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1 Unplug the vacuum and remove all accessories such as extensions and brushes. Open the vacuum's outer casing to get at the end of the power cord. Exactly how you will do this depends on the model of vacuum. Generally it simply involves the removal of two to three Phillips-head screws.
2 Follow the power cord to the two connections at the vacuum's motor. Unfasten any clips or holding bracket and disconnect the cord from the motor. Sometimes this can be accomplished by unscrewing two connection screws, other times the cord is soldered directly to the motor. If this is the case use wire cutters and cut the cord about 4 inches from the motor to give room for splicing on a new cord.
3 Insert the new power cord into the vacuum. Follow the exact same path as the old one. If there were any brackets or clips that held the old cord in place inside the vacuum or out use them on the new cord.
4 Tie a knot in the cord on the inside of the vacuum casing so that it will not accidentally be pulled out of the motor once it is in use.
5 Connect the new cord to the motor in the same fashion as the old one. With wire strippers take off about 1 inch of insulation from the new cord to expose the two wires. Either wrap them around the connection posts and re-screw, or twist the new cord wires around the 4-inch remnants of the old cord and seal all exposed wire and connections with electrical tape.
6 Replace the vacuum's casing in reverse order from how you removed it. Plug in the vacuum to test.
You need to measure for voltage inside the machine between the white wire and black wire from the power cord. If zero, the cord is likely broken at or near the plug end. This is a common problem if one pulls the plug by yanking on the cord instead of pulling on the plug directly. In any case, try cutting the cord off a little way back from the plug, and fit a new replacement plug from a home center or hardware store. If the voltage test above showed line voltage (115 volts AC in the US), then turn the switch to on, and measure for voltage between the white wire and the motor side of the switch. If good, then likely there is a motor brush problem or a broken winding in the motor. Repair of this usually requires dis-assembly of the housing around the motor. Hope this helps!
There is a push in type flat plastic switch trim cover over the metal housing surrounding the switch.. You must unplug the cord, gently pry around the trim cover and you will find a screw, an irregular one underneath holding the switch in place. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN when reinstalling this one or you will crack the switch.
Once removed the rear housing will come off. Then you will see several new philips round head screws holding the front housing onto the vac.With all screws removed the housing should open easily but there may be dirty film inside holding the halves together. The fan shaft will unscrew revealing the fan, a spacer behind and perhaps two different spacer washers. Install the new fan hand tight, washers and spacers in same order... Good effort figuring this one out. Please post back with results.
Determine if the headlight works before anything else. If the light works but the motor won't you have power thru the vac and the problem is internal possibly motor brushes... or a loose wire on the inside connecting to the switch. If the light goes out is likely a switch or cord problem. Switches on these vacs break more often than cords. What you see on top is the switch button, not the actually internal switch, however a switch does not normally fail while the vac is running, that sounds more like a loose connection or a bad cord. So isolate the cord. Unplug it at both ends and plug lamp ( or test meter) into the cord into the cord and gently wiggle where the plug end meets the cord. If the lamp goes on and off the issue is the cord. You can buy a replacement specific to the Kirby series and plug it in yourself. If this s does not isolate the problem, take it to a service center. Kirby is very intricate inside.
You must flip the Tri Star upside down to reveal hidden body screws. Generally 2 at back near the wheels and one at front below the cord retainer. Once removed the body will separate at the bumper. Before removing the motor , note the position of the carbon brushes relative to the body housing. They will be offset allowing the housing to close without striking the motor. This is a metal vac body, your connects must be clean and should be taped after using twist terminals as a precaution. Your cord will go first to the switch, then power runs from the switch to one side each of the power head and motor, then from the opposite power head and motor lead back to the switch. You should secure a knot inside the body of the vac as a strain relief so the cord cannot slip out after connecting
The hose has fuseable link inside, generally a 3-7 amp. It is at the wall end underneath the hose cuff. Easy to replace as it crimps in line. If you have a meter you can also test the detachable hose to wall cord for continuity, then check the hose to handle as well. You can also detach the hose to wall cord from the hose, and plug your power head directly into that cord,, then into the wall thereby eliminating the hose itself. Hayden makes a serviceable hose. If damaged or the fuse blown it can be serviced by a good tech. If the fuse is blown you need to clean and inspect the power head as this may be the cause
I don't have the exact same model as you guys, but maybe my situation is similar to yours. My Miele Silver moon model won't turn on one day. I took it to a Miele authorized repair shop ( they all offer free estimate on finding the problem first, then they will tell you what the repair cost will be). They said my vacuum cord reel shim was damaged. The damage was caused by over stretching the cord while I vacuumed. According to them the shim is kind of like a clip that holds the cord inside the vacuum. When the shim is damaged, the cords are pulled apart and electricity can no longer pass through. That would expalin why it won't turn on. The repair cost was not too bad, it costed forty-six dollars. I hope this helps.
There is no reset button, but some of those old switches are very touchy . . . if there was some
corrosion, you may not have a good contact (was enough of the new wire insulation stripped away, before putting it into the switch) . . .
I prefer splicing, rather than going all the way to the switch . . its just a matter of cutting out the old cord and splicing in the new cord in a convenient spot up in the motor compartment. . . a Rainbow purist would run the new cord all the way up into the power on/off rocker switch that's built into the top of the handle and then wire the new cord in there, directly at the switch . . . that way means no splicing . . . I've done it both ways, but I prefer to splice and use wire connectors inside the motor compartment . . . because going further, all the way up directly into the on/off switch just to avoid splicing the new cord in requires taking more things apart . . . and risks screwing up the power switch . . . that's not worth the extra time and trouble, IMHO. (This from someone who has dismantled and refurbished over 200 D4C and SE models)