomalies between different unit tonnage.

    I now understand that a good HVAC tech is much more important than anything else - even brand of unit.


  • lmpearson Feb 19, 2009

    Static pressure was not checked. Airflow check using 5 KW aux heater strip w/o heat pump:
    Air handler tested w/ ACTUAL measured voltage/current:
    CFM = KW X 3514 X 1.08 / TR
    237 VAC / 20.0 A
    4.74 KW
    Hi speed: 19 F temp rise 74 to 93 = 947 CFM
    Mid speed: 21 F temp rise 72 to 93 = 856 CFM

    Heat pump (about 40 F outdoor temp)
    BTU = CFM x TR / 1.08
    Using 856 CFM I came to 20,631 BTU for temp rise 72 to 98



  • videotecho May 11, 2010

    Internal pressure safety control should prevent damage but continued high system pressures are hard on any compressor.



    Did tech also check the current draw? An overcharge would cause noise, high discharge pressure, compressor cycling on the overload, and higher current draw than what's shown on the system data plate.

×

1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 3 Answers

Overcharged temperature split times cfm gives you btu's did he check static pressure .50 or less

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

Condencer runs for 20 sec then off keeps repeting after 2 or 3 min goodman central system


Seems like it trying to start and then cuts out , possibly on overload. Try the machine on fan blow only , that will check the indoor unit to see if that is working. Then try cool or heat function while listening to the machine starting. If you hear a loud humming just as the fan starts, and then it cuts out, It could be a compressor issue. Possibly the start capacitor has failed.

May 27, 2015 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Fridgidaire ffht1817lw8 noisy operation


Good Afternoon John, thank you for your post! Your new high-efficiency refrigerator may make unfamiliar sounds. These are all normal sounds and soon will become a common hum in your home. This noise also indicates your refrigerator is operating as designed. Hard surfaces, such as vinyl or wood floors, walls, and kitchen cabinets may make sounds more noticeable.


Listed below are descriptions of some of the most common sounds you may hear, and what is causing them:


A. Evaporator: The flow of refrigerant through the evaporator may create a boiling or gurgling sound.


B. Evaporator Fan: You may hear air being forced through the refrigerator by the evaporator fan.


C. Defrost Heater: During defrost cycles, water dripping onto the defrost heater may cause a hissing or sizzling sound. After defrosting, a popping sound may occur.


D. Automatic Ice Maker: If your refrigerator is equipped with an automatic ice maker, you will hear ice cubes falling into the ice bin.


E. Cold Control & Defrost Timer or Automatic Defrost Control: These parts can produce a snapping or clicking sound when turning the refrigerator on and off. The timer also produces sounds similar to an electric clock.


F. Condenser Fan: If condenser coils are located underneath your refrigerator you have a condenser fan. You may hear air being forced through the condenser by the condenser fan.


G. Compressor: Modern, high-efficiency compressors operate much faster than older models. The compressor may have a high-pitched hum or pulsating sound.


H. Water Valve: If your refrigerator is equipped with an automatic ice maker, you will hear a buzzing sound as the water valve opens to fill the ice maker during each cycle.


I. Drain Pan (Non-removable): You may hear water running into the drain pan during the defrost cycle. The drain pan will be located on top of the compressor for air-cooled condensers (black coils on back of refrigerator).


I do hope this information proves to be helpful. Should you need any further assistance please feel free to respond.

Aug 27, 2013 | Frigidaire FRS3R5EMB Side by Side...

1 Answer

Refrigerator has power but not cooling


A couple of possibilities: Coolant level has declined too far; compressor has failed, and finally, the defrost timer has failed. During the defrost cycle, the compressor is intentionally shut down and if the defrost timer has failed during the defrost cycle, the compressor will not be re-enabled.
You didn't include the model number so the following may not apply: The defrost timer is often located behind the lower grill of the unit. Remove the grill (often held by plastic tabs) and look for a small black box with a hole or a short protruding shaft. These often have a screwdriver slot to allow manual rotation in the event of a timer motor failure. If you find this, insert a flat-bladed screwdriver and rotate the shaft ~ 1/4 turn and wait to see if the compressor then starts up. If not, turn the shaft a bit further and wait again.
If the compressor does not start, either the relay that supplies AC to the compressor has failed or the compressor itself.

Sep 23, 2011 | Hotpoint Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer compartment no longer cools. Continuous defrost cycle?


Good day,
Sounds more like the compressor trying to start and can't.
Pull the machine out, remove the rear cover and see if in fact the sound is coming from the compressor.

Apr 08, 2010 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

3 year-old Goodman compressor/heat pump terribly loud @ start


Without being there to see it and have only your description in front of me, it sounds like the fan blade could be out of balance.......but it sounds more like a loose fan blade hub. Most Goodman units offer a minimum 5 year parts warranty. The Labor warranty is questionable, but the installing contractor or the Goodman Distributor should be able to give you that information. Of course this would cover manufacturer problems and not physical damage. As far as a history of this problem with Goodman..........I've seen it with every brand. If there is a problem getting it under warranty, you might be able to purchase the blade yourself. Before replacing the fan blade, I recommend disconnecting the motor wires from the contactor, tape off the ends and remember exactly where they were attached.....then start the unit to see if the noise is still evident, if so, it's probably your compressor. I recommend a certified repairman....not the one that quoted you $800.00. If you hear only the compressor start up and not the loud noise you are discribing, then try replacing the blade first.

I hope you find this information to be very helpful to you. :-)

Mar 16, 2010 | Goodman CKL60AR60 Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Noisey compressor


Does it make the noise all of the time or just periodically? Does the outdoor fan run when it is making the noise. If the fan isn't running and the compressor is noisy at that time likely it is in defrost mode which is normal.

Jan 17, 2009 | Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Year 2005 cycling fan and compressor


Your unit is probably operating in defrost mode. When you use a dehumidifier in a cold room, the condensing coils can freeze water. The unit senses this and thus stops the compressor until the water frozen on the coils melts. Then it resumes its cycle. This is a problem you will have during the winter months. It makes the operation of the unit inefficient, but this is otherwise normal behavior.

Jan 04, 2009 | LG LD50EL Dehumidifier

1 Answer

Compressor fan not running


Does it look like the coils are frosting over? Is it steaming? Keep watching, after about 30 min does the fan come back on?

If yes to any/all the above then the unit is probably in defrost mode and yes the fan will stop blowing during that time, but restart when the unit goes back into regular heat mode.

During this time you will likely notice warmer heat from the vents than normal and the "AUX or EM HEAT" light will be on.

That is your backup heat system. It should automatically come on during a defrost cycle.

Dec 06, 2008 | Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Vibration when heat only is on inside and out


Is it noisy always when running in heat or only for intermittant periods? Depending on where you live every 45-90 minutes of run time the heat pump goes into a cycle called defrost. The fan on the outdoor unit will shut off. the compressor will continue to run but in actually cool mode. this heats the outdoor coil and allows any frost or ice that is built up on the outdoor coil to melt. The compressor can get pretty loud in this mode and you may actually see steam coming off of the unit. This is normal. However if it is noisy all of time in heat check/clean your coils. If this doesn't remedy it have your refrigerant charge checked by a NATE certified Service Technician. Good luck.

Nov 22, 2008 | Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner

Not finding what you are looking for?
Heating & Cooling Logo

Related Topics:

311 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Goodman Heating & Cooling Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8205 Answers

paulcarew

Level 3 Expert

2364 Answers

Brandon Berry
Brandon Berry

Level 2 Expert

407 Answers

Are you a Goodman Heating and Cooling Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...