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Verify your condenser fan is operationg. Then check your pressures to verify you have refrigerant in the system. Suction should be 65-70 range. High side should be 225 or so depending on your unit. This range can vary all the way to around 275 all this assuming you have an R-22 system. Another way to verify charge is to get an amp draw on your compressor. This verifies you are moving refrigerant. Though load can have an effect on this and not always give you an acccuate reading.
Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. The first thing to check is the filter in the furnace or air handler. Also check the inside coil to be sure its not frozen up. Does the air coming out feel cold? It sounds like the unit could be low on charge which means it has a leak and should be leak checked repaired and properly charged. You would need refrigeration gauges to put on the system in order to properly check the refrigerant charge in the system. One other thing could be a dirty condenser coil. Turn the power off to the unit and use a garden hose with a strong nozzle and spray water through the whole coil to try and blow any dirt or debris through the condenser coil in the outside unit.
This should only be performed by a trained service technician. Not only is this potentially dangerous to the untrained person, but there is also a high potential to damage the equipment further if not charged properly.
The charge is to be metered into the suction line up stream of the compressor (charge liquid only if a blended refrigerant is used).
Most self contained unites will not have pressure taps to charge yourself, the would have to be added and soldered in aftermarket.
If in fact you had pressure taps, you will need a set of refrigeration gauges. Refrigerant needs to be weighed in, usually in ounces for a small unit. Charge is critical on these types of systems, just an ounce or two off can make a very big difference. You also need to know what type of refrigerant the unit requires, this is usually found on the name plate of the unit along or near the refrigerant charge the factory put in.
Also, if the unit entirely lost its charge, it would need to be evacuated to a deep vacuum to get all of the air out of the system. Without doing this you are wasting time and money as air in a system will create very big problems.
Furthermore, you need to make sure there is enough oil in the system, and without giving a reason or amount of refrigerant lost from the unit it is hard to give you an exact plan of action.
Could be several issues causing this problem. Let's start with some basic observations.
Is the condenser fan running?
Is the condenser coil dirty? (Not only the outside but all the way through the coil. Check by looking for light coming through coil. You can even try shining a flashlight through the coil to see if it is clean.)
If the fan is running and the coil is not plugged up or covered with dirt, or other obstructions (air is freely able to move through the coil), then it could be an issue with the system being over charged.
Another possibility (but not highly likely) is there may be non-condensables in the refrigerant system. Usually these will only be present if the system was recently serviced or charged and air and moisture was allowed to enter the refrigerant system (piping).
More information is required to try and diagnose this further.
If you see where the refrigerant leaked out , I would suggest you calling other companies , telling them you know where it leaked out and how much they would charge to braze the leak closed and refill with refrigerant , and remove the access valve ( leaving it on could cause leakage again thru the valve ) . Find one that would NOT replace the dryer . Over the years , I've replaced many compressors ( on burnt out compressors , it's necessary to replace the dryer ) without replaceing the dryer and they are still working today . There would be no recovery expense due to no refrigerant in ac , which will also save money .
1 ) repair the leak
2 ) install refrigerant fill valve
3 ) evacuate the system
4 ) refill the system with recommended refrigerant charge
5 ) remove the access valve
If all companies will charge more than replaceing with a craigs list ac , then craigs list would be the best choice .
The coil freezing can be caused by a couple of things. 1) Not enough air flow over the coil or 2) A low refrigerant charge. First make sure that the indoor fan is running. Then check your air filters and make sure your evaporator coil is clean. After that you can get the refrigerant charge checked. The lower the refrigerant pressure is, the lower it's boiling point is and when it gets below 32F then the evaporator coil and usually the low pressure line freeze up. The leaking you were talking about is probably from the ice melting. Hope this helps.
Hi! First of all, are you certified to handle refrigerant? If you are not then it is illegal for you to even try and charge a system. If you are certified and are a service tech then you should know how to charge a system when its cold outside. If you are charging an R-22 system and it is 30 degrees outside then your refrigerant tank pressure is 54.9 psig. If you warm your tank up a few degrees then you can charge your system (on the suction side of the system of course)! Good luck!!
Also, if you get caught working on ANY freon based refrigeration without a license, you could face a large fine. Freon isn't $3 per pound anymore, it's quite expensive and you don't want any of it wasted. Have a licensed technician do the work. He will know exactly how much refrigerant your system needs, and he can remove what's there and add to it.