Question about Whirlpool WGD9200S Gas Dryer

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Gas Dryer coil glows but no flame

There is proper gas flow to the burner. Solenoid makes a loud noise for about 5 seconds while ignitor glows, then cycles every 30 seconds. I disconnected the leads to the 2 solenoids and checked for voltage. The solenoid with 2 wires, blue and white have 120 volts for the 30 seconds then 0 for 5 seconds. The solenoid with 3 wires (closest to the front of the dryer) blue, white and black has 120 volts to the blue and white wires during the 5 seconds and 0 volts for 30. This is the one that makes the loud noise when activated. The other solendoid only makes a click noise.
Please help.

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Sounds like you need to replace your coils. Probably only one of them is bad, but why hassle with determining which one when you can get a pair for about $20 (the other one may be ready to fail soon anyway).

Posted on Jul 12, 2009

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Dryer wont relight


replace the 2 solenoid (gas coils) there are out very common

Aug 14, 2012 | Samsung Dryers

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I have a 7yo Kenmore Elite gas dryer w/no heat. I tested all the possible culprits with my ohmmeter. I found the ignitor was not glowing so I replaced it. Now it glows but I still have no heat


The glowing if the ignitor indicates that the circuitry is good but the flame/radiant sensor is bad and/or one or both of the gas valve solenoid coils are not working. The flame/radiant sensor bypasses one the solenoid coils then when power is applied to the ignition circuit, the first coil opens the first valve, the ignitor glows and the flame/radiant sensor gets heated. It's contacts then opens when heated enough to unbypass the second coil and allow the gas to flow and be ignited.

Make sure the flame/radiant sensor is properly in place and aligned with the ignitor to allow proper heat sensing. You may check the continuity between the sensor's contact terminals as the ignitor glows. At first, the terminals should read close (zero resistance) and then open (infinite resistance) after about 30 seconds or so. If this is not the case, the sensor is not working and must be replaced.

The solenoid coils, one with 2 prongs and the other has 3, sitting on top of the gas valves must be both replaced if the flame/radiant sensor turns out good. But before doing so, make sure to run a test with the dryer completely assembled because sometimes the gas do not ignite when the dryer's cabinet is open. This is to prevent unnecessary replacement of the coils.

Feel free to update us about the result and if you need further advice.

Jun 17, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

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Model LG8219W2 On initial start up igniter turns on and flame is ok, after heats up and cycles the flame does not reignite,I can see the igniter glow red but flame does not return. the igniter contiues...


HI. This will essentially be an issue that concerns the gas valve coils. With that said, I will post below a complete burner assembly procedure that will help you isolate the culprit. I'm sure that the coils will fail the test, but to be safe, follow the procedure to confirm.

Gas valve/Burner testing procedure:

On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.

Click Here to access a exploded diagram of the burner assembly. The affected coils will be labeled number 15 and 10. The actual coil and valve assembly will be labeled number 11 and the burner will be labeled number 9

Aug 22, 2010 | Amana NED7200TW Electric Dryer

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If the drying problem is with the gas coils, is


Hi. On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.

  • NOTE_ If the ignitor doesn't glow at all, it must be replaced. This type of repair is affordable, but i can not recommend to do it yourself if you are not qualified. This type of repair can be dangerous, due to the exposure of flammable gases and electrical devices. You must shut off all incoming gas feeds, and electrical currents before preceding with the inspection and repair, as well.

Mar 01, 2010 | Maytag Atlantis MDG7400AW Gas Dryer

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I have a kenmore gas dryer is it good if on # 1 coil on #1and 2 i get1328 ohms 1and3 i get 528 on #2 coil i get 1220 ohms


On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.

Jan 11, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

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Tested the igniter and both sensors on the burner housing. all ok. How do I test the coils and exhaust sensor?


On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.

Concerning the exhaust sensors. I assume you are referring to the thermostats, and thermal fuse. If so, follow the test procedure to test for damage.


To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.

Dec 13, 2009 | Maytag MDG308DAWW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Will not ignite. NO HEAT


The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the unit the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.


The ignitor has two wires connected to it.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.

Now, if the ignitor passes the inspection, and test, this will lead to a failed set of gas valve coils.


On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.

Nov 02, 2009 | GE Dryers

3 Answers

My GE Dryer, model number Model# DSXH43GV1WW doesn't heat up anymore. The dryer turns on, the drum spins, in all the three types of available cycles, just no heat at all. Any ideas?


First make sure that the gas valve is on. Then verify that the gas connector is not kinked or restricted. then remove the connector at the back of the dryer and make sure there is gas pressure. Then visually inspect the pipe at the back of the dryer. Use a flashlight to inspect inside the pipe and make sure there is no debris inside the pipe that could restrict gas flow. On this dryer there is no removable burner door cover on the front or inspection window so you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer. Once the panel is removed you can turn on the dryer. You should first hear a click sound. That is the first gas solenoid valve opening. Then the igniter should start to glow. Once the igniter reaches 2200 degrees the secondary gas solenoid valve should click and the burner will come on. If you do not hear a click when the dryer is first turned on you will need test the first gas solenoid valve. Make sure it is getting voltage with a fluke meter. You can also touch a piece of metal to the top of the valve and the top should be magnetized when active. If you hear the first click but no igniter glow then verify the igniter is getting voltage and test the igniter with a fluke meter. You will need to test the ohms and most should be 500 to 700 ohms. If the igniter does not get a good reading or none it is probably defective and needs replacement. Usually most places that sell appliance parts will test the igniter for free. Just because the igniter glows does not mean that it is good. It can glow but not reach the 2200 degrees needed for the proper operation. Now if the igniter is good and you hear a second click then there might be a restriction somewhere in the gas line between the solenoids or the gas orfice at the burner. The sensor Gort was talking about is the flame rectification sensor and can detect the flame. It is rare for this to be faulty but not impossible. If you get flame for a couple seconds and then it shuts off it could be this sensor. Blow the burner assembly and this area off with compressed air and lint can block the sensor's ability to detect the burner flame. Also I believe your dryer has a larger fan blower than standard dryers. If this blower motor is not working the rest of the system will not come on. make sure the assist fan is working and that the vacuum switch is working and not stuck. Also check the vacuum line is not disconnected or restricted. And always remember that there are exposed power connections inside the dryer that could shock you and cause injury. use caution and if you do not feel comfortable working on this you might want to call a professional.

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2 Answers

Dryer not drying


First thing to check is the vent. Make sure you have sufficient air flow to the outside. If you are not sure if you have the proper rate of flow, disconnect the vent from the dryer, turn dryer on and see if burner stays on longer. Do this with a couple of damp, spun-dry towels inside the drum. If the burner short cycles again, you need to replace the coils on top of the burner assembly. These are the two black round coils.

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1 Answer

Lights once then not again


Hot Surface ('Glow Bar') Ignition System glow-amin.60x20.gif (most common)
This is the most popular system currently in use and is comprised of a control mechanism (whether thermostat or electronic control), the oven ignitor and an oven gas valve. What happens in this style control system is that the thermostat or electronic control supplies power to the oven ignitor and gas valve which are connected in series (one after the other). As power flows through the ignitor it heats and allows a specific amount of current to flow to the oven valve which is in the same circuit. If the oven valve senses the proper current flow, it opens to allow gas to flow to the oven burner where the glowing hot ignitor (glow bar) ignites it.
gas-ignitor-circuit.anim.5.gif

Jul 20, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

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