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Re: I need to change the bearings on the amature of a...
I looked at a breakdown and there is no clip. Sometimes the bearing is tough to pull out of the gearcase. Do you have a dead blow hammer? Sometimes I have to apply pressure (pulling) to the armature and tap the gearcase make sure that I hit a solid thick piece of it and generally it will jump out of there. Also in the past with the fan bearing on the armature it is so close to fan that you have to crush it in a vise and use a bearing splitter to remove the inner race, or if you buy the parts from Dewalt you might take it with you and ask them to remove and press the new ones on. Let me know if this doesn't work and I will research further.
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There are several steps: Remove the base height adjustment lever assembly(#56,57,71,72,73,74) Remove the lower blade guard (#37) Remove the brushes (#810) Remove the upper guard housing (#827) The armature will usually slide out with the upper guard - once out wiggle the armature out of the guard housing. Reverse order to reinstall http://www.ereplacementparts.com/bosch-cs20-0601674057-circular-saw-parts-c-128_1138_9632.html
Mostly portable power tools of standard construction the motor armature can be removed from the gearbox quite easily. Once the other motor components have been removed, generally it is only the resistance of the drive end bearing of the armature in the gearbox housing that must be overcome. Sometimes the bearing is an easy push fit and sometimes quite a lot of force is needed and the casing should be expanded a little using heat.
a bad centrifugal starter or inside capacitor and or the electric field if an old type with induction motor , but if it has carbon brushes in the motor instead of an induction motor the commutator on the armature short brushes or a bad bearing(s) on the motor or other gearbearings on the saw drive are worn , it must have a smooth turn if turn on the armature if remove the field /motor house.. look in the motor if running at the end if the carbon brushes you see are make to much sparks a worn bearing without the balls or bad armature collectors or electric field . watch if the bearing is worn by blue hot it can have melting the seat in the motor house replace it all.
Remove the field coil and then pull the field coil with end cap from the solenoid housing, holding the end cap to the field coil to avoid pulling the armature out of the brush holder which would require further starter disassembly. Then with a 9 mm socket, remove the two hex screws with Phillips recesses to release the solenoid housing from the drive housing and if necessary use a dead blow hammer or a rubber mallet to separate the solenoid and the drive housings. And remove the return spring from the solenoid plunger shaft.
Install the return spring onto the solenoid plunger shaft and then mate the solenoid and drive housings and install the two hex screws using a 9 mm socket and alternately tighten them until they are snug. Then lubricate the armature bearing with LUBRIPLATE 110 grease and seat the armature bearing into the counterbore and mate up the field coil and solenoid housings. Properly assembled a small nub on the field coil housing flange must engage the slot on the solenoid housing flange closest to the short field wire post on the solenoid housing
Remove the end cap on the motor and remove the 2 carbon brushes. There are 4 screws that hold the motor to the frame and the field and motor housing will pull straight off. The armature will also pull straight out but will require some persuasion and finesse so you don't damage the fan blade.
The most common issue with these is the end armature bearing and with a bearing puller you can perform this with the armature still on the saw. If the bearing is frozen be sure to also check the rubber boot that goes over the bearing and also the motor housing where the bearing sits because it often melts from the friction.
Sounds like you have a bad rear armature bearing.
Remove the end cap on the motor and the 2 carbon brushes.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the motor housing to the frame and pull it straight off.
Most often the bearing heats up enough to ruin the rubber boot that sits over the bearing as well as the motor housing itself. Check to ensure the armature is not burnt
If the armature is OK and it is just a bearing you can replace it in place with a standard bearing puller
Make sure to replace the brushes as well when you do this repair.
usually there is a screw in the diaphragm to hold that assembly tight. You need to remove the brushes first and you might need to GENTLY pry the diaphragm from the motor housing. Then using a soft blow hammer tap the armature out of the plate. I would recommend replacing the bearings and brushes when doing the armature. Let me know if you need more assistance.