Question about GE Hotpoint HDA3500N Dishwasher
I have a hotpoint hda3500n00bb and it has a broken "base spray arm". I have the new part and it looks like it should just screw into the hole that leads down to the pump. But i cannot get the old "base spray arm" to screw out. I mean it is not budging! Any suggestions?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the spray arm just screws back on, unless of course its cracked in which case needs replacing( chances are since it fell off its cracked) heres the part num 154478202
Posted on Mar 15, 2008
SOURCE: Hi I have a Kenmore model
The top rack is not cleaning because of low water pressure from the wash motor to the upper spray arm.
Assuming the top spray arms are clear of debris, remove the lower spray arm to access the wash motor. Remove the 4 torx screws and the filter (accumulator assembly). Remove the torx screw and the inlet protector that covers the chopper assembly. Make sure the chopper is not broken (broken chopper will fill with debris and block water flow). While holding the chopper blade, reach inside the "D" shaped opening on top of the motor and spin the wheel/motor by hand in each direction to make sure either the chopper gear or the motor gear that drives the chopper is not broken. Replace the chopper if necessary (part # 8268383). If the motor gear is broken, replace the sump and motor assembly (part # 8535150). Remove any debris from the sump area in the process.
You don't have to because the door will be open, but if you feel more comfortable shutting off the power to the dishwasher, do so.
Posted on Mar 06, 2009
Cleaning the filter was the right thing to try.
Since you don't see cracks/breaks on the spray arm and it appears that it is spinning freely, I doubt that replacing the spray arm will fix your problem.
If your dishwasher is several years old, your problem is likely a failing pump motor, but before you swap that out, check that the impeller is not damaged. Good Luck!
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
On the LG LDF xxxx dishwasher family, the Vario feature uses a motor/check valve to switch between "full power" cleaning from _either_ the lower or the upper spray arms, never at the same time. So, not seeing the upper arm spin during the lower arm spinning is standard operating procedure.
But back to your problem. Step one would be to remove the filter assembly again and make certain that there is nothing (debris, broken glass) blocking the white areas where the check valve rotates to switch between upper/lower spray arms. A blockage there ~could~ cause impotent spraying/cleaning.
If there is no blockage and the impeller remains in good shape, suspect a failing wash pump motor. Try to isolate the noise to that motor.
Watch for error codes on the display and report back what you find, OK?
Posted on May 14, 2009
SOURCE: danby DDW396W-2
I have had a similar problem numerous times, a couple of which required
manoeuvreing it into a place I could work on it, and a laborious
removal of the covers. Each time, up until this current incident, the
solution that worked, at least temporarily, was quite simple. The
recurrent problem was at least consistent: every 6-8 months I would
find that the pump would work but the spray arm was not moving. The
solutions always seemed to be something different: once all I
needed to do was to prime the pump, other times it seemed like calcium
and lime build-up was clogging up the parts so a little C.L.R. got me
on my way.
This most current incident was more baffling, as my standard solutions did not work. However, I think I finally got to the root of the problem.
Look inside the dish compartment, to the right, near the top. There are two little nubby holes. Their function is to allow air to enter/exit either the spray arm pump tubing or the water filling tubing. Remove the one zillion screws from the cover to access the innards. Pull off the tubing and unscrew the washer (it will be tight due to the sealant on it). Upon inspection, I found that the air hole for the spray arm pump was clogged with food residue. A tiny screwdriver will clear things out nicely - you should be able to see through it. If you clear it out a little but, but still can't see through it, then I presume you're just going to have the same problem back again.
It is important that this be clear so that the water can displace the air while filling is occurring and allow for good suction. Actually, it looked like a manufacturing flaw - there was still some residual plastic from the original molding on the inside, and food was getting caught on it.
Posted on May 26, 2009
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