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It will be inline with the power entering, meaning probably by the thermal overload, it may not be equipped with that , but rely on a thermal overload as the oil units surface temps are no way near the point of combustion if it does touch aything as curtains or rugs etc.
There is a overheat safety feature and it can usually be reset. Unplug the heater for 5 to 10 minutes and the plug it back in. If that doesn't solve the problem, there is an internal reset switch, but it's a little hard to find. You will have to remove the back cover, then look for a red button/switch that has 2 wires coming out of it, that go to the heating element. Press that, to reset the safety switch.
But, I must add, the other solution/answer you received ... that it may have burned up the heating element is certainly a reality. In any event, it's not safe to leave a space heater ON and unattended for any length of time. Particularly, since this one somehow slipped of the fireplace hearth while no one was at home. Just be glad the overheat safety switch worked as it should. Electric space heaters are one of the biggest causes of house fires in the U.S.
More than likely it's the Thermal overload circuit or the heating element has given up the ghost.
As I just told one other questioner. These types of electric fireplace heaters were not designed to run for long periods of time. Their heat output is not much more than a blow drier. However, this is not just a problem with CharmGlo, it's with all the manufacturers.
Here's the problem ... The heaters work by taking in cool air, heating it and sending it back out via the blower. Over time, the heating element and/or blower become clogged with dust, lint and/or pet hair. This makes the heating element work harder and it over heats. Either burning out the heating element or the thermal overload switch or both.
You can try cleaning the heating element with a vacuum that has a hose and a brush attachment. While you're at it clean the blower fins and motor. Consult your Owners Manual to see how to access these parts, as they are under firebox, behind the metal grill on the bottom of the firebox, so to speak.
there are limit sensors around fire box.you need to remove front cover.if flames are coming out of fire box there's a restriction in air flow. on older furnace could be fan belt . air cond. coil could be pluged up are all the vents open and have good air flow?you check limits by pulling one wire and check with ohm meter.there normally closed and open when too hot.most limits around fire box don't reset them selves.on some draft inducers there's a limit if it is tripping then theres a vent problem.theres also a limit on the fire box (heat exchanger) that may or may not self reset.
Have you observed Thermal overload and FLA of your equipment? This will tell you what is going wrong. I suggest you to set Thermal overload = 1.15 up to 1.2 ( X FLA)
For long time usage, Thermal over load also be weak. You may make trial by adjust it a little bit higher .
The reason that it stopped is an open circuit. It is probably a blown thermal fuse. However, it could be any of the following if that is not the problem:
bad switch, broken or disconnected wire, burned open heater element, bad connections between terminals and wires, or between wire connectors and the wires within them.
If you take it apart, you will find the heat sensitive thermal fuse device under the heating elements, near the bottom of the unit. If the thermal fuse is good, it will appear as a short to an ohmmeter (zero ohms). If it is failed, it will appear as an open (infinite ohms).
The thermal fuse device can be replaced. Here is where to get one: http://www.goodmans.net/get_list_632_2.htm
The thermal fuse may be this one, but check the temperature indication on yours first: Item#: TH-TF167C
Could the fan motor be heating up and shutting down on thermal overload? How long of a duration does it stay off before it starts again? Typically there is a bi-metal switch that rests on the heat exchanger and starts and stops the fan motor. If it is bad or not resting against the exchanger it will not operate as it should. Check the location of the switch. If it is touching but still cycling, test your switch with a multimeter set on Ohms. Let the heater run, jump the two wires you pulled off the switch (they are 120 volts so be careful) and watch your multimeter to see when the switch opens and closes. If it cycles as it has been, you have a bad motor. If the switch closes as the heat exchanger gets hot and stays hot as long as the heater is running, the switch is good.
have you tried to heat up thermal couple for a couple of minutes. It takes a few minutes for the flames to actually starts heating thermal couple you might have to move thermal couple a little closer to heater flames