I have got a new kenwood 350w amp and 1200w sub, and have wired everything as per instructions, but had a spark jump from the power cable to the ground cable, will this affect anything?
I have a DEH1050E pioneer cd tuner and have connected the rca plugs to the jacks, and getting no sound, is there anything else to be done? and does the power control jack on the amp need to be wired in to work the sub?
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Re: nothing working! please help!
No it doesnt HAVE to be wired in it just lets you control the amount of output from the sub. however the spark could have blown out the internal workings of the amp. there are genereally multiple fuses on car amps. have you checked these? if they are blown replace and reinstall if not then it very would could be that the spark caused the amp to fry.
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the premier amp is better since it has a better rms rating (360w total or 160w each sub) than the eclipse (280w if you bridge all 4 channels which isn't possible but 140w for each speaker bridging 2 channels per speaker). Neither are going to push your subs but if you get another amp wiring kit and use one amp per sub they will sound a lot better and you could just hook both power wire and ground wires from the bridged channels to the power and ground terminals for the sub. That would be my suggestion since the subs are rated at 350w and each amp is 280w and 320w which will push but not blow the subs.
Sony is not a bad brand if you use it correctly... This is what is happening my friend. You are what is called "clipping" your amplifier. What you need to do is make sure you are running your subs at the correct impedance or also known as resistance. Then make sure you are running them at the correct frequency, there is a turn tab on the amp to match the sub to the amp. Then never never turn the gain all the way up. This over works the amp and will wear it out much faster. This also does not actually give more power to the subs it just gains the power sooner then later. Never turn the gain more then half way up.. Hope this can step you in the correct direction my friend.
The Kenwood KAC-6202 2-channel is only rated for 60 watts RMS per channel into a 4 ohm load. That just isn't much power for a pair of 12" subs. Even the bridged output is only 200 watts into 4 ohms, still at the low end for a sub, much less to share between a pair of subs.
Assuming that your subs are 4 ohm, you could probably get more sound by driving just one of them on the bridged terminals. But to get the best power with what you have, connect one sub to each channel, set the filter switch to the far right (LPF), set the operation switch to stereo (both channels driven), set the filter frequency (Hz) to 100 or lower, and adjust the input sensitivity as far clockwise as possible without causing distortion.
But, to do the subs justice, you really need at least 300-400 watts to share between them.
Your KAC-5204 amp is only rated to put out 60 watts per channel and really cannot push very hard. If your subs are the KFC-W110S, they are 8ohm subs and you will get better power from the amp by using the bridged connections, positive (+) on the left channel and negative (-) on the right channel. Wire both positives and both negatives from both subs to the bridged connections and the output will be 150 watts into 4ohms. Giving each sub 75 watts should make them push a little harder.
Check the fuses-should be a pair of 30 amps on the side. use a paper clip and jump power from the power+ to the remote+ and see if that lights it up-if it does than your remote lead isnt giving it juice-
bignatedabal: You can't get something more out of a device than it's rating. In other words, if you have a 400W amp that's all it's going to produce. For example if you're looking to drive both sub spkrs @ 350W each then buy a sub amp with a rating of 700W @ 2ohms & connect your 4ohm spkrs in parallel to the amp. Each spkr will produce 350W of sound if everything is installed correctly.
1 thing to look for in amp mfg's. Look for those who rate their amps in RMS power. This is the true output rating. Many amps are rated in peak-to-peak which seems great but doesn't tell you the real story, unless you know how to do the math to determine the RMS. The better mfg's will take the time to test their amps & rate them properly. Also look for massive heatsinking (the cooling fins). I consider cooling fans to be a benefit as well.
How you wire it depends on how hard you want drive your amp. If your woofer runs 4ohm per coil I would wile it in series (amp +to sub +1 sub -1to sub +2 amp - to sub -2) then run it for a week and see if it has enough power. the lower your Impedance (the resistance load on the amp) the harder your amp works and more THD (noise) is produced. (Dclass amps aren't know for being clean to begin with) configured like this your amp will see 8ohms and sound the clean east. if this turns out to be not enough power wire it in parallel and double the output. wire amp + to sub +1 and +2 then amp - to sub -1 and -2.
A word to the wise... start with your volume very low and work up slowly most speakers will puk up the voice coil before the amp starts to get warmed up. you would hate to have to buy a new sub.
you can simply take the input and connect it in parallel to the input of the second amplifier. The output of one amp will go to one speaker, and the output of the other amp will go to the other speaker.
The inputs of amplifiers are "high impedance" so putting more than one in parallel won't put any strain on the radio circuit.
The problem would be if you had it switched around. The 1200W subwoofer only means that it can handle 1200w of power the 1000w amp means that it can deliver 1000w of power. What you may have is an impedance mismatch. My question is what is the resistance rating on the sub woofer and what is the minimum resistance rating of the amplifier. These are actully the important issues at hand.
the rating of the subwoofer resistance in Ohms should never be lower then the minimum resistance rating on the amplifier. in fact the resistance rating on the amp should match the resistance rating on the subwoofer.