I Have a Whirpool Microwave Oven Combo Model RMC305PDQ1 sometime when the oven is cooking the oven latch closed and we can;t open

Hello,

This is a safety feature of the oven. When the oven cools down you should be able to unlatch and open the oven. I accidentally did this (closed the latch) when cooking a pizza, fortunately I turned to oven off and the pizza did not burn.

I hope this helps.

microwave light is burned out. Need a replacement. What part # is it and can I order it online?

Hi,

oven door not closing::

There are a number of reasons why you may find that your oven door won't close properly, and troubleshooting oven doors is not too complicated, so you should be able to manage this in a few hours. When you are trying to decide what is the cause of your oven door not shutting properly, you should be able to identify the different problems, and also understand how to repair the door without too much difficulty. If you find a lot of problems, then you may need to provide a different solution, for example replacing the door and fittings completely.
Latch is Broken This is perhaps the most common cause of the oven door not closing properly. The latch is supposed to connect to a hole in the oven itself, but sometimes the latch can become stuck, and it may also be improperly greased. If the latch is sticking, then you should try adding a drop of oil, and trying again. Other reasons for the latch not closing properly include dirt being trapped in the hole on the other side, or the latch itself being cracked and not fitting correctly into the hole. The latch can also be completely replaced if you find that you have repeated problems with it.


No heat but otherwise normal operation If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse. Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.
A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:

• Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section: See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  
• Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms. See the section: Testing thermal protectors and thermal fuses.
  
• Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  
• Open HV capacitor - see the section: Testing the high voltage capacitor. A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately blow the fuse.
  
• Open HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  
• Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem. See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  
• Open winding in HV transformer. See the section: Testing the high voltage transformer.
  
• Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
  
• Shorted HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  
• Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section: Testing the magnetron.
  
• Short in certain portions of the HV wiring. See the section: Testing and repairing the wiring and connections.

A shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.)
Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.
Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation This means the controller thinks the oven is working but the microwave generator AND motors aren't being powered. Note that these symptoms are subtly different than just having no heat and eliminates the actual components of the microwave generator from suspicion in most cases.


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Hi,

Yes you could clean it.

Check few details :-

t the bottom of this post you will find the web address for your ranges manual and the self clean system is in side this manual.

How to self clean
If your model has a door latch, never force the latch handle. Forcing the handle will damage the door lock mechanism.
The oven door must be closed and all controls set correctly for the cycle to work properly.
Before a Clean Cycle
For the first self-clean cycle, we recommend
venting your kitchen with an open window
or using a ventilation fan or hood.
Remove any broiler pan, broiler grid, all
cookware, probe and any aluminum foil
from the oven—they cannot withstand the
high cleaning temperatures.
NOTE:
If your oven is equipped with nickel oven
shelves, remove them before you begin
the self-clean cycle.
If your oven is equipped with gray
porcelain-coated oven shelves, they may
be left in the oven during the self-clean
cycle.
Soil on the front frame of the range and
outside the gasket on the door will need to
be cleaned by hand. Clean these areas with
hot water, soap-filled scouring pads or
cleansers such as Soft Scrub®. Rinse well
with clean water and dry.
Do not clean the gasket. The fiberglass
material of the oven door gasket cannot
withstand abrasion. It is essential for the
gasket to remain intact. If you notice it
becoming worn or frayed, replace it.
Wipe up any heavy spillovers on the oven
bottom.
Make sure the oven light bulb cover is in
place and the oven light is off.
IMPORTANT: The health of some birds
is extremely sensitive to the fumes given
off during the self-cleaning cycle of any
range. Move birds to another well ventilated
room.
NOTE: Use caution when opening the upper
oven after the self-clean cycle has ended.
The oven may still be hot.

