Sure. But if your homemade gasket leaks try a little 100% silicone caulking. It smells bad for an hour or so but it will help. If you use the silicon make sure you allow it to thoroughly dry before you get it wet or it "will" leak.
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I took my humidifier apart to see what was wrong with it and saw the carbon electrodes were caked with salt deposits. While cleaning them off, one of the electrodes broke about halfway down. I noticed the electrodes were hollow - about a 3/16" diameter hole down the middle. I found a small diameter screw from a toggle bolt assemble, cut the head of the screw off, cut the remaining threaded piece to about an inch long and used it to splice together the broken carbon electrode. I reasoned that the steel piece is only touching the carbon pieces, and not the wire leads, it should be ok/safe resistance-wise. I put everything back together again, and voila, the unit worked!
theholts220 - Sounds like they needed to install a bit larger transformer . You can also buy a A 50 Sensing relay that attaches to the wires for your motor and when you turn on the furnace it will allow the power to go to the humidistat. Very strange though they do not use a lot of power. Check and make sure the wires are not pinched or touching metal somewhere.
TLuzzo - The humidistat seems to be working when you turn it down. The wires for the solenoid should be hooked up to your furnace circuit board. The instruction manual will tell you where. If you dont have a spot on your circut board the A 50 sensing reley is they way to go. They are inexpensive
This type of humidifer is known as a flow through humidifer, when running water flows through it instead of sitting in a pan. The water draining is normal. This type of humidifer will use more water than a pan type but is much healthier due to the fact that you do not get all the build up of the pan type if you ever cleaned one. also change the water panel every year. to change the water panel there will be 2 screws on the bottom pan. Remove them and the panel will come out, buy a replacement at home depot or such store if available, otherwise from a htg company. Replacement is a little tricky to get it to line up so be patient. If you cant remove the bottom panel due to lack of room, it will come out through the top. You will have to loosen and swing the water feed tube out of the way. That is the only maintainace to this humdifier. Also with this humidifier all you have to do is turn the humidistat to off in the summer, you do not have to turn off the water as with float types. Steve
Check if the cap has a gasket or o-ring and is not worn. There are two designs for this model. The older model has the fill cap and valve together. The new design the fill cap and valve are at different locations. The new design has no hole in the bottom of the unit. You can fixed the problem using a 1-1/2 inch washer for brass tubular found in the plumbing isles in HD or L. The rubber washer is 1 or 2 mm smaller then the grooves in the fill/valve cap. You can stretch the washer and it will fit perfectly in the grooves. When putting the fill/valve cap back with the washer, it will be tighter then before. Firmly turn and you should not have any leaks and make sure unit is level. You can plug the hole because the new design does not have a hole in the bottom of the unit.
Mine dried out too. I could not find where to get the rubber valve seal for the tanks. Holmes does not list the part and when I called the rep told me they didid not stock the part. I solved my problem by purchasing thin rubber washers from Lowe's. They are 3/16 X 1 1/4 X 1/16 thick. The 3/16 hole in the center "snaps" on over the end of the plastic plunger just like the original. I had to trim the outside diameter with scissors to about 1" or using the old ones as a guide. Cost me $0.67