Question about Miele Dryers
I require the specification for Miele T6251 Sensor Tumble Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: My Miele T8322 Tumble dryer
IS THE DRYER PUSHED UP AGAINST THE VENTING IN THE BACK OF THE DRYER? IT MAY BE CRIMPING THE EXHAUST MATERIAL CAUSING A RESTRICTION.
IF THAT IS O.K., DISCONNECT THE EXHAUST AND RUN A LOAD OF LAUNDRY THROUGH A NORMAL DRY CYCLE.
IF THE DRYER DRIES THAT LOAD O.K., THERE IS A RESTRICTION SOMEWHERE IN THE EXHAUST. ALSO, CHECK THE LINT TRAP. IF THERE IS A WHITE CLOUDY FILM ON THE LINT FILTER, TAKE A WIRE BRUSH AND CLEAN IT OFF. IT IS RESTRICTING THE AIR FLOW AT THE FILTER.
CHECK THE LINT FILTER HOUSING FOR A BUILD UP OF LINT. IF THERE IS, USE A CENTER CARDBOARD FROM WRAPPING PAPER ATTACHED TO THE END OF THE VACUUM HOSE. FLATTEN THE CARDBOARD TO FIT INTO THE FILTER SLOT AND CLEAN OUT THE LINT.
Posted on Apr 22, 2008
The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.
Posted on Oct 15, 2009
SOURCE: miele novotronic T640 about 9/10
There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...
The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...
Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...
Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning
Dryer Repair ? The dryer will not start
Posted on Aug 29, 2010
SOURCE: my miele 4322 vent tumble
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape and running the dryer to check to see if the element is red or not,
or with an ohm meter check the two terminals of the thermostat/thermister
after you have removed the wires, the thermostat/thermistor should have/show continuity across the terminals.
If the coil heats up, or the thermostat/thermistor shows an open circut
then replace the thermostat/thermistor as it is defective.
If it overheats the dryer will not operate properly.
It's located on the blower housing.
It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
You can test it with an Ohm meter/continuity checker, if no continuity,
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website, it will give you an idea what you are in for:
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Posted on Jan 06, 2011
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