Question about Apple M2454 Monitor

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I have a Apple Cube and with it a M2454 monitor. The supporting leg on the monitor has been snapped off during transport and the metal connector has been left inside the monitor connection part..... can this item be replaced/ repaired cheaply/easy?

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Apple has discontinued service parts for this particular display.
You could try www.welovemacs.com, however M2453 displays can be purchase cheaply on ebay so I doubt it would be worth the expense.

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Dess inspiron 531 will not power up


Let's start with diagnosing whether the problem is the Power On switch, or the Power Supply.

The test does not involve the Power On switch. You are going to bypass the switch.


Dell Support > Inspiron 531s Desktop PC > Owner's Manual,

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/insp531s/en/OM/html/index.htm

Removing and Installing Parts > System Board Components,

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/insp531s/en/OM/html/parts.htm#wp1184332

[Removing and Installing Parts section also has, Removing the Computer Cover ]

View where Number 8 points to.
main power connector (ATX_POWER)

It is a whitish connector with 24 socket holes.
The 24-pin ATX main power connector on the motherboard.
You will see something more like this,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

[Photo to the Right. Note color of connectors does NOT matter ]

See the Green wire? That is the Soft Power On wire. Abbreviated as PS_ON.
{Power Supply On }

ALL the Black wires you see are Ground wires. You are going to briefly jump the Green wire to ANY Black wire.
The preferred jumper wire is a paper clip.

The paper clip is straightened out, then bent into a U-shape.
The middle of the U is wrapped a few times, with black plastic electrical tape.
This taped area is for your fingers and thumb to hold onto.

The U shape is turned upside down. The 'legs' are what is used to go down into socket holes, with the Green wire, and ANY Black wire.

Viewing the photo to the right, note the wires going down into the squarish socket holes.
One 'leg' of the U-shaped jumper wire, goes down into the socket hole with the Green wire, and RIGHT NEXT TO THE wire.

Slides down past the green insulation of the wire, and touches a metal terminal. Every power wire going into that connector, ends in a metal terminal. Looks like this,

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0002081202_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US

You can see the front of them in the middle photo. Brass looking with a small hole in the center.
You MUST make sure the leg of the jumper wire, goes down into the socket hole far enough, that it touches the metal terminal. It is pretty far down in there.

Power supply plugged into power, taped portion of U-shaped jumper wire held, guide one leg into the green socket hole, and the other leg into any black wire socket hole.

[Shock? The Soft Power On wire {Green wire } is 5 Volts DC.
In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries store 3 Volts DC.
However there may be a spark. Just warning you so you don't freak out. lol! }

The contact period mad is no more than 2 seconds.
IF, the Power Supply comes on, you have a bad Power On switch.

IF, the Power Supply does NOT come on, you have a bad Power Supply.

Example of an ATX power on switch,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

[The Power On button is a plastic assembly. A type of ATX power on switch is installed inside. The above example is used in a LOT of desktop computers ]

If you need guidance in replacing your Power Supply, post back in a Comment.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
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The reason it's out of balance is because the skate plate shoes are worn out and need to be replaced. You'll have to access the washer in order to do this. There's a video available that shows how to do it.

After you have opened up the washer you'll see that the tub is sitting on a three legged pedestal. The shoes are in between the skate plate and the top of the pedestal. Here's a picture (and part number) to illustrate...

bc62875.jpg

Do one shoe at a time by lifting the skate plate off of the pedestal about an inch or so and wedging it there (I use a hammer handle as a wedge). The shoes simply snap into place, so the old ones will have to be snapped out of place first. Use another hammer and tap the shoes out of their sockets from underneath.

NOTE! ---> When you place the new shoe into its' place DO NOT try to snap it in!!! (if you do, you'll break it) Just let it rest in it's place for now. Remove your wedge and allow the full weight of the tub to sit on it. Then move on to the next shoe and repeat.

After all 3 shoes have been replaced it's time to snap them in completely. Do this from the top of the tub. Using your body weight, press down on the tub from above on all three corners (where the shoes are located). This will apply even pressure to the top of the shoe and keep it from breaking. You should have all 3 snapped in now. Use a flashlight and look underneath to verify (you should see the tabs of the shoes poking all the way through the pedestal).

Now all that's left is to rebuild the washer cabinet and start some laundry!

SG

p.s. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but this job can be done easily within an hour and the parts only cost ~$12.00!


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Ok…

I had the same problem with a Bose separated double-cube Acoustimass speaker/array but was able to fix it as follows:

Tools:
small, thin, flat-head screwdriver
large pliers
C-clamp

Instructions:
1. Disconnect the speaker wires from the cube.
2. Remove the grille from the top speaker cube. It just pops off.
3. Insert a small, thin, flat-head screwdriver around the perimeter of the speaker. You will have to pry lightly to break the glue’s seal.
4. Using a set of pliers (large, plumber-sized) wiggle the speaker until it comes free. You might need to grip it top to bottom and then left to right. The speaker will come free of the case.
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7. Using the C-clamp, compress the brace/connector until it seats on one side. Loosen the C-clamp and compress the opposite side. The brace/connector should snap into place. Be sure the make sure that you do not pinch the speak wires that are running through the center of the brace/connector.
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You should be good to go.

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