Question about Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator with In-Door-Ice Dispensing System

1 Answer

Can't remove plastic inlet pipe

I am Trying to replace the plastic tubing from the water supply to the filter, but I can't remove sthe plastic tube from the filter holder. It looks like that it should just slide out, but it just won't come out. Can You tell me what the problem is?

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Call the manufacture ****.

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Ice maker will not fill .pour water in manually and eventually it may or may not dispense.


WATER INLET VALVE:

Check the water inlet valve for any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted.

The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.

(HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.

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May 12, 2015 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

The water to my whirlpool freezer and ice is not coming out. american type ?


I would check the water inlet valve the coils may have gone bad test them for ohms and for voltage

The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.

(HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.

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Mar 23, 2015 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

Water not coming out


WATER INLET VALVE:

Check the water inlet valve for any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted.

The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.

(HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.


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Mar 23, 2015 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a Kithenaide refrigerator and the pressure keeps cutting out on the water dispenser I have replaced the dispenser moyorhe but this did not work I have also replaced the filter twice not sure what...


i WOULD CONSIDER CHECKING THE WATER INLET VALVE FOR OHMS AND FOR LIVE VOLTAGE

AS YOU MAY HAVE BAD COILS


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kithenaide-refrigerator-pressure-keeps-kvax0h5nolktkyinzrohy2he-2-14.jpg
The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.

(HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.

Mar 23, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Need a copy of the electrical schematic to check why the icemaker does not open the valve to let weter into the ice tray


The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.

(HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.

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Mar 03, 2015 | KitchenAid KFCS22EVMS Stainless Steel ...

1 Answer

Only making two to three cubes at a time!!


i WOULD TEST THE WATER VALVE AND THE COILS FOR OHMS AND FOR FULL VOLTAGE

WATER INLET VALVE:

Check the water inlet valve for any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted.

The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.

(HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when
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Feb 26, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I've just replaced the water filter and the flow rate on the water dispenser is as slow as it was before. I ran the dispenser to remove the air from the system so I know that is not the problem. The flow...


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. Most water flow problems that are common to both the ice maker and water dispenser are either a supply volume or filter problem. Since you already have replaced the filter that points directly to a supply volume problem. Water connections for refrigerators are often connected by using a saddle valve on the side of a water pipe. The saddle valves have a rubber gasket that is clamped to the side of the pipe to prevent leakage. The gasket over time can swell due to being clamped or plumbing debris can block the small hole that ports water to the refrigerator water supply.

Here is what I recommend. Disconnect the water line where it connects to the back of your unit. If you have the press in type connection (no visible fittings) at the water inlet valve I recommend you get a brass compression coupling and cut the plastic line vs pulling the plastic line out of the water valve. Install the coupling on the plastic line so you will have a connection to check the flow rate.
The incoming flow rate should be the same as the water dispenser flow rate. If the incoming flow rate is faster then the problem is with the refrigerator internal plastic tubing. Most of the time when this discrepancy appears it will be in the door hinge area that the tubing is flattened causing a restriction in water flow. Since you are having both ice maker and water dispenser problems... your problem most likely is strictly water supply line related. Correct the water supply problem.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Kelly

Nov 14, 2010 | Frigidaire FRS26R4A Side by Side...

1 Answer

We are trying to either get a diagram for an 2002 chevy impalas ac system,or the location of the orifice tube.please help.


It is located inside the condensor tube running to the evaporator.

Here are the removal/installation instructions as per alldata:

TOOLS REQUIRED

J 39400-A Halogen Leak Detector
J 26549-E Orifice Tube Remover

REMOVAL PROCEDURE
-Recover the refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging.
-Remove the air cleaner assembly.
-Remove the vacuum brake booster.
-Remove the condenser tube.
-Use J 26549-E in order to remove the expansion orifice tube. IMPORTANT: DO NOT use any solvents or chemicals to clean the porous plastic inlet filter of the expansion orifice tube.
-Inspect the expansion orifice tube for the following conditions and clean or replace with a new tube as indicated:
-Broken plastic frame (1); replace the tube.
Inlet filter (3) damaged or plugged with fine gritty material; replace the tube.
Inlet filter (3) coated with metal chips, flakes, or slivers; remove the coating with low pressure shop air ONLY and reuse if the filter is cleaned satisfactorily. Do NOT reuse the O-ring seals (2).

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

IMPORTANT: Lubricate the new O-ring seals (2) with mineral base 525 viscosity refrigerant oil.
If you reuse the orifice tube, install new O-ring seals (2).
Carefully grasp the edge of the expansion orifice tube (1) without touching the inlet filter (3) and insert the expansion tube into the condenser tube until fully seated.
-Install the condenser tube.
-Install the vacuum brake booster.
-Install the air cleaner assembly.
-Evacuate and recharge the A/C system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging.
-Leak test the fittings of the component using J 39400-A.

Aug 20, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Impala

2 Answers

Water dispenser is flowing super slow, almost a trickle. Takes forever to fill a glass. Kids won't even use it anymore.


HI. This will happen if the filter is near its filtering capacity limit. You will need to replace the filter in this case, asap. This will correct the issue.

Note( If the filter is not the issue, a more uncommon issue will be a faulty water inlet valve assembly)


The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush
or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

Oct 10, 2009 | Amana 22.6 cu. ft. Side-By-Side...

1 Answer

Looking For orfice Tube on 2000 Grand Prix 3.8 Liter .need to change it if it has one along with accumalator


Recover the refrigerant. Remove the engine air cleaner.Remove the vacuum brake booster. Remove the condenser tube. Remove the expansion (orifice) tube: Use needle-nose pliers in order to grip the orifice tube. Use a turning motion along with a push-pull motion in order to loosen the impacted orifice tube. Remove the orifice tube.
Important: DO NOT use any solvents or chemicals to clean the expansion (orifice) tube porous plastic inlet filter. Inspect the expansion (orifice) tube for the following conditions and clean or replace with a new tube as indicated: Broken plastic frame, Inlet filter damaged or plugged with fine gritty material, replace tube. Inlet filter coated with metal chips, flakes, or slivers; coating may be removed with low pressure shop air ONLY and reused if cleaned satisfactorily. If reusing the tube, discard the O-ring seals and replace. This is from the gm service CD manual. keep me posted and good luck

Jun 29, 2009 | 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix

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