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if I am not mistaken, the coil has a little plastic clip where it plugins, inspect the clip for a tight fit, if there is any damage replacing clip should solve the problem. I would also check the ground on pcm at the number 3 pin
Run it with the vent off if you feel some heat for the first minute and the airflow is strong you best bet is to change the valve coils.The vent is not a part in the dryer the vent is was connects to the back of the dryer pull the vent off and run the dryer to test. The coils are on the top of the gas valve.
Gas dryer with no heat:The parts that I have pointed out with the arrows are the parts that you will need to check with an ohm meter if the dryer is not heating. First check and see if you have 110 volts coming to the gas valve at this type of a connector. If you have voltage, then unplug the dryer and check the parts I have pointed to. Some dryers have 3 coils instead of the 2 shown here. If you do not have voltage coming to the burner, then you will need to check the timer contacts that feed the gas burner, hi limit thermostat, operating thermostats, the safety switch on the motor, and any other point that you can see on your wiring diagram picture that feeds voltage to the burner. The coils on the gas valve are very bad for working once or twice and then quitting. If you find a open circuit on one of the gas coils, replace them all = less problems later on. If the glow coil does not work ( get red ), check it with a ohm meter for continuity. The next thing to check if the glow coil does not come on would be the radiant sensor. Inspect the igniter for small burnt spot on dark gray or black part of igniter or check for 110 volts to igniter wire plug when dryer should be calling for heat. Sometimes the ( older style ) igniter is separate from the holder and the holder can no longer hold the igniter tight enough and the two parts burn/arcwhere they touch each other = new igniter and holder ( some manufactures have new kits to replace these older style parts ). Does the igniter get red and stay red, or does it get red, you hear a click and it goes off, then a minute later its gets red again?....if so you possibly have a bad set of coil valves. If the igniter gets red and stays red constantly then its the flame switch that is bad and maybe welded closed. -------------- Check out, this possibilities.This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
I only have a couple suggestions. Double, double,double check the ignition wires. More often than not, they will be place in the wrong firing order. If have done that and problem persist, replace all the ignition wires withnew, and double check the wiring order. I'd be interested to know if this is the same symptoms it had prior to you replacing the plugs or after? Good luck
If you do have fuel pressure, but there is no fuel getting into the cylinders to run the engine, then the engine does not have an injector signal or pulse to open the fuel injectors.
The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.
That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.
If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.
To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.
The coil is probably breaking down internally when the heat rises. The only other possibility is the electronic ignition going bad. Have a dealer check the bike before spending bucks on a new coil when the old one may actually be good.