How to Set the Upper Oven for Cleaning
On models with Gas/Control Lockout,
touch and hold the Gas/Control Lockout
pad for 3 seconds to turn it off.
NOTE: The surface burners must be turned
off prior to the self-clean start time.
If your model has a latch, latch the door.
Touch the Self Clean pad.
Using the number pads, enter the
desired clean time, if a time other than
4 hours is needed.
Clean cycle time is normally 4 hours. You can
change the clean time to any time between
3 hours and 5 hours, depending on how dirty
your oven is.
Touch the Start pad.
On models without a door latch, the door
locks automatically. The display will show
the clean time remaining. It will not be
possible to open the oven door until the
temperature drops below the lock
temperature and the LOCKED DOOR
light goes off.
The oven shuts off automatically when the
clean cycle is complete.
When the LOCKED DOOR light is off,
slide the latch handle to the left as far
as it will go and open the door. If your
range does not have a latch, the door
will unlock automatically.
The words LOCK DOOR will flash and
the oven control will signal if you set
the clean cycle and forget to close the
oven door or forget to latch the door
on models with a latch.
To stop a clean cycle, touch the Clear/Off
pad. When the LOCKED DOOR light goes
off, indicating the oven has cooled below
the locking temperature, unlatch the door
(on models with a latch) and open the door
The oven door must be closed and all controls set correctly for the cycle to work properly.

How to Delay the Start of Cleaning
Make sure the clock shows the correct time
of day.
On models with Gas/Control Lockout,
touch and hold the Gas/Control Lockout
pad for 3 seconds to turn it off.
NOTE: The surface burners must be turned
off prior to the self-clean start time.
If your model has a latch, latch
the door.
Touch the Self Clean pad.
Using the number pads, enter the
desired clean time.
Touch the Delay Start pad. The earliest
start time you can set will appear in the
display.
Using the number pads, enter the time
of day you want the clean cycle
to start.
Touch the Start pad.
On models without a door latch, the door
locks automatically. The display will show the
start time. It will not be possible to open the
oven door until the temperature drops below
the lock temperature and the LOCKED DOOR
light goes off.
The oven shuts off automatically when the
clean cycle is complete.
When the LOCKED DOOR light is off,
slide the latch handle to the left as far
as it will go and open the door. If your
range does not have a latch, the door
will unlock automatically.
The words LOCK DOOR will flash and the
oven control will signal if you set the clean
cycle and forget to close the oven door or
forget to latch the door on models with
a latch.
To stop a clean cycle, touch the Clear/Off
pad. When the LOCKED DOOR light goes
off, indicating the oven has cooled below
the locking temperature, unlatch the door
(on models with a latch) and open the door.


After a Clean Cycle
You may notice some white ash in the oven.
Wipe it up with a damp cloth after the
oven cools.
If white spots remain, remove them with a
soap-filled scouring pad and rinse thoroughly
with a vinegar and water mixture.
These deposits are usually a salt residue
that cannot be removed by the clean cycle.
If the oven is not clean after one clean cycle,
repeat the cycle.
You cannot set the oven for cooking until
the oven is cool enough for the door to
unlock.
While the oven is self-cleaning, you can
touch the Clock pad to display the time
of day. To return to the clean countdown,
touch the Cooking Time pad.
If the shelves become hard to slide, apply a
small amount of vegetable oil or cooking oil
to a paper towel and wipe the edges of the
oven shelves with the paper towel.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

turn off the main power outlet it will work.

take the trim off of the microwave and on the top of the oven on the right side all the way in the back there should be a reset button just like a surge protector.

try wiggling the door latch to get it open if not try the cleaning process, if that works, and see if the door comes unlatched and the light goes off. if not the lock light switch is stuck and it will need to be taken apart and cleaned

Have had this oven for 8 years. At least three times, usually after using the clean cycle in the main oven, the latch mechanism has broke and the oven door will not open. In March they installed a 'new design' to prevent this. It's seven months later, and it broke again. Has anyone had similar experiences? How did you resolve?

The micorwave oven light does not work and when I push start, the word DOOR shows on the screen and beeps 3 times. The oven will not start.

is this model mounted over the oven as one piece unit?or does it hang above the stove?