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Surface element control problem

Older jenn-air (Model 88370). Front control causes both front & rear elements to heat up (that's the problem). Rear control only causes the rear element to heat up. So it doesn't seem to be a short between the element wires. This unit uses what the parts people call an ''infinite switch control'' for the controls. The controls have what looks like L1 & L2 terminals, both in & out, but there is a fifth terminal of unknown purpose as well.

Before I just go & replace both controls, I would like to find a schematic, as the one that was pasted inside the compartment is destroyed.

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You need to change out both switches. you will have L1/L2 for the power.(red& black wires) and you will have H1/H2 for the wires that travel to the burners. you will have the 5th wire which states P( for the indicator pilot light). You are getting a power back feed through one of the switches.

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

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I have a Jenn-Air JES9900 range and the right front burner is not working but the hot indicator light remains on. Is this just a switch that needs to be replaced?


make this test and fix it. God bless you

Surface Element Switch

If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.


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Surface Element Board

If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.


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Coil Surface Element

If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.


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Radiant Surface Element

The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.


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Solid Surface Element

If the surface element won't work, and the stove has the solid surface element type of heat, it's likely that the solid surface element itself has burned out. The solid surface element works very similarly to other surface elements - inside there is a heating element that glows when electricity is applied to it. As it gets hotter, the heat is transferred to the solid surface element


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Element Receptacle and Wire Kit

If a surface element won't work, there may be a problem in the element receptacle. The surface element plugs onto a terminal block type receptacle. Over time the terminals in the receptacle can have a bad connection and overheat. Look at the receptacle contacts with a flashlight. If the terminals look burnt you will need to replace the element receptacle. also make sure the element prongs are clean and not burnt. If the prongs are burnt bad the element will need to be replaced also.


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Loose or Burnt Wire Connection

If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.


Incoming Power Problem

Although not as common, if the surface element won't work it is possible that the appliance is not receiving proper voltage. Electric ranges require 220 volts of alternating current. If for some reason the appliance is receiving significantly less, the surface element won't work. Check for proper voltage using a volt meter at the socket where the appliance plugs in.

Nov 04, 2013 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

An older jenn air grill range model # S125- the left burner does not work front or back and the light stays on


Replace the switch that controls one of the two burners. One switch is bad. Look also for a blown fuse. if present.
Chances are one bad element had shorted out the switch (now stays lit) and also took out one fuse.

Oct 20, 2013 | Jenn-Air Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Model JES8850BAS. front left element doesnt work.


there is a problem on the panel. please call a technician to repair that problem.

Jun 20, 2010 | Jenn-Air JES8850BA Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Jenn Air Range Model 88370 oven only bakes in the back and leaves food raw in the front.


It will be the oven element that has failed, a new one wiil need to be fitted.

It is located at the rear of the oven compartment behind a removeable cover.

I hope this helps.

Apr 11, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

Right front burner fails to heat (at all) Jenn air


I suspect a faulty element or electrical connection to the element.

Mar 21, 2010 | Jenn-Air 30 in. CCE3401 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

Jennair model WW2780 Double oven. Top oven will not heat. Turn on with controls and immediately just shuts off again. Assume it is the heating element. Not sure how to replace element and reading advise on...


This is not your heating element. If the element comes on at all, it is not out. This is your electronic control board that is going out.

We have parts and instructions on how to replace the parts on your Jenn-Air oven.

Just contact us at:

http://www.fixya.com/repair/d499389-accurate_appliance_repair_service
and we will get the correct parts out to you asap.

We look forward to getting you cooking again soon!

Nov 07, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Problem with objective lens


This is an air separated doublet (invented in the 1700s). Each lens element is made of a different type of glass to reduce false color. So if you get it back together wrong you will notice the bad image. Look at the edges of the elements the thinner one usually goes in front. The concave surface of the rear element should also face front. With the plastic separation ring in place the convex surface of the front element should not come into contact with the rear element's concave surface. It shouldn't rock, there should be about 1mm air separation between them. On shorter focal length refractors (under 500mm) the front surface of the front element has less concavity that the rear surface. On longer focal lengths they are about the same. All I can say is try this and if the image isn't that great flip the front element and try it that way. And don't feel too bad we've all learned the hard way to mark the edges of the elements as we take them out. HTH

Jan 04, 2009 | Tasco Astronomical 302675 Telescope

1 Answer

Jen Air left front small burner does not heat up.


these are cartridge elements corrrect? try reversing the cartidges, now the front small will become the rear small . does it not work in this position? and the newly placed front burner work?? this will determine if the proble lies within the cartridge or the switches

Feb 22, 2008 | Jenn-Air JED8230 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

Oven and stove top not getting hot.


The most probable cause is that the heating elements are getting 110V instead of 220V. Check the voltage to the heating elements.

Sep 07, 2007 | Ovens

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