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Posted on Feb 18, 2009

Whirlpool RM280PXAQO power loss to one leg of bake element

Whirlpool RM280PXAQO  Wiring to the bake element has one leg with 110v and 0 volts on the other leg.   Wiring checks out OK from element to relay.  Is the relay the problem ???  Replacement part ???

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  • Posted on Feb 21, 2009
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Remove leads from heater and carry out resistance test to see if heater is ok. you have checked the voltage so presume you have a meter.if not test voltage on both sides of heater connect directly to ground and other lead on ground of heater you should have a voltage if not you have a ground fault

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How to test for Electrical power

<p>Be absolutely certain the power is turned off before you begin. To do this, check the clock, timer and oven light, and examine the heating elements on all settings. If any of these components operate, you have power. If a wiring problem has short-circuited one leg of the circuit you may have 110 volts but not 220. This means the oven light, clock, and some heating elements may operate on low, but not on high. It also means you have power and could get a jolt. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!<br /> <p>Once you are confident the oven has no power it is time to establish if the problem is the house wiring or the oven itself. Check the housebreaker or fuse and then test for power where it enters the oven. If there is a 220-volt wall plug, disconnect the fuse or turn the breaker off, then pull the oven away from the wall and pull the plug. Turn the breaker back on and test the wall outlet. Also check the terminal block, located just inside the back of the unit. This is where the main power cord attaches to the oven circuitry.<br /> <p>If your oven is wired directly into the house, the wiring will be connected to the terminal block. Follow the steps above and while the power is off, locate the three-wire terminal block and inspect it for signs of damage, overheating, or melted terminals. Some installations have 4 wires. The 4th wire is a ground for the cabinet. Ensure all wiring is clear and remember <b>not to touch</b> bare wires or terminals. To check the terminals for power, turn the breaker or fuse on briefly and check the terminal block for power across all three legs. Then remove the power at the breaker fuse.<br /> <p>If the terminal block is receiving power, then the problem is within the oven and you will need to isolate the problem using the wiring diagram, found on the back of the oven in a plastic pouch, or on the back or inside the oven near the broiler.<br /> <p>If the terminal block is not receiving power, your house wiring may be the problem. Should this be the case, you will need to call an electrician.<br /> <p><br /> <p>REMEMBER YOU ARE WORKING WITH 220 VOLTS - USE EXTREME CAUTION!!!<br />
on Jan 04, 2011 • Microwave Ovens
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I AM GETTING ELECTRICITY TO THE 220 PLUG AND THROUGH THE 220 PLUG WIRE TO THE STOVE JUNCTION BOX. THE STOVE TOP AND OVEN HEATING ELEMENTS ARE NOT HEATING UP BUT THE INDICATOR LIGHTS FOR BOTH ELEMENTS SHOW...

The indicator lights operate on 120 volts whereas the elements operate on 220 volts.
Using an electrical test meter go between the two hot legs and see if you are getting 220 volts. If not you have an open or non completed circuit.
Do not test from one leg to ground as you will probably read 120 volts for each leg. By reading across both legs you should get 220 volts.
0helpful
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After a kitchen remodel my stove top is getting power but the burners are not working. What should I look for in my wiring? Thanks

Hi,
It is possible only one of the hot wires is still hooked up ....then it couild look like you have power nut the 240v power is not there for the heating elements... only the 110v power to the controls...

Check for 240v power at the back of the unit where the power enters...

heatman101
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7answers

My old GE oven (JSP38G052BG) won't bake or broil. It start then stop after 1 or 2 minutes. The heating elements get worm. Can you help me please

Hello ediben11.

If your oven's bake or the broiler heating elements won't heat but the range burners still work;the clock may be set for a timed or self-cleaning cycle. So,make sure to check the clock buttons and the knobs are set properly.
*If your clock has a knob that says "push for manual" then push the knob in after that, try the baking and broiling elements again.

*If it still does not work properly, you may have a defect in the thermostat/selector switch/common wiring.

*If the oven does not have a separate bake or broil selector switch; then the thermostat is probably the problem. It is not easy to check the selector switch or thermostat for proper operation. If you suspect a problem in this area, call a qualified appliance repair technician.

Hope this helps.


1helpful
2answers

Microwave not heating

In all likelihood the Magnetron, or Power Diode has failed, or perhaps even the Power Supply. You need to have it serviced by a reputable service centre/man. Ensure you get a firm "Quote" before proceeding, and remember these days the cost of repair can equal or exceed the price of a new one.
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I have a 3 phase 24kw 60 cycles 240 volt vulcan hart el-40 kettle I replaced the heating element ( not sure what its called ) but I don't know which wires go where to the element

Hi, on a 3 phase wiring system, all 3 legs will be the same voltage unless it is the 25 year old 3- phase, which would have what was called the stinger leg which was higher in voltage. As on most any 208/230/240.277 volt 3-phase wiring system, L-1, L-2, and L-3, have the exact same voltage.It does not make any difference on any of the 3 hot Legs where they terminate on this element. If there are 3 termination points on this element, connect any of the 3 conductors to element. Trust me, as I deal with 3-phase daily.If you do have a 4th conductor by chance that you removed, you will need to check with a volt meter to see which 3 have 120 to ground and the 4th will have nothing to ground and would be some neutral. 3-phase wiring doesn't require a neutral. If you have any more questions please let me know and I will help you.This will solve you're question I am positive! Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
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No power. I changed fuse but microwave blows it immediately.

Be very careful! Standard microwaves have 2100volt capacitors and commercial ones 4000 volt capacitors.
*Decharge your capacitor(s) before doing diagnostics*.
You are now testing the high voltage side (as it works on convection). The main components are a transformer, a capacitor, a diode and a magnetron (havent seen a triac in a panasonic residential). If you have a proper meter that can test uf, decharge the capacitor, then test the capacitor, if it reads 0, you need a new capacitor (10$ used typically, 14$ new from ebay). To test the magnetron, decharge the capacitor first, remove the spade connections, test each leg to the frame of the microwave... if it shows measurable resistance, the magnetron is bad. The transformer is not something you test as I personally dont have a 4000 volt meter. If the diode, the magnetron and capacitor are okay, then the transformer is bad. To eliminate any other function, disconnect the low voltage to the transformer run a micropower cycle and check the fuse.
Hope that helps. My first instinct is the capacitor.
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Whirlpool MH7130XEB-1 blows 20a line fuse when I use the oven. no problems with any other functions of the microwave

hi,you need to check wires to the bake element or broil are not touching the metal case...check your power cord going into the back were the wires hook up...you have a direct short....check your switches carefully....i hope this helps....
0helpful
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Will i need a separate 110 circuit????? cannot use the 220v leg??

I would contact a few electricians for their opinions. Appliances like microwaves and ranges, etc. should be on separate circuits / breakers due to the high currents they draw.
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